The Culinary Timeline is a side-project that I've been working on since October. I'm hoping to have most of it complete by the end of January, with any luck. Until then, updates around here will be weekly, rather than twice weekly. Do stay tuned.
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I try not to make a point of “re-purposing” web content, since so many other sites do it so well, but I had to pass along this Atlantic Online article by chef John Besh. The lifelong Louisiana resident does an admirable job of ripping the federal government, which again seems a bit slow to react to another Gulf Coast crisis (Katrina who?). I wonder what kind of accountability will be held for this fiasco. And is disaster one of the inevitable results of human evolution?
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Ever since I posted my own insight regarding the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) exam, I’ve been receiving hundreds of searches per week on the subject, and many folks have downloaded the study guide that I created to help myself pass the test last year. As I’ve mentioned here before, the subject of Italian wine remains one of the most challenging topics to learn. Not only does this subject require one to (a) learn all of the states in Italy, but it also involves (b) learning the sheer number of varietals in production. Then, what complicates things further is [... read more ...]
Studying for the Certified Wine Educator (CWE) exam has required me to dust off a few of my old favorites, though unfortunately, I’m talking more about books than bottles these days. Certainly, the one book that really helps to jog my memory about Italian wine is 2005′s “Vino Italiano,” which was authored by Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch. Folks who are Food Network junkies may have already seen Bastianich on his mother’s cooking series, “Lydia’s Italian Kitchen” (Bastianich usually appears at the very end of the program, just in time to taste the food and recommend a wine — [... read more ...]
Many people may claim to love bacon, but I say that unless you’re willing to make it yourself at home, then it’s probably just infatuation. As my way to gear-up for the BLT season ahead (let’s just call tomato season what it really is), I’m going to spend the next couple of days curing and smoking the pork belly pictured above. Look at it. It’s a lovely porcine specimen — only a shade under three pounds — with a nice, uniform thickness. But despite these auspicious beginnings, this piece of belly is really no more than a meager [... read more ...]
Oakland Booty: The apple cider syrup can almost make you forget about maple.
The Brown Sugar Kitchen is a great little breakfast-lunch spot located in West Oakland, a vibrant little oasis flanked by imposing industrial buildings on every side. The restaurant is hardly a secret these days, and it seems to be flirting with “destination” status — a place that bustles with regular neighborhood-type business, despite being so far removed from any actual neighborhoods. Every time I’m there, I tend to wonder where most of the patrons come from, although by the looks of them, I’m pretty sure [... read more ...]
For those who may remember my recipe for perfect oatmeal cookies, I had praised the almighty rice crispy treat, extolling its overall simplicity, as well as its enduring popularity as an American classic. For those who struggle in the kitchen, I also present the following recipe, which features almost as few ingredients as rice crispy treats, but which involves even less cooking. The real difference, however, is that these curry mascarpone dates take the top prize for originality (after all, rice crispy treats have already seen quite a bit of playing time over the years). In fact, the [... read more ...]
The #16 at La Morenita Taqueria in Napa. Aside from the rice and beans pictured, this whole fried fish comes with a side of corn tortillas. Deconstructing the pescado might require some effort and patience, especially from those who may not be used to dealing with whole fish (and the presence of pin bones). You really have to want it, I suppose.
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My springtime gardening project has occupied much of my free time lately, as I’ve slowly reclaimed the backyard from a winter’s worth of weeds. I’ve purchased five or six [... read more ...]
The Business: Boon Fly's fried chicken with smashed Yukon gold potatoes. Not pictured, carrot and broccoli coleslaw.
Submitted for your approval, my long-overdue snapshot of the fried chicken plate ($18) at Boon Fly Cafe in Carneros (otherwise known as the best fried chicken in the Bay Area). Perfectly brined, perfectly cooked, with just enough breading to let the skin take center stage. It’s one of those spot-on comfort foods that always seems to taste even better than I had remembered. My only real complaint, if you can even call it one, is that the Boon Fly Cafe doesn’t [... read more ...]
UPDATE: My July 11th visit to Morimoto’s pre-opening (with pictures).
I recently received a comment about Morimoto Napa possibly being nixed, after the Iron Chef formed an alleged disagreement with developers about his condo at the Napa Riverfront (for those who may not remember, Morimoto’s purchase of a condo was what first allowed me to break news of his new Napa restaurant). Anyhow, since I already knew that the condo and the restaurant were part of a package deal, this rumor had an enough detail and plausibility to warrant some consideration. As I texted my inside source about this [... read more ...]
C'est bon: Creole red beans, garnished with andouille sausage, parsley, and a sieved egg. Pictured in the BG: Crystal Extra Hot.
If I’m going to spend a Monday afternoon making a big pot of red beans, then I want them to be New Orleans red beans, like so many versions I tasted when I was living and cooking in the Crescent City. And just so you realize that I take these matters very seriously, I should point out that this recipe took some considerable time and effort, and not just on my part. The very foundation [... read more ...]
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