The Culinary Timeline is a side-project that I've been working on since October. I'm hoping to have most of it complete by the end of January, with any luck. Until then, updates around here will be weekly, rather than twice weekly. Do stay tuned.
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The weather finally became warm enough to uncork a 2008 Merry Edwards Russian River Sauvignon Blanc, which I had been hoarding for what seems like an entire year now. It may very well have been that long, considering the 2009 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc is already out on the market, and I did acquire the 2008 vintage very early during its release. Anyhow, as the 2008 Merry Edwards approaches its second full year of age this fall, it was the perfect time to finally take a peek, and see what my remaining stash could offer in the future. [... read more ...]
Sure, I could easily lead off with some typical wine-blogging cliché about it “being summertime” and “time for rosé,” but that’s all been done before, and frankly, I’m much better than all that. Besides, most non-sparkling rosé isn’t even worth drinking, unless there’s nothing else available. After all, much of the still rosé on the market is nothing more than a by-product — an after-thought, if you will — to more serious wine-making. For those who might not be hip to the game, when winemakers begin to ferment their red wines, they will often “bleed off” some of [... read more ...]
Knife optional.
I first became acquainted with the Fremont Diner’s smoked black pepper brisket when I ordered their breakfast hash a few weeks ago. That particular plate of hash was just heavenly and it’s definitely in the running for the best breakfast in the Napa Valley, although I’m not ready to bestow any lofty titles just yet. I have many more breakfasts to consider in the meantime, and I’ll delve into the specific greatness of the Fremont Diner’s brisket hash when the time is right. For now, I submit the lunch version of their smoked black pepper brisket, [... read more ...]
Southern style.
There’s not much of a breakfast culture here in the Napa Valley, at least compared to the dinner scene. I think that mornings tend to be reserved for sleeping it off from the night before, or else having a little “hair of the dog” at a Napa Valley tasting room at 10am. Bouchon Bakery does a brisk morning business, of course, but I don’t consider that breakfast. For one, there’s no bacon at Bouchon Bakery, and eggs are merely an ingredient, not a main course. But there is breakfast out there, and I’m going to cover [... read more ...]
In New Orleans, po-boys are very serious business, and while I was cooking professionally in the Crescent City a few years back, I had the envious opportunity of sampling sandwiches from all of the city’s most legendary spots, from Mandina’s down on Canal Street to Gene’s over on Elysian Fields Avenue. I tasted them all, and then I revisited these restaurants many times over, especially as out-of-town guests would stop through to visit. As most New Orleans locals will tell you, the foundation of any authentic po-boy is a signature Leidenheimer Baking Company roll. Founded in 1896, the Leidenheimer [... read more ...]
The Fremont Diner's Nashville spicy fried chicken comes standard with macaroni and cheese. In the background, a cream biscuit with country ham (also tasty).
I had jumped on the Ad Hoc bandwagon for a moment, back when their fried chicken night was just becoming the juggernaut that it is today. Like everyone else, I was eager to draw the logical conclusion that if Thomas Keller is America’s greatest chef, then the Ad Hoc fried chicken should also be among the nation’s best. But unfortunately, it’s just not that simple when it comes to regional cuisine, and even the [... read more ...]
For those who are gearheads, the “Fat Boy” is best-known as a model of Harley Davidson. I’m not sure if the Fat Boy sushi roll at Hana borrows its name from the motorcycle, but I did spot a couple Harley Davidson stickers posted near the sushi bar. Etymology aside, the Fat Boy at Hana is equal parts opulence and deliciousness: unagi, tamago and foie gras, rolled and given the tempura treatment, then sliced into eight pieces and drizzled with unagi sauce. While the roll itself does not feature many of the same photogenic colors as some of chef [... read more ...]
Not your typical Southern-style pulled pork, but pretty good…
Anytime but now, anywhere but here: As tourism in the Napa Valley begins to hit its peak during the months of September and October, I tend to do as much as I can to remove myself from the situation. I make no apologies about it. Destinations like Sonoma, Mendocino, and Amador County earn additional appeal this time of year, inspiring road trips to more remote and more relaxing wine-growing regions. As a Zinfandel fanatic, I often turn to Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley for great wine and relative solitude (even [... read more ...]
Hana's Ken Roll: Spicy tuna, atop shrimp tempura and avocado
Although I’ve had some pretty decent sushi right here in the Napa Valley, when I’m facing really pent-up sushi cravings, I’m always compelled to drive over to Hana in Sonoma County. Over the years, I’ve found that when sushi is the objective, it always pays to go all in, especially when the merits of the cuisine rely so heavily upon the sheer quality of the ingredients. In these situations, I’ll gladly go out of my way to put myself in good hands (the fact that I’m willing to [... read more ...]
I got on a pizza kick about a month ago during an impromptu visit to Pizzeria Delfina down in the Mission District (the Bi-Rite Creamery, also near 18th and Dolores, was my overt destination). It may sound a little backwards, trekking into San Francisco just for a scoop of ice cream, then deciding to stop in for a quick Margherita pizza, since I was in the neighborhood. But I’m an opportunistic eater, and these are the diversions that I’m likely to take. Although the pizza at Delfina was pretty good, the salted caramel ice cream at Bi-Rite Creamery remains [... read more ...]
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