The Accidental Wino » Asian Cuisine

The Spicy Pork Bibimbap @ Bowl’d Korean Rice Bar, Albany

The Accidental Wino — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 05:15:19 +0000

Mmmm... 'Bap: Korean comfort food.

I’m fairly convinced that whenever a dish arrives at the table still sizzling, it triggers some sort of primordial instinct. I’m not sure what it is, but there’s definitely something at work. By the same token, I’ve certainly experienced diner’s regret when I’ve ordered an enchilada plate that was upstaged by a sizzling fajita platter, or a shrimp green curry that was upstaged by a sizzling plate of tandoori chicken. That being noted, Bowl’d Korean Rice Bar offers its patrons the option of a regular serving bowl, or a screaming-hot stone bowl; don’t make the mistake of ordering anything but the screaming-hot stone bowl. Not only will your bibimbap quietly whisper to you as you contemplate its seven accompanying side dishes (or banchan), but if you douse the contents with a few splashes of citrus soy, the bibimbap will soon hiss back to life before releasing an impressive plume of aromatic steam. And it’s not just for show, either. As you begin to explore and experiment with the bibimbap’s myriad ingredients and supplements, the rice at the bottom of the bowl forms an addictive, carmelized crust that cannot be denied.

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Photo Purge: Scenes from the California Bay Area and Beyond

The Accidental Wino — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:14:03 +0000

Gateway Market, Emeryville: Adorned with a fantastic mural alongside its parking lot, the Gateway Market is tough to miss on San Pablo Blvd. The artwork has a definite graffiti vibe, but the details are fantastic. Luckily, it hasn't been tagged over. The "W" in Gateway is pictured above (each letter has its own theme). Click on the photo to reveal all of the great flourishes.

Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my approach to photography, and I must confess, my only real secret is to simply seek the best lighting possible. Truthfully, I’ve never had any formal photography training, but I did develop an eye for proper lighting while I was working (briefly, almost 15 years ago) as a grip in Los Angeles. Any moviegoer who has bothered to sit through the credits may have wondered what function a grip serves. In a nut shell, the grips help to manipulate the film set’s lighting, based upon the director of photography’s instructions. The “key” grip is the lead grip, while the “best boy” grip is second in command (I was never either of those, obviously). Much like cooking, gripping is long, laborious work with odd hours. However, if you pay attention on the job, you can also learn a few things along the way. Who knew that a summer of gripping would’ve ever become useful?

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Uni with Caul Fat on Crostini @ Marea, NYC: Long before Anthony Bourdain developed his upcoming show, The Layover, which premieres November 21st, I used a four-hour window at JFK to jump onto the subway and eat a seven-course lunch at Marea (top that, Tony). David Koon, my old CIA roommate, was in the kitchen at the time, so I received the VIP treatment, and fast. Coincidentally, Dave opened up his own restaurant, Chuko Ramen, just two days ago in Brooklyn. He said the 35-seat dining room turned out more than 200 covers on its first day, which is an insane number.

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Highway One, Near Salt Point State Park: I was driving up California's North Coast to forage porcinis when I spotted this old fellow gazing out over the Pacific Ocean. He was laying near the edge of the grassy cliff, apparently in total zen mode. Unfortunately, he stood up when I approached to snap a picture. After a two-minute stand-off, I gave up and left him to his meditations. Sorry, buddy.

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Philo Apple Farm, Philo: This large painting adorns the small shopping area at Philo Apple Farm, which is owned by Don and Sally Schmidt, the original owners and founders of Yountville's French Laundry. All purchases are based upon the honor system (at least every time I've visited), and the farm itself is Demeter-certified.

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Nopalito Restaurant, San Francisco: I really like the artwork on this ice-cream freezer outside of Nopalito.

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Five-spice Pork Belly over Rice: This is one of the very first pictures I published on this blog, back at a time when I was publishing recipes. My format has evolved over the years, and at this point, I save all my recipes for the annual Project Food Blog competition, which is coming up again this year (I finished in the Top 12 out of almost 2,000 contestants last year -- just saying).

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Mandina's Restaurant, New Orleans: My sentimental favorite in the Crescent City.

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The Strip District, Pittsburgh, PA: This mural was a work-in-progress during my visit to Pennsylvania a couple years back. I'm sure it's completed by now. I liked where it was headed.

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Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros: I spotted this little VW in the parking lot of the Boonfly Cafe one morning. I'm not sure if it belonged to a purveyor or to a guest. Pretty cool whip, regardless.

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Cookie Fortune @ China Village Restaurant, Albany: I think.

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The Run-Down: Some Bay Area Food Pics to Consider

The Accidental Wino — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 06:09:30 +0000

Roast Duck Banh Mi Dip @ The Kitchen Door, Oxbow Market, Napa.

Having worked at Martini House back in 2007, it would be impossible for me to offer an unbiased opinion of the newly-opened Kitchen Door at Oxbow Market — truthfully, I know too many of the staff, and in some cases, I already know the food (a handful of the Kitchen Door dishes, including the mushroom soup, are vestiges of chef Todd Humphries’ former Martini House menu). That said, it’s worth leading off this most recent photo purge with a snapshot of the Kitchen Door’s roast duck banh mi, a sandwich that — along with the “Lahmajune” Armenian pizza — definitely ranked as a front-runner among dishes that I most wanted to try. My short and biased opinion: The banh mi was good. The presence of the dipping broth definitely spins things in a new direction, and the Southeast Asian jus complements the sandwich well.

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Gorditas al Pastor @ La Morenita, Napa.

The best Mexican restaurants in the Napa Valley are attached to markets: La Luna in Rutherford; Azteca in St Helena; and especially La Morenita on Jefferson, near Lincoln. The latter earns my vote for the best and most interesting tacos in Napa. I’ve been fixated on La Morenita lately, and I hope to publish a picture of their sopes before too long.

Carnitas Tacos la Plancha @ La Morenita, Napa.

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Garlic Pork @ China Village, Albany.

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Rice Crackers with Peanut Sauce @ White Lotus, Berkeley.

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Sandwich board outside Gioia.

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Herbed Flatbread @ Kitchen Door, Oxbow Market, Napa.

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Six Pics: Some Bay Area Food for Thought

The Accidental Wino — Mon, 09 May 2011 06:03:41 +0000

The Bear Burger @ Jodie's Diner, Albany Village. I think that's the name of this burger. Jodie's has dozens of off-menu items to choose from, and this burger is one of them. Regardless of its proper name, it's the cheeseburger at Jodie's that comes with a fried egg, and it can definitely compete with the Bay Area's best.

I just finished up Mother’s Day lunch and dinner service, which makes for a long but rewarding weekend in the kitchen. Before that, I found a few good things to eat, and they’re pictured here for your perusal.

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The Bear Burger @ Jodie's Diner. Like any good burger, the Bear Burger warrants several napkins. Also, it's one of those burgers that's too risky to put down once you've picked it up, since you may only get one chance to gather all the parts at once. As you can see, I damaged the top bun just trying to prop this beast up for a closer look. It's equal parts unwieldy and delicious.

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The Monte Cristo @ Jodie's Diner. File under: Hangover cure. Although this "Monte Cristo" is actually more of a French toast triple-decker sandwich, it delivers the calories nonetheless. That's French vanilla ice cream in the background (just kidding, it's a pitch-perfect potato salad).

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The Charcuterie Plate @ Healdsburg Charcuterie. Had this app after a trip to Unti VIneyards, where I picked up their excellent 2007 Syrah (Unti's 2007 Benchlands Syrah is also a winner). As for the charcuterie plate, that's duck rillette in the middle and some nice pork products underneath the cheese.

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Pork Shoga Yaki @ Norikonoko, Berkeley. This dish was one of the restaurant's specials. The pork was marinated in the classic soy-mirin-sake trio, but with an addition of ginger, as well.

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Accoutrements @ Norikonoko, Berkeley.

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Ramen @ Norikonoko, Berkeley

The Accidental Wino — Thu, 21 Apr 2011 04:10:58 +0000

Chasu Ramen with Gyoza @ Norikonoko, Berkeley.

Without a doubt, Norikonoko features more mom-and-pop charm than any other ramen house that I’ve visited in the Bay Area. But to be fair, the restaurant isn’t really a ramen house per se — Norikonoko just happens to offer ramen on its menu. The question then, does Norikonoko’s ramen compete with the amazing versions that I’ve enjoyed at such South Bay specialty spots as Ramen Halu or Ramen Dojo? Well, no, it’s simply not on the same level as those two stalwarts. However, Norikonoko’s ramen does remain satisfying in its own right, and I’d say that it’s nearly equal to its Berkeley counterpart on University Avenue, Ryowa. More than that, the ramen at Norikonoko certainly proves tasty enough to warrant further exploration of the menu: I had the opportunity to see quite a few dishes as they left the restaurant’s tiny, open kitchen. Everything looked delicious.

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Lunch @ Ramen Halu, San Jose

The Accidental Wino — Tue, 29 Mar 2011 02:20:17 +0000

Ramen Halu: Making pho look quaint in comparison.

After a complete three-year absence from professional cooking, I’ve decided to return to the kitchen in just two short weeks. That’s right. I’ll soon be cooking dinner service full-time at one of the Michelin-star restaurants here in the Napa Valley. Personally, I can’t wait to get back behind the stove again, though I really don’t expect this news to have any direct effect on this blog. We’ll just have to see what happens. As it is, my self-appointed mission to suss out the most interesting comfort foods in the Bay Area remains a compelling challenge, and my passion for wine won’t diminish just because I’ve decided to leave the wine business. But enough about me.

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A really good friend of mine is slated to open a new ramen house in Brooklyn very soon, so I’d rather not add any fuel the East-Coast-versus-West-Coast ramen debate. Truthfully, I’m not even sure if this debate even exists, but there’s always that potential. In California, the best ramen houses are located in the South Bay, especially in the areas bound by San Mateo to the north and San Jose to the south. Although San Francisco and Berkeley do offer a few decent options for ramen, neither of these food-friendly cities can really compete with the offerings of a city like Cupertino or Mountain View. I know it’s crazy, but it’s true.

Ramen Halu is widely considered the best ramen in San Jose, which pretty much places it in the running for the best in California. I can’t really argue with that sentiment, although Ramen Dojo in San Mateo ranks awfully high as a new contender. Frankly, it’s complicated, and maybe it’s a blessing that San Jose and San Mateo are separated by 30 miles of heavy California freeway. All preferences aside, I will definitely agree that Ramen Halu boats a profoundly rich broth, just tremendous in its depth, and that their in-house noodles are perfect in texture. How can you go wrong? These are the riches of the poor.

The kurobuta add-on: Yes, of course. I mean, please.

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Banh Mi Monday @ Auberge du Soleil, Napa Valley

The Accidental Wino — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 05:29:05 +0000

The banh mi sandwich @ Auberge du Soleil, with a yellow and green bean salad (not pictured: Auberge's unrivaled patio view).

Back when I first moved to the Napa Valley, I took a job as a line cook at Auberge du Soleil, and despite two years of chef school and several years of prior professional experience, Auberge proved to be an education unto itself. It not only redefined my standards, but it also redefined stress and adrenaline. These elements are inseparable, especially with Michelin-star cooking, and I reserve so much respect and admiration for the line cooks who can list two- and three-Michelin star restaurants on their resumes. The folks who ascend to those kitchens are far more passionate and dedicated than I ever was (and they possess far more culinary insight than any food writer, with very few exceptions).

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Having left the kitchen several years ago, I returned to Auberge as a diner on Monday, ostensibly for the $20.11 two-course lunch special, a Monday-through-Friday offer that ends this January. My friend Laura mentioned that when she had lunch at Auberge last week, the restaurant was offering its kurobuta pork chop as the special. Wow, a kurobuta pork chop and a first course for just $20.11? And at Auberge, no less? That is, by far, the best deal in the Napa Valley (Bouchon’s $25 late-night dinner is the second-best deal; that offer also ends next week). As you might imagine, I was really crossing my fingers for the pork chop today, but alas, the asparagus risotto had displaced it as the lunch special. Ah yes, the asparagus risotto. I’d spent so many nights at Auberge cooking that very dish, and asparagus itself really isn’t my favorite vegetable (at all), so I had to reconsider my options at the last minute, deal or no deal.

On a whim, I decided to order the banh mi sandwich, which is a Monday-only lunch item. Most people will scoff when I mention that Auberge sells their banh mi for a cool $21. I know, I know, I get it, completely: The humble banh mi is a $2 sandwich in some parts of the Bay Area (I’ve had most of them). But remember, Auberge du Soleil is a Relais & Châteaux property, so all of the thoughtful perks are factored into the pricing. The reality is, for most of the people who actually stay at Auberge, a $21 banh mi sandwich is an eminently affordable luxury that doesn’t even warrant a second thought. For me, it’s a relatively cheap passport into high society, and I must admit, the sandwich captures all of the spirit and flavors of banh mi, with some pedigree.

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The dessert arrived compliments of the house, and not because of this blog, believe me. It’s always great to have friends in the business. The Napa Valley is awfully small, and I still know way too many folks at Auberge to offer an unbiased restaurant review, but take a look at the pictures, especially that beautifully-composed dessert, and you tell me, was it delicious?

Baked phyllo dumplings with warm ganache centers, and tarragon ice cream (back in the day, my favorite flavor to raid after service).

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My Lunch @ Limon Rotisserie, Mission District, San Francisco

The Accidental Wino — Thu, 13 Jan 2011 07:11:32 +0000

Fit for a king: Chicharron de Pollo @ Limon Rotisserie.

I first visited Limon Rotisserie a few years ago, shortly after the restaurant had opened (back then, Limon Rotisserie was the new spin-off of Limon, San Francisco’s wildly popular Peruvian restaurant, also located within the Mission District). I ordered the ceviche de pescado and the chicharron de pollo; the former dish was awfully good, but the latter dish marked a small revelation. Who knew that fried chicken could take such exotic directions, but still maintain its inherent deliciousness? Pictured above, the chicharron de pollo offers exactly what its name suggests: Chicken that has been deep-fried into oblivion, in the method of the more well-known chicharrones de puerco (pork), or what Elvis might’ve called cracklins.

To criticize the chicharron de pollo for being over-cooked is to miss the point entirely. The chicken, which is boneless, skinless, and all dark meat (as far as I can tell), trades a decent portion of its succulence for a prodigious amount of Maillard-driven flavor. If you’re the kind of person who enjoys eating the half-popped kernels in a left-over bowl of popcorn, this dish deserves your attention. But really, there’s more to the chicharron de pollo than its crispy, mahogany exterior; the bird has also been marinated in soy sauce, perhaps not what you’d expect from Peruvian cuisine, but soy sauce now has more than 150 years of history in Peru, having first arrived with the (indentured) Chinese railroad workers in 1849. The soy-sauce flavor of the chicken, combined with the lemon-juice dipping sauce, is reminiscent of Japanese ponzu. I find it addictive.

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The beef short rib, pictured below, is my early highlight of 2011. The broth is rich and intense, and according to the menu, the sauce is accented with huacatay and cilantro. The herbaceous element is subtle within the dish, however, making this seco de castillos any easy substitute for classic American comfort food. With a side of white rice, there may be nothing better in winter.

Looks great, tastes even better: Seco de Costillas @ Limon Rotisserie.

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The Tonkatsu Curry @ Muracci’s Japanese Curry, San Francisco

The Accidental Wino — Tue, 11 Jan 2011 06:32:01 +0000

Although the panko-crusted pork cutlet has captured the spotlight, the show-stopper is the rusty-red curry sauce itself, pictured at the upper right.

When I used to live in West Los Angeles, I learned to take full advantage of the wonderful Japanese eateries that dotted Sawtelle Boulevard (additionally, I was no stranger to Sawtelle’s all-night karaoke scene). Among my favorite restaurants, Hurry Curry of Tokyo offered a terrific pork cutlet, and this dish soon became a weekly staple during my post-college years. Although curry finds its true roots in India, curry was first introduced in Japan by the British Navy, and because of this association, curry was therefore considered a “Western” dish (and an example of yoshoku, the Japanese interpretation of Western cuisine). In general, Japanese curry features a subtly sweet note that distinguishes it from its Indian counterpart, but the savory depth of flavor is what connects the two respective sauces. Looking back, I have so many favorites from Los Angeles that have no real substitute here in Northern California; however, the tonkatsu curry at Muracci’s (pictured above) is easily on par with that of Hurry Curry. In fact, it’s even better.

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10 Things I’ll Eat Again in 2011:

The Accidental Wino — Fri, 31 Dec 2010 07:10:26 +0000

End-of-the-year recaps present a great opportunity to “re-purpose” some old content (I learned this valuable euphemism during the dot-com era). Here are 10 dishes that I really enjoyed this year, in no particular order. I’m not saying this list comprises my top 10 dishes for the year, but some of them could definitely qualify. Clicking the photos will transport you back to the original article — and perhaps, a much simpler time and place.

Crispy shrimp with ginger and onions @ Huong Tra, Richmond.

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Flounder special @ Yuet Lee, San Francisco.

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The #6 Banh Mi @ Viet Nam, San Francisco.

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Black pepper brisket hash @ Fremont Diner, Sonoma Carneros.

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Chilaquiles @ Miguel's, Calistoga.

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Señorita bread @ Star Bread Bakery, Vallejo.

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Sake-marinated black cod @ Terra, St. Helena.

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Oyster po-boy with macaroni and cheese @ Brown Sugar Kitchen, West Oakland

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Pad See Iew @ Sa Wad Dee, Richmond.

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Garlic pork broth ramen @ Ramen Dojo, San Mateo.

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