I’m fairly convinced that whenever a dish arrives at the table still sizzling, it triggers some sort of primordial instinct. I’m not sure what it is, but there’s definitely something at work. By the same token, I’ve certainly experienced diner’s regret when I’ve ordered an enchilada plate that was upstaged by a sizzling fajita platter, or a shrimp green curry that was upstaged by a sizzling plate of tandoori chicken. That being noted, Bowl’d Korean Rice Bar offers its patrons the option of a regular serving bowl, or a screaming-hot stone bowl; don’t [... read more ...]]]>

Mmmm... 'Bap: Korean comfort food.

I’m fairly convinced that whenever a dish arrives at the table still sizzling, it triggers some sort of primordial instinct. I’m not sure what it is, but there’s definitely something at work. By the same token, I’ve certainly experienced diner’s regret when I’ve ordered an enchilada plate that was upstaged by a sizzling fajita platter, or a shrimp green curry that was upstaged by a sizzling plate of tandoori chicken. That being noted, Bowl’d Korean Rice Bar offers its patrons the option of a regular serving bowl, or a screaming-hot stone bowl; don’t make the mistake of ordering anything but the screaming-hot stone bowl. Not only will your bibimbap quietly whisper to you as you contemplate its seven accompanying side dishes (or banchan), but if you douse the contents with a few splashes of citrus soy, the bibimbap will soon hiss back to life before releasing an impressive plume of aromatic steam. And it’s not just for show, either. As you begin to explore and experiment with the bibimbap’s myriad ingredients and supplements, the rice at the bottom of the bowl forms an addictive, carmelized crust that cannot be denied.

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My regular readers may have been wondering why I haven’t been my prolific self this past month, and there’s a few reasons: (a) I’ve been golfing quite a bit lately, (b) cooking professionally has limited how much I dine out, and (c) I’ve been putting almost all of my mental energy into my new project, the Culinary Timeline (the site is still a definite work-in-progress, and not quite ready for prime time). Since returning to work in the kitchen earlier this year, I’ve not only expanded my culinary horizons in the present (étoile [... read more ...]]]>

The yolk is the sauce.

My regular readers may have been wondering why I haven’t been my prolific self this past month, and there’s a few reasons: (a) I’ve been golfing quite a bit lately, (b) cooking professionally has limited how much I dine out, and (c) I’ve been putting almost all of my mental energy into my new project, the Culinary Timeline (the site is still a definite work-in-progress, and not quite ready for prime time). Since returning to work in the kitchen earlier this year, I’ve not only expanded my culinary horizons in the present (étoile uses some really amazing and esoteric ingredients), but I’ve also become increasingly interested in the culinary past. I’ve been reading dozens of food history books, studying the evolution of fine dining, but also learning where it all went awry (America’s food industry is in disrepair at the moment, thanks to factory farms and rampant pre-processing). Anyhow, I went down to Berkeley the other day to load up on a few more books, and to have a quick bite to eat. I tried the pork sandwich, pictured above, at Gregoire. It was tasty, although the bun looks a little too big for the patty. Their fried chicken sandwich is still the smartest move for lunch. Equally smart, the potato puffs with aioli, pictured below.

Like duchess potatoes, but deep-fried.

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Pork sandwich, in progress.

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Slow Food Napa Valley hosted a pig roast and potluck on Sunday, September 11th, in conjunction with Ehlers Estate in St. Helena. The following photos highlight the event, which provided a forum for SFNV members to discuss the future of SFNV, and how they can help to increase interest and awareness of the Slow Food movement. Naturally, the brunch was amazing. Please click on any photo for a full-screen view.

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Pig cracklins, up close.

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CIA instructor Patrick Clark carves the [... read more ...]]]>

The dining area outside Ehlers Estate.

Slow Food Napa Valley hosted a pig roast and potluck on Sunday, September 11th, in conjunction with Ehlers Estate in St. Helena. The following photos highlight the event, which provided a forum for SFNV members to discuss the future of SFNV, and how they can help to increase interest and awareness of the Slow Food movement. Naturally, the brunch was amazing. Please click on any photo for a full-screen view.

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Pig cracklins, up close.

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CIA instructor Patrick Clark carves the Mulefoot Hog, which was provided by Michael Fradelizio of the Silverado Brewing Company and Beer Belly Farms.

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Michael Fradelizio (left) and Patrick Clark (right) remove the pig from the Caja China roasting box. A hungry crowd gathers.

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A look at the just-finished pig inside the Caja China.

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The Mulefoot hog, just a couple hours into cooking.

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The Ehlers Estate line-up. Delicious.

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Ehlers winemaker Kevin Morrisey (far left) talks shop with SFNV members.

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The Ehlers Estate tasting room, built in 1886.

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Debbie Fradelizio (left) and Corrie Beezley (right) greet SFNV members as they arrive for the potluck with baskets in hand.

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One very impressive apple pie.

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A beautiful honeycomb and cheese platter from Marshall's Farm.

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Heirloom tomato platter.

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In Ehlers Estate's BioDynamic vineyard.

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Flowers outside the Ehlers Estate tasting room.

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Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my [... read more ...]]]>

Gateway Market, Emeryville: Adorned with a fantastic mural alongside its parking lot, the Gateway Market is tough to miss on San Pablo Blvd. The artwork has a definite graffiti vibe, but the details are fantastic. Luckily, it hasn't been tagged over. The "W" in Gateway is pictured above (each letter has its own theme). Click on the photo to reveal all of the great flourishes.

Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my approach to photography, and I must confess, my only real secret is to simply seek the best lighting possible. Truthfully, I’ve never had any formal photography training, but I did develop an eye for proper lighting while I was working (briefly, almost 15 years ago) as a grip in Los Angeles. Any moviegoer who has bothered to sit through the credits may have wondered what function a grip serves. In a nut shell, the grips help to manipulate the film set’s lighting, based upon the director of photography’s instructions. The “key” grip is the lead grip, while the “best boy” grip is second in command (I was never either of those, obviously). Much like cooking, gripping is long, laborious work with odd hours. However, if you pay attention on the job, you can also learn a few things along the way. Who knew that a summer of gripping would’ve ever become useful?

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Uni with Caul Fat on Crostini @ Marea, NYC: Long before Anthony Bourdain developed his upcoming show, The Layover, which premieres November 21st, I used a four-hour window at JFK to jump onto the subway and eat a seven-course lunch at Marea (top that, Tony). David Koon, my old CIA roommate, was in the kitchen at the time, so I received the VIP treatment, and fast. Coincidentally, Dave opened up his own restaurant, Chuko Ramen, just two days ago in Brooklyn. He said the 35-seat dining room turned out more than 200 covers on its first day, which is an insane number.

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Highway One, Near Salt Point State Park: I was driving up California's North Coast to forage porcinis when I spotted this old fellow gazing out over the Pacific Ocean. He was laying near the edge of the grassy cliff, apparently in total zen mode. Unfortunately, he stood up when I approached to snap a picture. After a two-minute stand-off, I gave up and left him to his meditations. Sorry, buddy.

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Philo Apple Farm, Philo: This large painting adorns the small shopping area at Philo Apple Farm, which is owned by Don and Sally Schmidt, the original owners and founders of Yountville's French Laundry. All purchases are based upon the honor system (at least every time I've visited), and the farm itself is Demeter-certified.

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Nopalito Restaurant, San Francisco: I really like the artwork on this ice-cream freezer outside of Nopalito.

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Five-spice Pork Belly over Rice: This is one of the very first pictures I published on this blog, back at a time when I was publishing recipes. My format has evolved over the years, and at this point, I save all my recipes for the annual Project Food Blog competition, which is coming up again this year (I finished in the Top 12 out of almost 2,000 contestants last year -- just saying).

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Mandina's Restaurant, New Orleans: My sentimental favorite in the Crescent City.

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The Strip District, Pittsburgh, PA: This mural was a work-in-progress during my visit to Pennsylvania a couple years back. I'm sure it's completed by now. I liked where it was headed.

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Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros: I spotted this little VW in the parking lot of the Boonfly Cafe one morning. I'm not sure if it belonged to a purveyor or to a guest. Pretty cool whip, regardless.

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Cookie Fortune @ China Village Restaurant, Albany: I think.

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I’ve cooked plenty of baby back ribs in my day. When I worked at Houston’s Santa Monica (many moons ago), I prepped the restaurant’s pork ribs on a nightly basis. It went something like this: At the end of the night, the ribs were rubbed down with a mixture of sugar, Kosher salt, and spices, before spending about eight or 10 hours in a 250°F Alto-Shaam. In the morning, the now-tender ribs would be carefully dipped in bacon fat and wrapped in plastic. At this point, the [... read more ...]]]>

Try a Little Tenderness: The Back Rib Sandwich @ Solbar, Calistoga.

I’ve cooked plenty of baby back ribs in my day. When I worked at Houston’s Santa Monica (many moons ago), I prepped the restaurant’s pork ribs on a nightly basis. It went something like this: At the end of the night, the ribs were rubbed down with a mixture of sugar, Kosher salt, and spices, before spending about eight or 10 hours in a 250°F Alto-Shaam. In the morning, the now-tender ribs would be carefully dipped in bacon fat and wrapped in plastic. At this point, the back ribs could be chilled until needed. At service, the ribs were unwrapped and re-heated on the wood-fired grill, where they would be mopped with barbecue sauce. People really loved those ribs, and they continued to sell even after they were removed from the menu (a by-request item only, but insanely popular). I’m not exactly sure how Solbar prepares its ribs for its back rib sandwich, pictured above, but the tenderness is all there, along with the succulence and everything else (the pork bones seem to have been easily removed from the meat). It is, perhaps, the best pork sandwich in the Bay Area. So recommended.

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When I was working as a wine educator in Rutherford and Oakville, quick lunch options were unusually scarce. Aside from an occasional Dean & DeLuca sandwich, Mexican food was the only feasible option up valley — not that I ever complained all that much. Being a native of California, Mexican food will always be a staple for me, and the tacos on this page represent literally hundreds of past lunches, especially the tacos al pastor at La Luna Market, pictured above. Conservatively, I’ve eaten over one thousand tacos at La [... read more ...]]]>

Al Pastor Tacos @ La Luna Market, Rutherford.

When I was working as a wine educator in Rutherford and Oakville, quick lunch options were unusually scarce. Aside from an occasional Dean & DeLuca sandwich, Mexican food was the only feasible option up valley — not that I ever complained all that much. Being a native of California, Mexican food will always be a staple for me, and the tacos on this page represent literally hundreds of past lunches, especially the tacos al pastor at La Luna Market, pictured above. Conservatively, I’ve eaten over one thousand tacos at La Luna (at an average of about eight tacos per week for over three years, you do the math). Of course, with that many visits to one taqueria, I’ve sampled La Luna’s entire menu several times over, but at this point, I’ve distilled my go-to selections down to just two choices: their tacos al pastor, or their carnitas (extra crispy) super burrito.

I’ll save the burrito discussion for another time, but La Luna’s al pastor tacos are quite good, if a bit uneven sometimes. At their best, the ground pork has been rendered enough to have a few crispy bits, with the red sauce providing just enough piquant heat. Now that I’ve returned to professional cooking, my trips to La Luna have lessened significantly, but the hopes of on-point al pastor will still lure me up to Rutherford. On the other hand, if I’m in the mood for carne asada, I’ve found that the shrewd move is to drive a bit further to the north, up to Azteca Market in St. Helena. Azteca and La Luna are similar in the sense that both taquerias operate within small convenience stores, although Azteca’s carne asada is superior to that of its Rutherford counterpart. Pictured below, Azteca’s carne asada tacos feature a delicious salsa verde, though my only complaint is that sometimes the meat could be chopped a bit smaller.

Carne Asada @ Azteca Market, St. Helena.

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A couple summers ago, Anthony Bourdain profiled That’s It Market on “No Reservations,” a culinary endorsement that must have provided an amazing windfall to the tiny corner store (no doubt, the “No Reservations” logo still appears on the market’s menus). Two years later, That’s It continues to earn high marks for its well-known torta cubana, a catch-all sandwich of profound proportions. Being in the mood for this [... read more ...]]]>

The Torta Cubana @ That's It Market: Chorizo and Egg, Breaded Beef, Hot Dogs, Bacon, Ham, Queso Fresco, Lettuce, Tomato, Pickled Jalapeño, Guacamole, and enough Mayo to bring it all together.

A couple summers ago, Anthony Bourdain profiled That’s It Market on “No Reservations,” a culinary endorsement that must have provided an amazing windfall to the tiny corner store (no doubt, the “No Reservations” logo still appears on the market’s menus). Two years later, That’s It continues to earn high marks for its well-known torta cubana, a catch-all sandwich of profound proportions. Being in the mood for this delicious hodge-podge of salt and fat, I drove down to the Mission District on Tuesday afternoon before the Giants-Dodgers game at AT&T Park. The torta cubana pictured above proved to be a fitting pre-game meal, although it did stifle my appetite at the ball park — I could only manage to eat one Sheboygan bratwurst during the game. Click the photos for a better view.

Second verse, same as the first.

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The best things in life are fried: I learned this simple mantra very early on, when I used to work the fryer station at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen in New Orleans. We fried lots of delicious foods at K-Paul’s, including oysters, shrimp, soft-shelled crab, green tomatoes, duck skins, and of course, plenty of potatoes (K-Paul’s didn’t serve french fries, however. Instead, our potatoes were baked, halved, and then scooped. Once prepped, the skins and the “meat” were fried separately, with the [... read more ...]]]>

Always mustard, never ketchup: The Cajun Corn Dog @ Uncle Bill's Gourmet Corn Dogs, Sonoma Square Farmers Market.

The best things in life are fried: I learned this simple mantra very early on, when I used to work the fryer station at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen in New Orleans. We fried lots of delicious foods at K-Paul’s, including oysters, shrimp, soft-shelled crab, green tomatoes, duck skins, and of course, plenty of potatoes (K-Paul’s didn’t serve french fries, however. Instead, our potatoes were baked, halved, and then scooped. Once prepped, the skins and the “meat” were fried separately, with the little nuggets of fried potato “meat” being tossed into a rich cheese sauce, then spooned back into the fried skins. And in case you didn’t think it could get any better, this enemy of the arteries was the standard side item for the cheese-stuffed pork chop, which was blackened to perfection). Okay, where was I again?

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Today, a couple deep-fried items highlighted another perfect summer afternoon at the Sonoma Square Farmers Market. On the savory side, there was the Cajun-style corn dog, pictured above, from Uncle Bill’s Gourmet Corn Dogs. In this era of turkey dogs and, even worse, tofu dogs, someone’s got to fight the good fight on the corn dog front, and Uncle Bill’s offers up a substantial, top-heavy corn dog, fried to order, with a batter that’s remarkably light and fluffy. Highly recommended.

Dogs dipped in grease.

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Cinnamon and Sugar Donuts @ Harvey's Gourmet Donuts, Sonoma Square Farmers Market.

The first time I ever had a fresh donut, I was in high school. My best friend worked at a mom-and-pop donut shop in Lodi, which I would frequent quite a bit for some free donuts. One day, I happened to stop by when the baker was working, and I was blown away by the character of a truly fresh-from-the-grease donut. For me, the difference between and fresh donut and an hours-old donut is analogous to the difference between a garden-fresh tomato and a supermarket tomato (in fact, I’d probably rather eat an hours-old donut than a supermarket tomato). Freshness, of course, is the key selling point at the Harvey’s Gourmet Donuts booth, where mini donuts are offered by the dozen and topped with anything from powdered sugar to maple glaze with bacon bits. I actually prefer these donuts in a more simplified format, with cinnamon and sugar, pictured above.

Harvey: Master of Donuts.

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At the turn.

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Having worked at Martini House back in 2007,  it would be impossible for me to offer an unbiased opinion of the newly-opened Kitchen Door at Oxbow Market — truthfully, I know too many of the staff, and in some cases, I already know the food (a handful of the Kitchen Door dishes, including the mushroom soup, are vestiges of chef Todd Humphries’ former Martini House menu). That said, it’s worth leading off this most recent photo purge with a snapshot of the Kitchen Door’s [... read more ...]]]>

Roast Duck Banh Mi Dip @ The Kitchen Door, Oxbow Market, Napa.

Having worked at Martini House back in 2007,  it would be impossible for me to offer an unbiased opinion of the newly-opened Kitchen Door at Oxbow Market — truthfully, I know too many of the staff, and in some cases, I already know the food (a handful of the Kitchen Door dishes, including the mushroom soup, are vestiges of chef Todd Humphries’ former Martini House menu). That said, it’s worth leading off this most recent photo purge with a snapshot of the Kitchen Door’s roast duck banh mi, a sandwich that — along with the “Lahmajune” Armenian pizza — definitely ranked as a front-runner among dishes that I most wanted to try. My short and biased opinion: The banh mi was good. The presence of the dipping broth definitely spins things in a new direction, and the Southeast Asian jus complements the sandwich well.

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Gorditas al Pastor @ La Morenita, Napa.

The best Mexican restaurants in the Napa Valley are attached to markets: La Luna in Rutherford; Azteca in St Helena; and especially La Morenita on Jefferson, near Lincoln. The latter earns my vote for the best and most interesting tacos in Napa. I’ve been fixated on La Morenita lately, and I hope to publish a picture of their sopes before too long.

Carnitas Tacos la Plancha @ La Morenita, Napa.

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Garlic Pork @ China Village, Albany.

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Rice Crackers with Peanut Sauce @ White Lotus, Berkeley.

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Sandwich board outside Gioia.

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Herbed Flatbread @ Kitchen Door, Oxbow Market, Napa.

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If you were ever a fan of Martini House in St. Helena, the first thing you need to know about the Kitchen Door at Oxbow is that the mushroom soup is back. Good thing, too. I developed a lasting taste for that very soup when I used to cook at the Martini House — in those days, I ate a little mushroom soup almost every night, ladling the last remainders over cubes of left-over walnut bread, which [... read more ...]]]>

The family-style seating area at the Kitchen Door. Two-tops and four-tops are located on either side, along with some bar-style seating.

If you were ever a fan of Martini House in St. Helena, the first thing you need to know about the Kitchen Door at Oxbow is that the mushroom soup is back. Good thing, too. I developed a lasting taste for that very soup when I used to cook at the Martini House — in those days, I ate a little mushroom soup almost every night, ladling the last remainders over cubes of left-over walnut bread, which I had gathered from the pastry station.  Usually eaten out of a humble, plastic deli container, this delicious mixture of soup and starch formed a kind of mushroom porridge that allowed me to quickly wolf it down while cleaning up for the night (sipping the soup would require too much time and attention, especially with last call looming). For chef Todd Humphries, his cream of mushroom soup has become the definition of a signature dish, something so dialed in that it’s developed a following over the last 10 years. No doubt, I’m happy to see that it’s back in the valley, and even more than that, I have high hopes for the Kitchen Door itself, a restaurant that employs quite a few people whom I’ve become friends with over the years.

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With its official opening looming, the Kitchen Door hosted a soft opening last night, serving about 170 covers in about three hours. The volume and the turn-out was way more than the restaurant had anticipated, which to me, bodes well for the Kitchen Door’s actual opening, which is on Tuesday, June 14. From that point on, the Kitchen Door will be serving lunch and dinner seven days per week, with plans for brunch being developed for August. I stopped by the new space today to get a daylight shot of the restaurant’s interior, which offers all kinds of different options in terms of seating. I think it’s a smart and comfortable space overall, and one that reveals that the Kitchen Door will actually have very little in common with the former Martini House, mushroom soup aside.

Not-so-great snapshot of the monitor above the Kitchen Door's ordering counter. But the picture does reveal the menu, if you click on the photo. The Kobe burger, the beef carpaccio, and the candy cap bread pudding also recall Martini House.

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