As I spent 2009 combing the Napa Valley for great wines (the one definite perk of living here and being in the wine business), I decided to pay special attention to the Cabernets that were priced at $50 or less, hoping to compile a list of favorites. As I have already done with some of these wines, I hope to eventually put all of them into blind tastings alongside a few of their $100 counterparts, just to see how they fare against the big boys (I suspect that many of these lesser-priced wines will easily rise to the top). Anyhow, it took me pretty much all of last year, but I’ve finally encountered enough outstanding wine to begin a serious list, and so I’m now prepared to finally put my selections on record. To that end, I submit the following 10 wines, listed in order of preference…

• Martin Estate Bacchanal 2006 ($48) : One of the great unsung wines in the Napa Valley, I have already placed Bacchanal into a blind tasting of Oakville and Rutherford Cabs, pitting it against the 2006 Groth ($58), 2005 Rubicon ($175), 2006 Pedemonte ($39), 2006 Nickel & Nickel John C. Sullenger ($90), and 2006 Paradigm ($62). The Bacchanal won the tasting, with all five wine tasters ranking the wine in their top half, and one person choosing it as the overall favorite (oddly enough, all five tasters selected a different favorite in the flight, except for Groth, which was nobody’s favorite, and three people’s most-disliked wine). I had selected the Nickel & Nickel as my own personal favorite, although the Bacchanal was closely behind it. Frankly, Martin Estate is a winery that I have long meant to review, but simply haven’t yet.

• Terra Valentine Spring Mountain 2006 ($38) : In my previous review for Terra Valentine, I mentioned that the winery’s single-vineyard Cabs were the wines that originally drew me up to the top of Spring Mountain Road, but that their Spring Mountain Cabernet blend has now become my favorite Terra Valentine wine. This Cabernet features ripe, plush fruit with terrific character and concentration. If you’re spending a day visiting Spring Mountain wineries, make sure to visit Paloma and Behrens-Hitchcock, as well.

• 2006 Turnbull Estate ($45) : Flanked by Nickel & Nickel to the south and Cakebread Cellars to the north, I think that Turnbull is often overlooked by far too many of Napa’s tourists. My notes from my blind tasting of 2005 Oakville Cabernets revealed Turnbull as the clear winner (and the lowest-priced wine in the flight, to boot). One more reason to visit Turnbull: The winery also offers its 2007 Old Bull Red ($19), a tasty catch-all blend and one of the few good Napa reds that you can find for under $20.

• 2005 Heitz Cellars Estate ($42) : After living in the Napa Valley, I have found that the wineries with the greatest histories sometimes have the lowest prices. Many say that the old-timers have that conservative, farming mentality that will see them through good times and more importantly, bad times. The 2005 Heitz Estate Cabernet is an affable wine that boasts big ripe fruit, and I’m always amazed at how long Heitz holds back its releases (I can’t think of many other wineries that still offer a 2005 Cab as their most current vintage). As a result, these wines are often plush right out of the gate.

• 2006 Bennett Lane Maximus ($35) : Maximus is the perennial 90-point “Feasting Wine” that lures folks to drive all the way up to Calistoga, even during the height of summer. It’s bold in the way you might expect for the newly-designated Calistoga AVA, which typically does so well with hot-weather varietals like Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. My last tasting report for Bennett Lane was in December 2008. Although the winery has since discontinued its White Maximus, the proprietary red is still at its consistent best.

• 2007 Chappellet Signature ($42) : For those who have spent any time perusing the “Essay and Oddities” on the right, I have long championed Chappellet as one of the top five wineries in the Napa Valley. The winery, founded in 1967, has great history, a great view from Pritchard Hill, and great wine. With neighbors like Colgin and Bryant Family, Chappellet presents the best value, by far, along Sage Canyon Road. The winery also offers its terrific Mountain Cuvee ($29), which could’ve made this list on its own.

• 2006 Titus Vineyards ($41) : Chappellet winemaker Phillip Titus owns an eponymous wine label — Titus Vineyards — that also produces a noteworthy low-cost Cabernet. For me, this Cabernet exhibits some similar traits to Chappellet’s terrific estate Cab. Titus Vineyards is another winery that I’ve meant to review more recently, but have not found the time for a more thorough recap. Hopefully, I can coordinate something in the next month or so.

• 2007 Newton Claret ($25) : Another bargain from Spring Mountain Road, the Newton Claret is one of the lowest-priced bottles on the list. Keep in mind, you could actually purchase two full-sized bottles of the Newton Claret, yet still remain within the $50 or less level (impressive). As with Chappellet, the quality of Newton’s lower-priced wine reflects the overall quality of the winery’s portfolio. Newton wines are always a pleasure to drink, and their Red Label Cabernet ($28) is also an over-achiever. Like Bennett Lane’s Maximus, the 2007 Claret is technically a Bordeaux blend, and not an official Cabernet.

• 2006 Dare ($34) : The second label of Viader, the Dare series offers 100% varietal bottlings of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, and Tempranillo, each at the same price. The Dare Cabernet features fantastic pedigree, combining fruit from Viader’s Howell Mountain Estate and from the historic Lewelling Vineyard in St. Helena. I tasted these wines very recently, on the same day as my trip to Ladera.

• 2007 Vincent Arroyo Estate ($36) and 2007 J.J.’s Blend ($20) : Although the strength of Vincent Arroyo lies in its single-vineyard Petite Sirahs, the winery earns kudos for offering a legitimate giant-killer of a Cabernet (and the only wine on the list at less than 14% alcohol), as well as its lighter and less-expensive counterpart (which takes its name from one of the winery’s resident Labradors). The winery remains one of the Napa Valley’s best-kept secrets.

Could it get any more Southern?

Earlier this week, I had planned to visit Brenda’s French Soul Food for a bowl of grillades and grits, having recently emailed a friend about a memorable version of this dish that I once tasted at Cafe Degas in New Orleans. That email awakened a latent craving, and naturally, I thought of Brenda’s as the best and only choice for authentic Cajun cuisine in the Bay Area. Fast forward to yesterday: I left Napa shortly after the morning rush hour, and 50 miles later, I was standing on Polk Street, waiting for a table outside Brenda’s tiny 40-seat dining room. Although the sun was shining, the San Francisco air was chilly that morning, with a stiff breeze channeling through the streets and alleyways — the perfect day for a hot, starchy bowl of grits.

The wait at Brenda’s brings some anticipation, as one might expect. As folks exited the restaurant (each group of diners looking fully content, by the way), the door would bellow out this warm, deliciously fragrant kitchen aroma. It was such a tease for those of us waiting outside, and everyone inside the restaurant looked quite smug with their generous portions of breakfast, brunch and lunch. It was only during my wait outside that I decided to order the shrimp and grits, having noticed the daily specials written on Breanda’s sidewalk sandwich board. Although it presented a slight change in plans from my intended grillades and grits, the shrimp were prepared in a tomato-bacon gravy, which I absolutely had to try.

After fifteen minutes, my name was called, and I was in. I ordered a watermelon iced tea, the crawfish beignets, and of course, a bowl of shrimp and grits. The house-made watermelon iced tea is just one example of how Brenda’s is able to nail all of the smaller details. It’s just barely sweet, and the watermelon flavor comes through nicely on the finish. It’s a thoughtful alternative to regular iced tea (also offered), and for me, the sign of truly native Southern palate. The food, of course, is what really packs them in (and makes them wait). You’ll read plenty about the crawfish beignets online: I enjoyed them, but will request a side of remoulade next time, just because I think that would be even tastier. As for the main event, the shrimp and grits were profoundly good, decadent but not over-the-top with the cheese, with a red gravy that delivered on its potential.

The Chicken and Dumplings @ Long Meadow Ranch's Farmstead Restaurant

I had debated briefly whether or not to dine at LMR’s Farmstead Restaurant last Friday night: On one hand, the space has been open for less than one month, and Friday nights can often be unpredictable, even for the most established hot spots. I wondered if enough of the kinks had been ironed out already, or if I would’ve been spending my money foolishly at this point (after all, these restaurant reviews aren’t bankrolled). On the other hand, the end of winter is a relatively slow time here in the Napa Valley, and Farmstead seemed to have successfully battled through Valentine’s Day Weekend without any trouble (as far as I knew). I weighed both sides carefully.

As I’ve mentioned here before, I’m typically prone to grant any new restaurant one full month to get things on track. Starting a restaurant from scratch is challenging, to say the least, with everyone having to learn the menu and the wine list for the very first time, plus learning to deal with the quirks of all new co-workers. It can be quite a bit to process, which is why I would never pass any negative judgment on a restaurant during its first month. But since ThirstyReader.com has been getting hammered with so many Farmstead-related searches, I also wanted to follow up with some current first-hand info. I decided to head upvalley for a simple cheeseburger, just to satisfy my curiosity.

I should mention right off the top that the service at Farmstead was fine — I had been hasty to foster any doubts. The kitchen and waitstaff seem to have settled into a comfortable cadence. As for the food, it was also well-executed, with some interesting twists. The cheeseburger, for instance, which comes standard with arugula and shredded (not melted) white cheddar cheese, features another standard element that I have never before seen on a burger: pickled cauliflower relish. It actually took me a couple bites to notice it, but then I spotted a tiny rogue cauliflower floret on my plate. It was probably the last thing I expected to see, and I so inspected the cheeseburger more carefully. Sure enough, there were even more little cauliflower florets between the burger patty and the bottom bun. It was a bit of a mind bender.

I’m typically against cauliflower in general, but when it’s pickled into oblivion, I don’t mind it as much. And I can see where Farmstead chef Sheamus Feeley is going with this approach: Since there are no actual pickles on the burger, the cauliflower provides that same flavor profile. Frankly, even though I still think it’s a little odd, I’m all for it, although I still think a regular pickle is more “fundamentally” correct. I will admit, however, that the cauliflower florets presented a crunchy textural element that no dill pickle chip could ever match. Even so, I’m not ready to rally around cauliflower as the new standard garnish for a cheeseburger. Not now, not ever.

Aside from the burger itself, the accompanying fried new potatoes were also unique, although incredibly well-executed, to the degree that I was pleasantly surprised (that’s asking a lot from a meager potato). I tried to deconstruct their preparation, and I suspect that these little spuds are oven-roasted long before they are deep-fried, which would allow them to become delicately crispy, yet perfectly cooked through (which they were). As an added touch, the potatoes are fried alongside a garnish of leafy herbs for some added depth. Each little potato is crispy and addictive, like a little round french fry (personally, I don’t particularly care for Farmstead’s house-made ketchup, but these potatoes don’t require any condiments).

• • •

I hate running restaurant reviews without photos, but it was way too dark to snap any pictures of the Farmstead cheeseburger (on a side note, the restaurant is beautifully designed, although the large open dining room could prove noisy at peak times). And thus, I decided last week to return in a few days, during daylight hours, to try the chicken and dumplings (pictured above). As I had hoped, this dish was rich and satisfying — great comfort food — especially for a cool winter afternoon. The dumplings themselves were pillow-soft and delicate, while the broth was perfectly seasoned, light, yet flavorful.

For better or worse, the creamy macaroni (barely pictured above, in the upper right corner) was extremely cheddary in its execution. For a cheese sauce, I personally lean more towards the Gruyere end of the spectrum, less sharp and more mild (my ideal blend would probably be two-thirds Gruyere, cut with one-third San Joaquin Gold). I suspect that the same California white cheddar that garnishes the cheeseburger might also be the main ingredient in the cheese sauce. Although I enjoyed this cheddary element on the burger, the side of creamy macaroni is not something I would necessarily revisit. Some people may enjoy it, but I’ll be trying something different next time around.

I have all kinds of stories simmering on the back-burners right now, including my first impressions of Long Meadow Ranch’s Farmstead Restaurant in St. Helena (this restaurant review will be the very next item published on this site — stay tuned). Also, before we get too far into springtime, I want to share my own personal recipe for Cajun red beans and rice, which I’ve carefully developed over the years (and from about half a dozen vintage New Orleans cookbooks — more about those, as well). Plus, for sentimental reasons, I’m also planning a review of the venerable House of Prime Rib on Van Ness in San Francisco. And then last but not least, I’ve got some results from a couple blind tastings of Napa Cabernet. Anyhow, I will eventually get to all of these items.

For now, I recently purged my digital camera, and I gathered a few photos that never made the blog the first time around…

This mossy rock was photograhped at the Botanical Garden in San Francisco. I spend a lot of time in the park, since it’s a cheap and peaceful way to kill time between meals (otherwise, I’m headed to the cinema and trying not to order the large tub of popcorn).

• • •

This window treatment was photographed in Pittsburgh’s Strip District, right around the corner from Primanti Brothers. I attended a wedding in West Pennsylvania over the summer, and made sure to get a couple meals in the Steel City on my way out of town. Although I didn’t have a chance to eat at this particular restaurant, I liked the lines of this simple drawing. Out of context, the twirling pizza dough might be mistaken to mean infinity, which I also liked (pizza is greater than we are).

• • •

For those who have never visited Northern California, Caspers is a mini-chain hot dog stand with a handful of Bay Area locations. This building, which boasts an interior design that complements the overall architecture, is located on San Pablo Avenue in Albany (just a little north of Berkeley). The hot dogs themselves didn’t photograph that well, not that they weren’t tasty.

Having spent a decent portion of 2009 tasting the wines of Spring Mountain and Mount Veeder, it had been quite a while since I had made a trip up Howell Mountain Road. I suppose that my own personal biases had played a key factor in most of my tasting excursions for last year. I’ve discovered that, for the moment at least, Spring Mountain and Mount Veeder are probably my two favorite Napa appellations. To that end, if I were to recommend just one current release from each appellation, it would probably be the 2006 Terra Valentine Spring Mountain Cab ($38) and the 2005 Rubissow Mount Veeder Merlot ($50). Both wines are not only terrific, but they each capture the essence of their locations.

Ironically, my preference for Mount Veeder wines was actually confirmed at Ladera: Although I did really enjoy the 2006 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet, the wine that I took with me was the 2005 Ladera Lone Canyon Vineyard Cabernet ($65). Ladera’s Lone Canyon Vineyard is located on the southwestern flank of Mount Veeder, although not technically within the appellation itself. I have found that the best Mount Veeder Cabs remind me of super-ripe blueberries on the nose and palate, an association I first noticed with Lokoya’s Mount Veeder Cabernet. I felt that Ladera’s Lone Canyon Cab featured many of those same Mount Veeder markers. So much for reviving my interest in Howell Mountain.

At Viader, I revisited a winery that I had not reviewed since July 2008. Since I also hadn’t perused my tasting notes beforehand, it was practically like starting over, which can sometimes be interesting. The wines that really earned my attention last week were the 2006 Dare Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) and the 2003 Viader Proprietary Blend ($100). Dare is Viader’s second label, which features 100% varietal bottlings of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and (oddly enough) Tempranillo. Looking back on my tasting notes from 2008, I highlighted the 2004 Dare Cabernet Sauvignon as a great value wine, and I still feel the same way about the 2006 vintage. As for the 2003 Viader, I had first tasted it as the middle wine of a three-year vertical. At the time, I dismissed it (and the 2002 vintage, for that matter) as a runner-up to the 2004. Although I didn’t have the 2004 as a comparison last week, the 2003 Viader seems to have improved with age nonetheless. I thought it was elegant and complex.

From what I’ve heard, Erasto and Pablo Jacinto will shutter The Border, and they will open a new Mexican concept — called “Casa” — inside of the OxBow Market. Upon hearing these rumors, I can’t say that I’m all too surprised by the idea of The Border closing: (1) the economy has been troublesome, and the restaurant biz is already tough enough, (2) the online reputation of the restaurant was less than stellar and local word-of-mouth was non-existant, and (3) the site itself seems to be one of those inexplicably “doomed” locations (The Border was preceded by another generic and mundane-sounding restaurant, Tuscany).

I did like the mole negro that they served at The Border, though. It was one of Napa’s few examples of authentic Oaxacan-style cuisine, and I sincerely hope that it resurfaces at Oxbow. Anyhow, it was a short run; The Border will have lasted less than one calendar year, having made its debut on Cinco de Mayo Weekend, 2009. It will be interesting to see what new restaurant emerges in its place (I noticed the window panes were being painted on Tuesday). I’m crossing my fingers for Hooters. If not, I would love a place that could deliver a proper Cuban roast pork (with black beans and plantains).

• • •

As for Morimoto’s much-anticipated debut in Napa, you may remember that you heard the news here first. Subsequently, I have tons of juicy info about this project, but my source has sworn me to secrecy. The recent details transcend Napa, and so I have to oblige (as I did with the original news — I held mum on that scoop for months). I’ll ask permission to leak the news in the next few weeks (and hopefully get the green light).

I once had an English professor at UCLA who claimed that the purpose of being an English major was to learn how to write essays about books that you’ve never read. This comment was as cynical as it was correct: I winged way too many midterms on a plot summary and a prayer. Sometimes it worked, and sometimes it didn’t. Frankly, I was far more interested in devoting my time to the student newspaper, writing stories for a sports section that always garnered top national awards (I was surrounded by super-talented folks, and will only take a minimal share in this credit). I suppose my priorities could have been more academically-oriented, but seeing my byline in print just felt inherently more rewarding than reading the classics. Plus, I never really wanted to memorize Shakespeare, and I still don’t.

Over the last couple years, I’ve done a fair amount of book reviews on this site (and for what it’s worth, I have read every last one of these books). But in homage to the good old days of college life, I’m going to offer my review of “The Hedonist in the Cellar” without actually having read the book. Of course, I would never have included this detail on a college midterm, but I have no issue with divulging that info here. To that end, I should point out that I have read about one-third of the book. When I say that I didn’t read a lot of my textbooks at UCLA, I really meant that I just didn’t finish them. For the most part, I would read enough of the book to develop a sense of the writer’s style, but then my midterms would always arrive sooner than I would’ve liked, and I’d have to resort to CliffsNotes the night before the test.

And so that’s kind of where I am with “The Hedonist in the Cellar,” which I was breezing through fairly quickly until I decided to prepare for my CSW exam last year. As I resolved to begin studying more seriously, I decided to put the book on hold, and it’s been collecting dust on my nightstand ever since. Of course, since Jay McInerney’s book is actually a collection of essays, the text itself doesn’t demand to be read in any particular order, or within any sort of time-frame (what I like to call a good “bathroom reader”). Frankly, I’m fast-tracking this book review because I really wanted to comment on McInerney’s recent appointment as the new Wall Street Journal wine critic. Given the portion of “Hedonist” that I have read, I find this development very interesting and appealing.

To me, the WSJ has always been a unique wine resource, having built much of its reputation under the husband-and-wife duo of Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher (sidenote: “Open That Bottle Night” is on February 27th this year). The happy couple had penned their column in the Journal since 1998, which takes me back to a time in which I knew very little about wine. I feel that the “can’t-miss” economics of the dot-com boom prompted much of Generation X to begin reading the WSJ, at least occasionally, as “IPO” soon became the acronym on everyone’s lips. Subsequently, I think Gaiter and Brecher exposed many newly affluent Americans to the idea of wine as an approachable luxury, even if their advice may have been grounded in value. For me, the tandem certainly offered a unique voice, and Jay McInerney should as offer something similar.

The essays that I have read in 2006’s “Hedonist” have usually reminded me that McInerney is very much a writer first and a wine critic second. Perhaps his upcoming column in the Journal might take a different tack, but I sure hope not. It’s refreshing to read someone who eschews the 100-point system (I assume) and who approaches his craft with a little more gonzo creativity. McInerny has a great way of putting wine into a vivid context, which is something you almost never see in publications like Wine Spectator. Many of the leading wine magazines — with their alleged blind tasting panels and their ubiquitous point scores — remain somewhat clinical (if not influential) in their approach. Rarely do they pen wine reviews with any sense of character or panache. On the other hand, McInerny wields a style that often reflects elements of P.J O’Rourke and Ernest Hemingway.

Many folks may criticize McInerny for not having enough credentials as wine critic. But I say, so what? With the wide range of wines that “Hedonist” covers, McInerny has certainly invested many years into the subject, and who’s to really say that his opinions and observations are not every bit as valid as Robert Parker’s or Jim Laube’s? With any luck, I see McInerny as someone who has the potential to offer some new perspectives on wine and who will hopefully deliver a little much-needed levity along the way.

The smartest thing I’ve done this year was to attend the Certified Wine Educator (CWE) Preview this week, a good six or seven months before I’m scheduled to actually sit for the CWE exam. The preview has not only proven motivational, as I realize that I’ve become rusty in several areas, but it also allows me enough time to take some action. I’ll definitely be reviewing my wine books this spring and summer, as I prepare myself for the 85-question multiple-choice test, as well as the hour-long essay. As for the tasting portion of the exam, I’m just hoping to have a good day, with my olfactory nerves firing on all cylinders.

I’m about to start a weekly wine tasting session with some colleagues who are also in the midst of various certifications (not only the CWE, but CMS and WSET students as well). I’ve read an awful lot about wine in my life, but my heavy California bias won’t be enough to guide me through a blind tasting of the world’s wines. These meetings should prove helpful. For those unfamiliar with the blind tasting format of the CWE, candidates must correctly match eight wines (four red, and four white) against a list of 10 ten possible wines (five red, and five white). Six correct answers represents a passing score for this portion of the exam.

The mock exam at the CWE Preview included the following 10 wines:

• Babich, Marlborough, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009

• Peter Lehmann, Eden Valley, Riesling, 2008

• Napa Cellars, Mount Veeder, Chardonnay, 2008

• Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch, Chenin Blanc, 2008

• Jean Baptiste Adam, Alsace, Pinot Gris, Réserve, 2008

• Allegrini, Valpolicella Classico, 2007

• Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba, 2007

• Napa Cellars, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007

• Peter Lehmann, Barossa, Shiraz, 2008

• Louis Jadot, Nuits-St-Georges, 2006

[The two wines that were not in the actual flight of eight were the Allegrini Valpolicella and the Napa Cellars Chardonnay.]

Cheeseburgers still get plenty of discussion around these parts, even though the Napa Valley is known more for its regal fare. The fact is, if you live here, you just can’t always eat foie gras (and anyway, there are definitely times when only a burger will suffice). In my article “The Tell-Tale Burger,” I go on record, arguing that the Rutherford Grill serves the best cheeseburger in the area. And as of today, I continue to stand by this claim, all the time fending off debates by folks who point to Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, Taylor’s Refresher, and all the rest (including In-N-Out, which will always earn “Best in Class” honors for being super-affordable). Honestly, I wouldn’t turn down a burger from any of those places.

My most recent cheeseburger was at BANK Cafe and Bar in the Westin, and I thought that the version pictured above was both tasty and spot-on. BANK Cafe is the satellite of La Toque (also inside the Westin), and its affiliation with chef Ken Frank’s Michelin-star restaurant carries some expectations, which I felt were met: I appreciated the house-made pickles and the grilled red onions, and I was actually quite surprised with the ripeness of the tomatoes, especially given the season. Although the bun pictured above was fresh and properly toasted, I still prefer the yellowish egg-buns that they feature at the Rutherford Grill. Considering that both cheeseburgers are priced at $14, this last detail was really the difference for me.

Still, you can certainly add the cheeseburger at BANK Cafe to the long list of “best burger” contenders here in the valley, and I look forward to exploring more of the restaurant’s menu in the future.

For those who are gearheads, the “Fat Boy” is best-known as a model of Harley Davidson. I’m not sure if the Fat Boy sushi roll at Hana borrows its name from the motorcycle, but I did spot a couple Harley Davidson stickers posted near the sushi bar. Etymology aside, the Fat Boy at Hana is equal parts opulence and deliciousness: unagi, tamago and foie gras, rolled and given the tempura treatment, then sliced into eight pieces and drizzled with unagi sauce. While the roll itself does not feature many of the same photogenic colors as some of chef Ken Tominaga’s other creations, I had to share this photo nonetheless. After all, it’s sushi with foie.