The Culinary Timeline is a side-project that I've been working on since October. I'm hoping to have most of it complete by the end of January, with any luck. Until then, updates around here will be weekly, rather than twice weekly. Do stay tuned.
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Quintessa features a unique and creative set-up for wine-making: The grapes are sorted and destemmed at roof level, then gravity-fed into the winery via the skylights. The custom-made conduit, pictured above, funnels the grapes from the skylights into the fermentation tanks below (click the photo for higher resolution).
I scheduled a wine-tasting session at Quintessa last week, and if there’s one thing that I appreciate about Quintessa’s format, it’s the rare opportunity to taste a three-year vertical of premium Napa Cabernet. At the moment, Quintessa is pouring its 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages, and I carefully evaluated all [... read more ...]
Golden brown, and then some.
The fish and chips at Silverado Brewing Company remains one of my favorite comfort foods here in the Napa Valley, although this dish succeeds more on its execution than its authenticity: The fish itself is a Vietnamese catfish called basa — definitely not traditional within the dish — but on the other hand, the crispy beer batter and the house-made tartar sauce are always pitch-perfect. And that’s what really counts.
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The banh mi sandwich @ Auberge du Soleil, with a yellow and green bean salad (not pictured: Auberge's unrivaled patio view).
Back when I first moved to the Napa Valley, I took a job as a line cook at Auberge du Soleil, and despite two years of chef school and several years of prior professional experience, Auberge proved to be an education unto itself. It not only redefined my standards, but it also redefined stress and adrenaline. These elements are inseparable, especially with Michelin-star cooking, and I reserve so much respect and admiration for the line cooks who [... read more ...]
"Garçon" means boy; "cochon" means pig.
Question: How have I not already stumbled across this jaw-dropping, early-20th-century French advertisement? Wow, the ticklish glee of the pig’s smile really says it all: Fresh, delicious sausage, happily sliced to order. When you’ve got it, flaunt it. There’s certainly no shame in acknowledging the source of your food, and besides, what a splendid way to ward off vegans and vegetarians. Bon appetit!
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As I spent the early morning hours debating whether or not to visit Berkeley, Sonoma or San Francisco, I was carefully considering each option, when it occurred to me that a road trip to Point Reyes was long overdue. Enough said.
Now here's my scandal.
The highlight of my day was a cheeseburger, but not just any cheeseburger: This is the cheeseburger ($12) at Marin Sun Farms, and the melted New York cheddar and the mound of house-cured bacon are both standard issue. Fantastic grass-fed goodness.
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A friend recently informed me of Mr. Pollo in the Mission District, although I understand that this restaurant has also been featured on the “Bang for the Buck” episode of “The Best Thing I Ever Ate” (as chef Chris Cosentino’s selection, Episode #3.13). Sorry for the late pass, folks. Given my own first impression, Mr. Pollo is certainly an enigmatic entity, the spirit of quasi-haute cuisine, shoe-horned into a tiny storefront on Mission and 24th, and surrounded by a bevy of taquerias, fast food joints, and one of the Bay Area’s dodgiest BART stations. Aesthetically, Mr. Pollo blends into [... read more ...]
We’re already two weeks into 2011, and I haven’t even discussed wine yet this year. That will all change very soon: I’ll be attending the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux 2008 Vintage Tasting in San Francisco next week. Of course, I’ll put together a list of my top 20 wines, and then I’ll report back here. If you’re attending any of the events scheduled below, please check back to compare notes!
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Fit for a king: Chicharron de Pollo @ Limon Rotisserie.
I first visited Limon Rotisserie a few years ago, shortly after the restaurant had opened (back then, Limon Rotisserie was the new spin-off of Limon, San Francisco’s wildly popular Peruvian restaurant, also located within the Mission District). I ordered the ceviche de pescado and the chicharron de pollo; the former dish was awfully good, but the latter dish marked a small revelation. Who knew that fried chicken could take such exotic directions, but still maintain its inherent deliciousness? Pictured above, the chicharron de pollo offers exactly what its [... read more ...]
Although the panko-crusted pork cutlet has captured the spotlight, the show-stopper is the rusty-red curry sauce itself, pictured at the upper right.
When I used to live in West Los Angeles, I learned to take full advantage of the wonderful Japanese eateries that dotted Sawtelle Boulevard (additionally, I was no stranger to Sawtelle’s all-night karaoke scene). Among my favorite restaurants, Hurry Curry of Tokyo offered a terrific pork cutlet, and this dish soon became a weekly staple during my post-college years. Although curry finds its true roots in India, curry was first introduced in Japan by the British [... read more ...]
Brought to you today by the letter R: Two dozen Chelsea Gem oysters.
Maybe it was because it was happy hour, or maybe San Francisco just loves oysters, but Hog Island Oyster Company was doing brisk business on Monday at the Ferry Building. Sam and I were lucky to grab a seat at the bar when we did, and it was her idea to sip some Cava until the oysters went half-price at 5 o’clock. Sancerre and Muscadet followed and flowed. If you consider the old rule of thumb — that oysters are best in months that contain [... read more ...]
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