Food writer Stewart Lee Allen offers a unique approach to culinary history with his book “In the Devil’s Garden,” a collection of essays cleverly divided into seven sinful chapters. Allen’s book, which runs the gamut from lust to anger, addresses an impressive array of food-related topics, from the taboos of cannibalism to the near-mythical delicacy of ortolans. For the foodie, “In the Devil’s Garden” presents a thoughtful, if not breezy, compendium. As my friend Samantha commented, it’s a sipper.
