Slow Food Napa Valley hosted a pig roast and potluck on Sunday, September 11th, in conjunction with Ehlers Estate in St. Helena. The following photos highlight the event, which provided a forum for SFNV members to discuss the future of SFNV, and how they can help to increase interest and awareness of the Slow Food movement. Naturally, the brunch was amazing. Please click on any photo for a full-screen view.

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Pig cracklins, up close.

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CIA instructor Patrick Clark carves the [... read more ...]]]>

The dining area outside Ehlers Estate.

Slow Food Napa Valley hosted a pig roast and potluck on Sunday, September 11th, in conjunction with Ehlers Estate in St. Helena. The following photos highlight the event, which provided a forum for SFNV members to discuss the future of SFNV, and how they can help to increase interest and awareness of the Slow Food movement. Naturally, the brunch was amazing. Please click on any photo for a full-screen view.

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Pig cracklins, up close.

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CIA instructor Patrick Clark carves the Mulefoot Hog, which was provided by Michael Fradelizio of the Silverado Brewing Company and Beer Belly Farms.

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Michael Fradelizio (left) and Patrick Clark (right) remove the pig from the Caja China roasting box. A hungry crowd gathers.

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A look at the just-finished pig inside the Caja China.

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The Mulefoot hog, just a couple hours into cooking.

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The Ehlers Estate line-up. Delicious.

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Ehlers winemaker Kevin Morrisey (far left) talks shop with SFNV members.

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The Ehlers Estate tasting room, built in 1886.

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Debbie Fradelizio (left) and Corrie Beezley (right) greet SFNV members as they arrive for the potluck with baskets in hand.

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One very impressive apple pie.

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A beautiful honeycomb and cheese platter from Marshall's Farm.

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Heirloom tomato platter.

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In Ehlers Estate's BioDynamic vineyard.

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Flowers outside the Ehlers Estate tasting room.

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Arizmendi Emeryville lies in the shadow of Pixar Animation Studios, and although the bakery may not provide the ideal venue for a high-level power lunch, it certainly must be a welcome oasis for those who don’t occupy Pixar’s corner offices. And that’s the point, really: Arizmendi Bakery is steeped in the ethos of the everyman, an owner-operated cooperative and a spin-off of the famous Cheese Board Collective in Berkeley. Since its initial launch in 1997, the Arizmendi Bakery has expanded to four locations [... read more ...]]]>

Pizza @ Arizmendi Bakery, Emeryville: Housemade Tomato Sauce, Kalamata Olives, Spinach, Parmesan and Garlic-Herb Oil.

Arizmendi Emeryville lies in the shadow of Pixar Animation Studios, and although the bakery may not provide the ideal venue for a high-level power lunch, it certainly must be a welcome oasis for those who don’t occupy Pixar’s corner offices. And that’s the point, really: Arizmendi Bakery is steeped in the ethos of the everyman, an owner-operated cooperative and a spin-off of the famous Cheese Board Collective in Berkeley. Since its initial launch in 1997, the Arizmendi Bakery has expanded to four locations in the Bay Area, which may give the illusion of rampant franchising. However, each Arizmendi Bakery remains a unique entity in terms of its cooperative ownership (there’s actually no person named Arizmendi behind the scenes; the four bakeries take their common name from José María Arizmendiarrieta, a Basque labor organizer from the last century). As for the pizza itself, the pie at Arizmendi Emeryville is only slightly analogous to that of the Cheese Board, although it certainly boasts a familiar, if not similar, aesthetic (for better or worse, the sourdough crust at Arizmendi seems slightly less crispy than its Cheese Board counterpart). While I do concede that Gioia still remains my favorite slice in the East Bay, if I happened to work at Pixar, I would easily visit Arizmendi once a week, probably even more. In Emeryville, perhaps movie deals are hashed out over pizza.

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Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my [... read more ...]]]>

Gateway Market, Emeryville: Adorned with a fantastic mural alongside its parking lot, the Gateway Market is tough to miss on San Pablo Blvd. The artwork has a definite graffiti vibe, but the details are fantastic. Luckily, it hasn't been tagged over. The "W" in Gateway is pictured above (each letter has its own theme). Click on the photo to reveal all of the great flourishes.

Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my approach to photography, and I must confess, my only real secret is to simply seek the best lighting possible. Truthfully, I’ve never had any formal photography training, but I did develop an eye for proper lighting while I was working (briefly, almost 15 years ago) as a grip in Los Angeles. Any moviegoer who has bothered to sit through the credits may have wondered what function a grip serves. In a nut shell, the grips help to manipulate the film set’s lighting, based upon the director of photography’s instructions. The “key” grip is the lead grip, while the “best boy” grip is second in command (I was never either of those, obviously). Much like cooking, gripping is long, laborious work with odd hours. However, if you pay attention on the job, you can also learn a few things along the way. Who knew that a summer of gripping would’ve ever become useful?

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Uni with Caul Fat on Crostini @ Marea, NYC: Long before Anthony Bourdain developed his upcoming show, The Layover, which premieres November 21st, I used a four-hour window at JFK to jump onto the subway and eat a seven-course lunch at Marea (top that, Tony). David Koon, my old CIA roommate, was in the kitchen at the time, so I received the VIP treatment, and fast. Coincidentally, Dave opened up his own restaurant, Chuko Ramen, just two days ago in Brooklyn. He said the 35-seat dining room turned out more than 200 covers on its first day, which is an insane number.

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Highway One, Near Salt Point State Park: I was driving up California's North Coast to forage porcinis when I spotted this old fellow gazing out over the Pacific Ocean. He was laying near the edge of the grassy cliff, apparently in total zen mode. Unfortunately, he stood up when I approached to snap a picture. After a two-minute stand-off, I gave up and left him to his meditations. Sorry, buddy.

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Philo Apple Farm, Philo: This large painting adorns the small shopping area at Philo Apple Farm, which is owned by Don and Sally Schmidt, the original owners and founders of Yountville's French Laundry. All purchases are based upon the honor system (at least every time I've visited), and the farm itself is Demeter-certified.

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Nopalito Restaurant, San Francisco: I really like the artwork on this ice-cream freezer outside of Nopalito.

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Five-spice Pork Belly over Rice: This is one of the very first pictures I published on this blog, back at a time when I was publishing recipes. My format has evolved over the years, and at this point, I save all my recipes for the annual Project Food Blog competition, which is coming up again this year (I finished in the Top 12 out of almost 2,000 contestants last year -- just saying).

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Mandina's Restaurant, New Orleans: My sentimental favorite in the Crescent City.

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The Strip District, Pittsburgh, PA: This mural was a work-in-progress during my visit to Pennsylvania a couple years back. I'm sure it's completed by now. I liked where it was headed.

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Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros: I spotted this little VW in the parking lot of the Boonfly Cafe one morning. I'm not sure if it belonged to a purveyor or to a guest. Pretty cool whip, regardless.

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Cookie Fortune @ China Village Restaurant, Albany: I think.

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It’s usually surprising for most people to learn that, by volume, the Napa Valley accounts for just 4% of California’s total wine production (in total wine revenue, Napa would earn a much larger percentage, though I don’t have the specific figure for this category). Still, as one of California’s most important wine regions, it’s interesting to learn some of numbers that shape the Napa Valley. At my last board meeting with Slow Food Napa Valley, one of our members distributed copies of Napa County’s 2010 Agricultural Crop Report, which is published by the Department of Agriculture and Weights [... read more ...]]]>

It’s usually surprising for most people to learn that, by volume, the Napa Valley accounts for just 4% of California’s total wine production (in total wine revenue, Napa would earn a much larger percentage, though I don’t have the specific figure for this category). Still, as one of California’s most important wine regions, it’s interesting to learn some of numbers that shape the Napa Valley. At my last board meeting with Slow Food Napa Valley, one of our members distributed copies of Napa County’s 2010 Agricultural Crop Report, which is published by the Department of Agriculture and Weights and Measures. The pamphlet features about a dozen charts and graphs that spell out the details of Napa’s winegrape production, as well as its production of secondary crops. Here are a few key stats about Napa wine country, keeping in mind that these numbers pertain to Napa’s winegrapes more so than its wine:

• In total acreage, Napa’s red grapes outnumber its white grapes by a little more than three to one (specifically, that’s 33,060 total acres of red grapes versus 10,208 total acres of white grapes).

• Napa Valley is planted to 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by 15% Chardonnay, 14% Merlot, 6% Pinot Noir, 6% Sauvignon Blanc, and 3% Zinfandel (the other 13% is comprised of dozens of other varietals, including Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Petite Sirah).

• Among all the white grapes planted in Napa Valley, about 65% are Chardonnay; among all the red grapes planted in Napa Valley, about 56% are Cabernet Sauvignon.

• In 2010, Napa’s red grapevines produced an average of 2.86 tons per acre, while white grapevines produced 4.13 tons per acre. More specifically, Cabernet produced an average of 3.03 tons per acre, while Chardonnay produced an average of 4.04 tons per acre.

• Napa’s total acreage for Cabernet Sauvignon outnumbers its total acreage for Chardonnay by almost three to one (that’s 19,557 acres of Cabernet versus 7,000 acres of Chardonnay). This scenario was much different 20 years ago — in the early 1990s, Cab and Chard each had plantings of just over 10,000 acres apiece (Chard plantings have declined since the mid-1990s, while Cab plantings began to surge about 10 years ago).

• Last year, red grapes accounted for 80.5% of Napa’s grape-farming revenue, versus just 19.5% total revenue for white grapes (the average price per ton for red grapes was $3,782, while white grapes earned just $2,906 per ton).

• In 2010, the average price per ton for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon was $4,453, while Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc earned $5,236 per ton and $4,919 per ton, respectively. Keep in mind, however, that Cabernet Sauvignon from a prime Napa vineyard can fetch upwards of $15,000 per ton, easily making it the priciest grape on the market.

• On average, the Rousanne grape earned the highest reported price per ton for any varietal, at $7,000. This figure might be a bit misleading, however, since Napa Valley only has 15 acres of Roussanne in total. Obviously, scarcity seems to have been a factor in this case (the only two Napa Valley bottlings of Roussanne that I’m aware of are produced by Kongsgard Winery and Truchard Vineyards).

• Among the winegrapes listed on Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste, Napa contains 52 acres of Charbono and just 19 acres of Napa Gamay. My favorite Charbono is produced by Summers Estate, although I have also enjoyed the other Napa versions of Charbono — it’s definitely a grape worth seeking out. As for Napa Gamay, the only version I’ve ever encountered was the Melange by Vincent Arroyo Winery, also worth a taste.

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The fish and chips at Silverado Brewing Company remains one of my favorite comfort foods here in the Napa Valley, although this dish succeeds more on its execution than its authenticity: The fish itself is a Vietnamese catfish called basa — definitely not traditional within the dish — but on the other hand, the crispy beer batter and the house-made tartar sauce are always pitch-perfect. And that’s what really counts.

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Golden brown, and then some.

The fish and chips at Silverado Brewing Company remains one of my favorite comfort foods here in the Napa Valley, although this dish succeeds more on its execution than its authenticity: The fish itself is a Vietnamese catfish called basa — definitely not traditional within the dish — but on the other hand, the crispy beer batter and the house-made tartar sauce are always pitch-perfect. And that’s what really counts.

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Last Tuesday felt like the last warm day of 2010. Whether or not that proves to be true, tomorrow can only tell. It’s very possible that November or December might offer an odd sunny day here or there — that happens fairly frequently here in Northern California — but as far as planning a picnic was concerned, Tuesday just seemed like the last sure-shot bet of the season. Instinctively, and with the last vestiges of summer quickly fading into fall, I felt like [... read more ...]]]>

S'more Pots du Creme: Scharfenberger Chocolate Custard, Graham Crackers, and Toasted Marshmallow Fluff.

Last Tuesday felt like the last warm day of 2010. Whether or not that proves to be true, tomorrow can only tell. It’s very possible that November or December might offer an odd sunny day here or there — that happens fairly frequently here in Northern California — but as far as planning a picnic was concerned, Tuesday just seemed like the last sure-shot bet of the season. Instinctively, and with the last vestiges of summer quickly fading into fall, I felt like I needed to plan just one last visit up to Spring Mountain. Among the many wines of Napa Valley, I love Spring Mountain Cabernet in particular, and if I had to name a handful of my personal favorites, I’d list Pride Mountain, Behrens Family, Terra Valentine and Paloma (although the latter winery specializes in Merlot exclusively).

The drive up to the Spring Mountain summit takes you 2,000 feet above the Napa Valley floor, and if you ask me, all that much closer to heaven. When it comes to wine tasting on Spring Mountain, my strategy is to schedule three appointments as far apart in the day as possible (10am, 1pm, and 3pm is ideal), and then pass the time picnicking in between tastings. Spring Mountain features exactly zero restaurants, delis or taco trucks (it’s wine or nothing up there), and it’s way too much of a hassle (for me) to drive back down into St. Helena just to battle the crowds for lunch. The elegant solution, of course, is to pack your own picnic, and to enjoy the view. Each winery on Spring Mountain offers its own unique vista, so hopping picnic grounds is definitely a worthwhile pastime. I’ve got a couple pictures from Spring Mountain at the bottom of this post, but first things first: The views and booze may complement the scene nicely, but the food is still the highlight around these parts. And since I’ve already teased this entry with a picture of dessert, let’s just cut to the chase, shall we?

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The moment that the words “s’more pots du creme” popped into my head, I was instantly married to the idea. I felt that the words themselves, American slang alongside proper French, conveyed the very idea of a refined take on a classic treat. So how would it look? I pondered my strategy, and after considering all of the possible configurations, I decided that marshmallow definitely deserved the top spot, no question, since it would get the torch. As for the graham crackers, they would get soggy if they were on the bottom, so chocolate was the natural choice for the base. As for chocolate pots du creme recipes, I needed a stove-top approach, since baking the pots du creme in the oven would prove risky (these glass jars aren’t tempered, so they might not survive the extreme heat). I used a Cook’s Illustrated recipe as inspiration, but with a few substitutions and omissions, based upon what I already had on hand. Custard recipes offer a fair amount of leniency, so long as you keep them in the ballpark. Italian meringue, pictured below, requires a little more focus, but is also relatively forgiving, which is great. Once you learn to make Italian meringue from scratch, you’ll take step closer to rock star status among your friends (not to mention, the groupies).

Little Fluffy Clouds: Re-Whipping after a Night in the Fridge.

Italian meringue is marshmallow fluff, plain and simple. Everything is the same, but the name; they’re both created by adding hot, liquid sugar to beaten egg whites. I suspect that for most people, making an Italian meringue is one step beyond the norm. For me, I used to execute this recipe nightly when I was working the pastry station at the Martini House. However, I had never made Italian meringue even once before that, nor had I ever really considered it. Luckily, the sophistication of Italian meringue lies in its simplicity, which was excellent for me, since my background in baking and pastry was relatively scant. In this case, having a candy thermometer is 90% of it, and having a stand mixer is the other 10%. Basically, if you can read a thermometer, you’ll do fine. The recipe for meringue, which I also included below, is adapted from the one and only Julia Child.

• RECIPE •

S’MORE POTS DU CREME

Chocolate Pots du Creme Ingredients

• 9 oz Scharfenberger 62% (pale yellow wrapper, three big bars)

• 5 egg yolks (save the whites for Italian meringue)

• 1/4 cup sugar

• 2 cups heavy cream

• 1/4 cup whole milk

• Pinch of salt

Chocolate Pots du Creme Method

1. Break the chocolate bars into coin-sized pieces and set aside in a large bowl.

2. In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks with the sugar and the salt, until the mixture becomes pale yellow. Add the milk and the cream, then transfer this mixture to a sauce pot. Cook the custard slowly, over a low flame, stirring and scraping the sauce pot with a wooden spoon. Cook the mixture until it coats the back of the wooden spoon, about 170ºF.

3. Strain the warm custard over the chocolate, and stir until the pieces dissolve.

4. Divide the custard into jars and chill.

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Italian Meringue Ingredients

• 5 egg whites

• 1/4 teaspoon, cream of tartar

• 1-1/3 cups, sugar

• 1/2 cup water

• 1T vanilla extract

Italian Meringue Method

1. In a stand mixer, beat the eggs, salt, and cream of tartar, add the salt and cream of tartar, to soft peaks. Turn the mixer to the slowest speed as you complete the sugar syrup.

2. Bring the sugar and water to the simmer, and boil to the soft-ball stage (234°F to 240°F).

3. Beating the egg whites at moderately slow speed, dribble the boiling syrup into the mixer, trying to avoid the wires of the whip. Increase mixer speed to moderately fast, add the vanilla extract, and beat until the sides of the mixing bowl are just warm.

4. Allow the meringue to sit for 30 minutes, then re-whip the mixture to the smooth consistency pictured above. From this point, the meringue can be held for several hours, or re-whipped again the next day.

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S’more Pots du Creme Assembly

1. After the custard has set overnight, add a layer of graham cracker pieces, followed by a layer of marshmallow fluff. Toast the marshmallow fluff with a torch.

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What didn't fill the jars filled the ramekins. Not a bad look, either.

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Snap and Go: Shrimp Ceviche, Roasted Garlic Hummus, Duck Rillettes.

Duck rillettes sparked my fascination with hinged jars recently. Since I had duck confit in the fridge from a previous challenge, I knew that I wanted to bring some delicious duck rillettes up to Spring Mountain. But then I got to thinking about hinged jars in general, and how well they travel. Sure, they’re heavier than plastic containers, but glass also insulates far better than plastic, the hinged lids make it easy to flip the jars shut if there’s insects buzzing around, and glass also looks much more appealing than plastic (which certainly counts in PFB). I got carried away with the idea, and before I could even reconsider, I was knee-deep in brainstorming.

As for the food itself, I decided that the picnic should only consist of cold-prep items, since there would be no option to heat or re-heat anything at the summit of Spring Mountain. At the same time, I also wanted foods that would lend themselves to casual noshing, which meant that I wasn’t keen on specific portions, either. I envisioned impromptu snacking between winery visits, a scenario where one could simply make canapes as desired, selecting among a few different options. In this situation, someone could eat just a little of one thing, and maybe much more of something else. Ultimately, it all plays to personal taste, and having freedom from specific portions is a beautiful thing, so long as everyone has enough to eat.

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Sourdough crostini.

Crostini are great for picnics because it’s one-handed eating: You can hold a wine-glass in one hand, a duck rillettes crostini in the other hand, and you’re free to walk among the trees and take in the full view. What’s the point of eating outside if you can’t be liberated from the table?

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Shrimp Ceviche, smothered with Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa.

Since I had duck rillette in the works, I wanted a couple lighter options to balance out the savory course. Ceviche was a great choice, since it represents one of the lightest seafood preparations possible. I adore ceviche, and I also have a great admiration for tomatillo-avocado salsa. What can I say? I put them together, although in layers, just to kind of echo the look of the duck rillette (I blame this far-out presentation on too much wine, and my staunch California upbringing). If you don’t feel like getting freaky with the presentation, you can certainly mix the ceviche with the salsa verde ahead of time.

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Shrimps.

I had actually been planning scallop ceviche, but when I got to the market, the scallops looked haggard compared to these beautiful shrimp.

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Tomatillos, alongside Avocado and Lime.

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So fresh and so clean.

Put together, the ceviche and tomatillo-avocado salsa look striking in the outside light. This photo above is what didn’t fit in the jar. So vibrant and tasty on a proper tortilla chip, pictured below.

I bought the chips along the way, courtesy of my local lunch spot.

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• RECIPE •

SHRIMP CEVICHE with TOMATILLO-AVOCADO SALSA

Shrimp Ceviche Ingredients

• 1 lb. shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped

• 1 carrot, diced

• 1 small red onion, diced

• 1 red jalapeño, seeded and diced

• Zest and juice of two limes

• Salt, to taste

• Cilantro, chopped, to taste

Shrimp Ceviche Method

1. Combine ingredients and chill overnight.

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Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa Ingredients

• 1 ripe avocado

• 5 tomatillos

• Juice and zest of one lime

• Salt, to taste

• 1/4 cup water, plus more, as needed

Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa Method

1. Puree all ingredients, except for the avocado. Add water to the puree to achieve the desired sauce consistency. Transfer the tomatillo puree to a bowl and mash in the avocado with a whisk.

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• DUCK RILLETTES •

Duck : Rillettes. Pig : Bacon.

Although by far the most modest-looking of the trio, the duck rillettes were actually the star of the show (I floated some sprigs of thyme in the fat cap, just to add a little style to the presentation). Pictured above, this jar of duck rillettes is potent stuff, all lack of style is accounted for with substance: Three legs of duck confit, minced together with one shallot, and the three respective duck cracklins, pictured below. Oh yes. There’s high-octane flavor in that jar. The photo below depicts the cracklins as they emerge from the frying pan, before being minced into the confit. Duck skin sets the bar for crispy. And look at that golden brown color. You just can’t coach that. The picture below is actual size, unless you click it. For more background on duck confit, please visit my entry for cassoulet pizza.

What's cracklin, y'all?

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I stuck the parsley leaves to the inside of the jar with a little dab of olive oil. Then I filled the jar with a piping bag. If you use this little trick, the leaves stay put, no problem. You'd have a tough time trying to do this with a spoon, believe.

I feel like hummus is quite a bit like guacamole: As long as there’s enough salt and acidity, it’s usually pretty good. Hummus is a simple recipe, so much so that I never really use exact measurements for hummus. However, I’ll typically process two cups of drained garbanzo beans with an eight-ounce jar of tahini, assisted by 1/4 cup each of olive oil and water. For this recipe, I also added the roasted garlic (pictured below) to the puree. Once the puree is smooth, simply add salt and lemon juice to taste (for a recipe of this size, I’ll usually add the zest and juice of at least two lemons). I also like to add rough-chopped parsley to the hummus, for a clean, bright, herbaceous note.

Garlic, dressed with Olive Oil, Salt, and Black Pepper (then roasted for 30 minutes at 300ºF).

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Cool as a cucumber: Agua Fresca has a great look in the sunlight. It's iridescent from some angles.

I started making tons of agua fresca this summer, especially as watermelon came into season. I have a general formula that includes two pounds of fruit, one pint of water, and 1/4 cup of sugar (of course, this ratio can be heavily modified to suit personal tastes). The mixture is simply blended and strained. I chose cucumber because it’s one of the more counter-intuitive ingredients for a beverage. Plus, cucumber agua fresca is super-delicious.

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The jars fill the bottom, and everything else fits on top, even the plates and the accoutrements.

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Picnic with a view: I stitched together three photos of the Behrens Family vista. If last Tuesday does prove to be the last warm day of 2010, at least it was perfect. Click to zoom.

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The tasting room at Behrens Family is the business: A 1947 Westcraft trailer. I took this photo during my March 2010 visit. Great wines.

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Taken the same day as the photo above, this is the picnic area at Pride Mountain, as seen in the early springtime. Great wines, as well.

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Here in the Napa Valley, hosting a dinner party this time of year can be a mighty tall order. The problem is finding enough guests with free time, since so many folks in the valley remain hopelessly preoccupied during harvest and crush. Among most of the people I know, they’re either working long days in the cellar, or they’re working long nights in the kitchen (tourism in the Napa Valley also hits its peak this same time of year). No doubt, as September [... read more ...]]]>

The Main Event: Blackened Pacific Halibut with Crispy Pancetta New Potatoes, smothered in Sauce Anthony.

Here in the Napa Valley, hosting a dinner party this time of year can be a mighty tall order. The problem is finding enough guests with free time, since so many folks in the valley remain hopelessly preoccupied during harvest and crush. Among most of the people I know, they’re either working long days in the cellar, or they’re working long nights in the kitchen (tourism in the Napa Valley also hits its peak this same time of year). No doubt, as September yields to October, the typical Monday-through-Friday work schedule is a distant pipe dream for many, while eight-hour work days are also few and far between. However, in the spirit of Project Food Blog, I can definitely whip up some dinner-party-sized portions for my would-be dinner party. At worst, I can stuff myself silly, and still have a few left-overs for the week. I’ve provided the menu for the dinner further below, although I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself at this point. However, I should mention that the photo above is the main course for the dinner: Pan-Seared Halibut with Sauce Anthony, plated over Crispy Pancetta New Potatoes. You were expecting a pork chop, perhaps? Well, allow me to explain.

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Some of the featured players in tonight's drama: (A) Soon-to-be butternut squash soup; (B) Pancetta and new potatoes; (C) Soon-to-be curried sweet corn; (D) Heirloom apples and tomatoes.

With fall having arrived just a few days ago, my inspiration for a dinner menu was to offer the last vestiges of summer alongside an early prelude to autumn. Sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes and peaches are fast moving out of season, while heirloom apples, new potatoes, and butternut squash are just arriving. It’s one of the best times of the year to produce really top-level, ingredient-driven cuisine. In fact, many of these ingredients can easily take care of themselves with very little culinary intervention, which allows for many different flavors, yet requires remarkably little effort during the dinner itself. The tomatoes, for instance, only need to be sliced and dressed for the panzanella salad, and this task can be accomplished the night before (simply add the bread component just prior to serving). The Waldorf salad can also be assembled ahead of time, and the peaches require only a few quick slices, followed by a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

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Pure as the driven snow.

Although this season’s produce served as the basis for many of the dishes that I’d planned, I still had to consider the protein. What would be the main event of the evening? Although my gut and my intuition would usually point me towards something more terrestrial, such as pork or beef, I actually prefer halibut for dinner parties, and I’ve compiled five good reasons to argue in favor of fish: (1) Halibut is delicious, and it’s one of the most approachable fish out there; (2) halibut boasts a wonderful texture, a vibrant snow-white color, and it’s not overly delicate in the pan; (3) a fish entree helps to significantly lighten a multi-course meal, especially when served in lieu of pork or beef; (4) there’s no “temperature requests” (medium, medium-rare, etc.) with fish, as there might be with pork or beef; (5) fish is lean, meaning that it cooks quickly.

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The first rule of hosting a dinner party is that is has to look easy. Otherwise, your guests will be offering to help, rather than just relaxing for the evening. Worse than that, if you leave yourself too much to do on the night of the dinner, you’ll be scrambling to get warm food on the table, rather than enjoying your own shindig. With that in mind, I recommend a menu of quick-cooking dishes, a few cold dishes, and a couple of dishes that can be prepared a couple days in advance. I’m all about putting in the time and effort, just not so much during the dinner itself. In terms of my own menu, my quick-cooking dishes include the halibut, the curried sweet corn, and the pancetta new potatoes, while the cold dishes include the Waldorf salad, the heirloom tomato panzanella, and the balsamic peaches. The butternut squash soup and the praline crème brûlée both require the most prep time, but each dish can be prepared a few days prior to the dinner. I’ve posted my dinner menu below, followed by a few tips and observations.

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• WINE PAIRING TIPS •

As crazy as it may seem, I’ve actually geared this menu towards white and sparkling wines, with the possibility of pairing rosé with the halibut course. It may be a sin not to serve Napa Cabernet at a harvest dinner, but the heavy reds will have their time in the winter; I drink white wines almost exclusively during the summer, so this dinner would present a terrific opportunity to sip some whites while the weather remains warm. If I could name some specific current releases for each course, I would pair a bottle of Roederer Extra Dry with the Waldorf salad, a Toulouse Vineyards Gewurztraminer with the butternut squash soup, an Unti Vineyards Rosé with the halibut, and a small glass of Dolce Late Harvest with the praline crème brûlée. As more of a nod to Napa Valley, I might also consider a Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay with either of the first two courses. The possibilities are endless. Drink what you like.

• SOUP & SALAD •

Killer Apps: Waldorf Salad with Heirloom Apples.

The Waldorf salad is an American classic, and a wonderful way to showcase Sonoma and Mendocino’s emerging heirloom apple season. Rather than dress the salad with mayonnaise, I opted for a dressing of Greek yogurt and some local Napa blackberry-blossom honey. A sweet start helps to rekindle the waning days of summer.

Butternut Squash Soup with Amorelli Croutons.

For me, butternut squash soup remains one of the quintessential dishes of autumn, and as this soup percolates on the stove top, it provides a fantastic aroma as the guests arrive. Even better, it allows for the second course to hit the table with very little effort. Of course, most of the effort in making this soup occurs earlier in the week. I like to slow-roast the squash as I make the chicken stock for the soup. Since it requires at least fours hours for a proper batch of chicken stock, I roast the squash at 200ºF for the same amount of time, allowing the squash to assume a rich, mahogany color. The amorelli “croutons” are small Italian cookies, feather-light and almond-flavored. They complement the flavors of the soup, and they also float nicely.

• THE ENTREE & SIDE DISHES •

Click the image for Thirsty Reader HD.

Getting the soup and the salad to the table is relatively painless, and the real challenge of the dinner is to deliver the halibut and the sides at the same time. Much like the Waldorf salad, the heirloom panzanella can actually be prepared a couple hours ahead of time, minus the bread component. As a chilled dish, the panzanella can sit quietly in the refrigerator until it’s needed, so it doesn’t really require any attention during pick-up. On the other hand, the curried sweet corn, the pancetta potatoes, and the halibut need to be prepared simultaneously. As the simplest dish of the three, I began with the sweet corn, which only needs to be heated through after the curry powder and the pecans have had a chance to toast in the melted butter.

Curried Sweet Corn with Pecans and Dried Cranberries.

Once the curried sweet corn had finished cooking, I held the dish over low heat, and turned my attention toward the pancetta potatoes and the blackened halibut. Since the pancetta would need some time to render its fat, I began this process in a cold pan while I sliced the new potatoes and dusted the halibut with a little Paul Prudhomme Seafood Magic. In order to decrease the cooking time of the potatoes, I had already par-cooked them earlier in the week, slow-roasting them whole alongside the butternut squash. This par-cooking technique also helps to eliminate the possibility of serving under-cooked potatoes, which is reason enough to adopt this approach. As I browned the sliced potatoes in the rendered pork fat, I blackened the halibut in a separate skillet, then focused my efforts on the Sauce Anthony. One of my secret culinary weapons from New Orleans, Sauce Anthony is a simple heavy-cream reduction with accents of lemon, shallot, capers, Cajun spice, and sun-dried tomatoes. I learned this pan sauce when I was cooking at K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen several years ago, and it has remained in my arsenal ever since.

• INTERMEZZO & DESSERT •

Sometimes, two ingredients is all that's necessary.

I included balsamic-drizzled peaches as an intermezzo because I’ve been eating peaches this way all summer long. Served chilled, these peaches feature a refreshing sweetness and a palate-cleansing acidity that provides an apt segue to dessert. In fact, some might even call this dessert, but I wouldn’t want to be accused of half-stepping.

Grand Finale: Crème Brûlée with Pralines (lurking at the bottom).

Crème brûlée is a crowd-pleasing dessert that can be almost fully prepared a few days in advance. The burning of the sugar is the only step that cannot be executed ahead of time, but it only takes a couple moments to complete. I like to sneak a couple pralines into the bottom of each ramekin before baking. When your guests discover this little addition, it may just provide the final “ah-ha” moment that slays them at the very end.

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I have friends who live in Marin County who are mighty quick to dismiss the culinary options north of the Golden Gate. It is puzzling, in my mind, that such an affluent community has so few top-notch dining options in the [... read more ...]]]>

The 10-hour pork shoulder looks and tastes like pork belly, although this California-sized portion might not pass muster in the South. With everything else on the menu, however, it was plenty of swine, and the rich sauce certainly added some weight to this particular dish. The baked cranberry beans, which provide the bed underneath, were perfectly cooked.

I have friends who live in Marin County who are mighty quick to dismiss the culinary options north of the Golden Gate. It is puzzling, in my mind, that such an affluent community has so few top-notch dining options in the area. Aside from Sushi Ran in Sausalito, I really feel that the Marin County conversation begins and ends with with Picco Restaurant in Larkspur. Fortunately for the citizens of Marin County, Picco happens to deliver on several levels: Not only does the main restaurant feature some very admirable, über-seasonal California cuisine, but the adjoining pizza parlor, Picco Pizzeria, often ranks as one of the top pie joints in the entire Bay Area (as it should). Based upon the heavy, late afternoon traffic that I noticed there yesterday, Picco Pizzeria really seems to be the “it” choice of the moment. However, I decided to visit the main restaurant for Marin Monday, a weekly prix fixe menu ($35) which showcases foodstuffs from some of Marin County’s greatest local purveyors, including Tomales Bay Oysters and Marin Sun Farms meats. For this week’s menu, Picco offered a hodge-podge of “backyard BBQ” goodness, which is scanned and listed below:

Aside from the sundae, all four items are brought out at once, and presented on a small pizza peel. As for the menu itself, some people might roll their eyes at the egregious name-dropping, but I'm all for it.

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The chili-lime sweet corn was a true highlight, really incredible in every possible way. Kudos to chef-owner Bruce Hill for including two cobs on each plate -- one cob would've just been a tease.

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Although feta doesn't really do much for me, I can appreciate some local cheese in the mix. I see "pressed melon" on so many menus these days.

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The inclusion of a PLT sandwich (where P = House-cured Prosciutto) is always welcome, even if it's not a typical side. Or is the pork shoulder the side?

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I'm not a huge fan of chocolate-covered strawberries, which is the classic flavor profile that this sundae encompasses. That said, I am okay with it -- if that's how it's gonna be. Truthfully, I finished this dessert with little effort, but I'd probably order straight hot fudge the next time. That's more my style.

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