The Accidental Wino » Calistoga

Photos: Three Lunch Options from Wine Country and Elsewhere…

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:32:18 +0000

As I’ve mentioned here before, my goal in life is to only eat well, whether that means cooking at home or dining out. With that basic principle in mind, I definitely try to document everything delicious along the way, although sometimes certain meals get lost in the shuffle. And sometimes I may repeat myself, especially when I have certain favorites that I’ll revisit when I have the chance. I’ve actually mentioned all three of these lunches in previous posts, but never presented a photo alongside the article (I only upgraded my camera last May). Eventually, I’ll insert these photos into my past entries, but I wanted to give them a little shine on the front page as well.

The Chinatown Duck Burger @ Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, St. Helena

For the duck burger at Cindy’s, the real draw for me isn’t so much the fact that the burger is made of ground duck; what really sets this burger apart is the “shiitake ketchup” that dresses the sandwich. For my January 2009 entry about Cindy’s Duck Burger, click here.

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Pizza Slices @ Gioia Pizzeria, North Berkeley

My old buddy Ross, who lives in the Oakland Hills, got me hooked on Gioia a few years back, and whenever I’m parked on the 580 and I see the Gilman Street exit, I’ll often seize that opportunity to get a couple slices. I’d much rather eat pizza than sit in traffic. For my February 2009 review of Gioia Pizzeria, click here.

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The Tri-Tip Sandwich @ Buster's Southern Barbecue and Bakery, Calistoga

The tri-tip sandwich at Buster’s is always a treat, as long as you don’t order the hot barbecue sauce. I can handle a fair amount of heat, but that sauce tests my limits, so keep that in mind. The cornbread muffin is one of the very best out there — it doesn’t actually require the pat of butter, although I use it nonetheless. Their fresh lemonade (not pictured) is also a terrific accompaniment. For my June 2008 entry for Buster’s, click here.

Wine Tasting Notes: Schramsberg Vineyards, Calistoga

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 29 Jun 2010 08:33:20 +0000

"A Night on the Town," dedicated to Schramsberg's legendary riddler of more than 36 years, Ramon Viera, who retired last December.

As a Napa Valley local, I’ve visited Schramsberg maybe half a dozen times over the last few years, but today I’ve finally decided that this winery offers the mother of all wine tours, hands down. The deep history, the unique property, and the world-class sparkling wines are practically unrivaled here in the Napa Valley, and for these three reasons, Schramsberg truly belongs in a class by itself. I’ll just leave it at that. Below, I’ve posted scans of my Schramsberg tasting sheet, with my scrawled notes included. It’s kind of a lazy approach, I know, but I have to drive up to Mendocino for wine tasting tomorrow morning, and it’s late. I will quickly acknowledge that the 2006 Schramsberg Brut Rosé ($41) crushes all of the local competition. And as expected, the 2003 Schramsberg J. Schram ($100) is a stunner. I may flesh out some additional details later, but will probably just move on. It’s all pretty much there, anyway. Read it, and weep (bonus points for those who can decipher VC”GD”).

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Tale of Two Chilaquiles: Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros & Miguel’s Restaurant, Calistoga

Thirsty Reader — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 16:40:50 +0000

The Chilaquiles @ Miguel's Restaurant, Calistoga (minus the sour cream)

I was first introduced to chilaquiles while I was living in Los Angeles. Back then, I was working a prep cook at Houston’s Santa Monica, trying to get some real-world kitchen experience before heading off to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Since I was working mostly mornings at that time, the “family meal” at Houston’s was often chilaquiles, which I would best describe as breakfast nachos, for lack of better terminology. These meals would assume varying forms from day to day, based upon whatever was available in the kitchen at the time. That said, there are a couple fundamental rules as to what can be considered chilaquiles and what cannot. As the foundation of the dish, the tortilla chips themselves are inherently fundamental to chilaquiles, and proper chilaquiles should also feature eggs (since it is breakfast), as well as some sort of salsa for added flavor. From that point, however, the recipe can allow for many variations and additions, as many comfort foods tend to do.

When my friend Emmy asked me about chilaquiles a few weeks ago, it got me thinking about the Napa Valley’s options for this dish. I had two restaurants on my radar: (1) the Boonfly Cafe in Napa Carneros and (2) Miguel’s Restaurant in Calistoga. For the regular readers of this blog, Boonfly has long been my favorite local spot for fried chicken, and as part of the Plumpjack Group, the restaurant is fairly well-known, especially since it shares property with the Carneros Inn. In contrast, Miguel’s is tucked away in Calistoga, which is one of the least-trafficked areas in the Napa Valley (few people venture north of St. Helena, it seems). As for myself, Calistoga is approximatetly 30 minutes from where I call home, versus just five minutes down to Carneros.

However, when Emmy mentioned that Hiro Sone, the chef-owner of Terra in St. Helena, would frequent Miguel’s for the chilaquiles, I was naturally intrigued. Perhaps Calistoga needed to become a larger part of my culinary routine, especially if a restaurant like Miguel’s was serving up what I call a “destination” breakfast (that is, something worth the 30-minute drive up-valley). I decided to see what Miguel’s and Boonfly had to offer (someone’s got to). But before I delve further into the breakfast scene, it’s also worth addressing Carneros and Calistoga as they relate to wine.

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Among the 15 recognized wine-growing appellations (AVAs) within the Napa Valley, Calistoga occupies the northernmost region, while Carneros occupies the southernmost region. As one might expect, simple geography implies that these two appellations are quite different from one another, yet each is also markedly different from most of the other Napa Valley AVAs. For the last 30 years or so, the Napa Valley has been synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon, and this will always be the case: AVAs such as Oakville, Rutherford, Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain each excel with this particular varietal, and when people visit Napa to seek out world-class Cabernets, smart money should lead folks to these four areas, at the very least.

On the other hand, one will rarely encounter any noteworthy Cabernets from either Carneros or Calistoga. The fact is, neither region features a climate that suits itself to growing top-quality Cabernet grapes. Carneros, which is just a few short miles from the San Pablo Bay, is far too cool for Cabernet, and so the Burgundian varietals, such Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, take center stage in this region. Thirty miles to the north, Calistoga is easily the warmest region in Napa, and so Zinfandel and Petite Sirah become far more prevalent here than anywhere else in the valley. Frankly, I feel that the Calistoga wineries are much more interesting than the Carneros wineries, but that’s just my own personal preference (I’ll take Zin over Chard, and I prefer my Pinot from Sonoma).

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The Chilaquiles @ Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros

The chilaquiles at Boonfly and Miguel’s are quite different, but both are worth ordering (both are extremely filling, as well). Aside from the requisite tortilla chips and eggs, the Boonfly chilaquiles features chorizo, black beans, salsa verde, and pico de gallo. As you can see from the photo directly above, the egg component is cooked on the flat-top and draped over the entire dish, which makes for an impressive presentation. The entree is served on a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet, which is also a nice touch. At Miguel’s, the tortilla chips and scrambled eggs are finished with salsa roja, a sprinkling of Mexican cheese, and an ample dollop of sour cream and guacamole. The flavors are simple yet amazing, and the dish is also accompanied by strips of marinated grilled steak and fried cubed potatoes, which are delicious in their own right. Among these two versions, I’d probably give the slight edge to Miguel’s, although Boonfly is definitely a worthy plan B, especially if you’re already in Carneros.

Tasting Report: The 10 Best Napa Cabernets for $50 or Less

Thirsty Reader — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 08:04:33 +0000

As I spent 2009 combing the Napa Valley for great wines (the one definite perk of living here and being in the wine business), I decided to pay special attention to the Cabernets that were priced at $50 or less, hoping to one day compile a list of favorites. In order to confirm their merit, I plan to eventually put all of these wines into blind tastings alongside a few of their $100 counterparts, just to see how they fare against the big boys (I suspect that many of these lesser-priced wines will easily rise to the top). But first things first: Although it did take me all of last year, I’ve finally encountered enough outstanding wine to formulate a serious list, and so I’m now prepared to finally put my selections on record. To that end, I submit the following 10 wines, listed in order of preference…

• Martin Estate Bacchanal 2006 ($48) : One of the great unsung wines in the Napa Valley, I have already placed Bacchanal into a blind tasting of Oakville and Rutherford Cabs, pitting it against the 2006 Groth ($58), 2005 Rubicon ($175), 2006 Pedemonte ($39), 2006 Nickel & Nickel John C. Sullenger ($90), and 2006 Paradigm ($62). The Bacchanal won the tasting, with all five wine tasters ranking the wine in the top half (no other wine exhibited such consistent positive marks). My personal favorite was actually the Nickel & Nickel, with the Bacchanal ranking second. Frankly, Martin Estate is a winery that I have long meant to review, but simply haven’t yet.

• Terra Valentine Spring Mountain 2006 ($38) : In my previous review for Terra Valentine, I mentioned that the winery’s single-vineyard Cabs were the wines that originally drew me up to the top of Spring Mountain Road, but that their Spring Mountain Cabernet blend has now become my favorite Terra Valentine wine. This Cabernet features ripe, plush fruit with terrific character and concentration. If you’re spending a day visiting Spring Mountain wineries, make sure to visit Paloma and Behrens-Hitchcock, as well.

• 2006 Turnbull Estate ($45) : Flanked by Nickel & Nickel to the south and Cakebread Cellars to the north, I think that Turnbull is often overlooked by far too many of Napa’s tourists. My notes from my blind tasting of 2005 Oakville Cabernets revealed Turnbull as the clear winner (and the lowest-priced wine in the flight, to boot). One more reason to visit Turnbull: The winery also offers its 2007 Old Bull Red ($19), a tasty catch-all blend and one of the few good Napa reds that you can find for under $20.

• 2005 Heitz Cellars Estate ($42) : After living in the Napa Valley, I have found that the wineries with the greatest histories sometimes have the lowest prices. Many say that the old-timers have that conservative, farming mentality that will see them through good times and more importantly, bad times. The 2005 Heitz Estate Cabernet is an affable wine that boasts big ripe fruit, and I’m always amazed at how long Heitz holds back its releases (I can’t think of many other wineries that still offer a 2005 Cab as their most current vintage). As a result, these wines are often plush right out of the gate.

• 2006 Bennett Lane Maximus ($35) : Maximus is the perennial 90-point “Feasting Wine” that lures folks to drive all the way up to Calistoga, even during the height of summer. It’s bold in the way you might expect for the newly-designated Calistoga AVA, which typically does so well with hot-weather varietals like Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. My last tasting report for Bennett Lane was in December 2008. Although the winery has since discontinued its White Maximus, the proprietary red is still at its consistent best.

• 2007 Chappellet Signature ($47) : For those who have spent any time perusing the “Essay and Oddities” on the right, I have long championed Chappellet as one of the top five wineries in the Napa Valley. The winery, founded in 1967, has great history, a great view from Pritchard Hill, and great wine. With neighbors like Colgin and Bryant Family, Chappellet presents the best value, by far, along Sage Canyon Road. The winery also offers its terrific 2007 Mountain Cuvee ($29), which could’ve made this list on its own (although this wine is just 51% Cabernet).

• 2006 Titus Vineyards ($41) : Chappellet winemaker Phillip Titus owns an eponymous wine label — Titus Vineyards — that also produces a noteworthy low-cost Cabernet. For me, this Cabernet exhibits some similar traits to Chappellet’s terrific estate Cab. Titus Vineyards is another winery that I’ve meant to review more recently, but have not found the time for a more thorough recap. Hopefully, I can coordinate something in the next month or so.

• 2007 Newton Claret ($25) : Another bargain from Spring Mountain Road, the Newton Claret is one of the lowest-priced bottles on the list. Keep in mind, you could actually purchase two full-sized bottles of the Newton Claret, yet still remain within the $50 or less level (impressive). As with Chappellet, the quality of Newton’s lower-priced wine reflects the overall quality of the winery’s portfolio. Newton wines are always a pleasure to drink, and their Red Label Cabernet ($28) is also an over-achiever. Like Bennett Lane’s Maximus, the 2007 Claret is technically a Bordeaux blend, and not an official Cabernet.

• 2006 Dare ($34) : The second label of Viader, the Dare series offers 100% varietal bottlings of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, and Tempranillo, each at the same price. The Dare Cabernet features fantastic pedigree, combining fruit from Viader’s Howell Mountain Estate and from the historic Lewelling Vineyard in St. Helena. I tasted these wines very recently, on the same day as my trip to Ladera.

• 2007 Vincent Arroyo Estate ($36) and 2007 J.J.’s Blend ($20) : Although the strength of Vincent Arroyo lies in its single-vineyard Petite Sirahs, the winery earns kudos for offering a legitimate giant-killer of a Cabernet (and the only wine on the list at less than 14% alcohol), as well as its lighter and less-expensive counterpart (which takes its name from one of the winery’s resident Labradors). The winery remains one of the Napa Valley’s best-kept secrets.

Tasting Notes: Vincent Arroyo and Summers Estate

Thirsty Reader — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 07:57:53 +0000

During the heights of harvest and crush, I’ll often promote Calistoga as a potential refuge from the Napa Valley’s tourist congestion (of course, it requires a trip up to Mendocino wine country to truly leave everything behind). But even in the winter, when things around the entire valley go calm, Calistoga still has its merits. For one thing, I could argue that it’s the most scenic area in the valley this time of year. When the vines themselves don’t present much in terms of foliage, the gnarled and burly vineyards of Calistoga offer much more personality than the slight, naked Cabernet saplings down valley. Not that I don’t love a great Napa Cab.

But it’s also important to remember that although Cabernet may be king, it’s not the entire kingdom. Case in point: two of my favorite Calisotga wineries, Vincent Arroyo and Summers Estate. Aside from their remote northerly locale and their proximity to one another, the two wineries also share another interesting connection — both labels feature a wine that is listed on Slow Food’s Ark of Taste, a compilation of historical, once-popular food items that are now in danger of disappearing from America’s tables. To wit, Summers Estate produces a delicious Charbono, while Vincent Arroyo produces a Napa Gamay (also known as Valdigué).

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Vincent Arroyo remains one of the most under-rated wineries in the Napa Valley, at least to my thinking. For the budget-minded, they currently offer the 2007 Vincent Arroyo Melange (the Napa Gamay blend) and the 2007 Vincent Arroyo J.J.’s Blend, two quaint yet approachable reds, for just $17 and $20, respectively. These are terrific everyday wines that don’t cut any corners and present some of the best values in the Napa Valley. But what really grabbed my attention today was the 2007 Vincent Arroyo Cabernet Sauvignon, a wonderfully plush and complex wine with just under 13.8% alcohol. This latter detail is practically unheard of in this day and age, and a throwback to a more refined style. At just $36 per bottle, this wine is a true giant killer, and is easily the match of its $100 counterparts.

Of course, the main attraction at Vincent Arroyo is actually their Petite Sitrah program, which is the best in the valley. Their 2007 Estate Petite Sirah ($32) had a full flavor with just enough grip to make it noticeable, while the 2007 Vincent Arroyo Greenwood Ranch ($45) presented a more refined texture alongside delicious dark fruit. I knew I had to buy a bottle of the 2007 Cabernet, but I was torn between the two Petite Sirahs. Both wines are very fairly priced, but I decided upon the Greenwood Ranch bottling, just because it demonstrated such great winemaking. Vincent Arroyo’s other single-vineyard Petite Sirah, the 2007 Rattlesnake Acres, was sold out (as usual, although I’ve always preferred the Greenwood, to be honest).

Vincent Arroyo also had several other wines in the flight this afternoon, all sound values throughout, including the 2007 Vincent Arroyo Nameless and the 2007 Vincent Arroyo Bodega. The 2007 Vincent Arroyo Entrada ($65), which is the winery’s Syrah-based blend, was the only wine that did not scream value. And it’s not as if the Entrada is not a great value — I happen to think it’s worth its price — but when there’s also a terrific Cabernet for just $36 in the line-up, it skews the overall perspective. I suppose that Cabernet is king for a reason.

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Summers Estate is one of the world’s last bastions of Charbono, and thankfully, plenty of wine enthusiasts have already picked up on this fact. The last Charbono I tasted was actually at Slow Food’s Third Annual Harvest Dinner at the Bale Grist Mill in Calistoga. That particular wine was the 2006 On the Edge Charbono, which was delightful, and according to my notes from that evening, very similar to the the 2007 Summers Estate Charbono. As a varietal, Charbono exhibits an inherent sweetness, driven not by sugar, but by vibrant dark fruit flavors. Aside from the Summers Charbono, my other favorite wine was the 2007 Summers Estate Zinfandel, which I might even rank alongside the great Zins of Biale (I’m due for a Biale visit to confirm this assumption, however).

One interesting thing that I learned about Summers Estate on this recent visit: They are recruiting a top-level, “name” winemaker to oversee production of their Diamond Mountain Cabernet program. I tried to extract the info, but it’s still very secretive. Could Heidi Barret possibly take on another consulting gig?

Slow Food: The 3rd Annual Harvest Dinner @ Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 03:51:52 +0000

The dining room at Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park

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I spent Saturday evening at the Third Annual Harvest Dinner at the Bale Grist Mill, hosted in conjunction with Slow Food Napa Valley and the Silverado Brewing Company. The event was held to raise money for the mill, which was originally constructed in 1846, and is the only operating mill of its kind west of the Rocky Mountains. The majority of the feast was provided by Number Fourteen, a delicious American mulefoot hog raised locally by chef Michael Fradelizio of the Silverado BrewCo.

Number Fourteen enjoyed an amazing diet of local fallen fruits, spent grains from the SBC, and all sorts of other organically-sourced tidbits (including a “California” brownie to put him at ease on his last day). Through patience and diligence, Number Fourteen grew to become a prodigiously large swine, yielding enough tasty marbled flesh to feed 165 guests at the Bale Grist Mill Dinner. Of course, Number Fourteen appeared in many forms at the country buffet, ranging from pâté to ribs to pulled leg meat (the menu scan posted below lists the accoutrements).

Mulefoot hogs, claimed by many to be the best tasting pigs in America, are the rarest of American swine breeds. Although eating an animal that is facing extinction may sound counter-intuitive, Number Fourteen was raised specifically for this event, and was part of a porcine lineage dedicated to keeping this particular breed alive (if I remember correctly, Number Fourteen is survived by three family members at Fradelizio’s Beer Belly Farms). With the help of this event, the American mulefoot has an improved chance of survival.

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Naturally, there was plenty of beer and wine at the Bale Mill Harvest Dinner, and my favorite wine of the night was the 2006 On the Edge Charbono, which featured a terrific dark fruit profile with an inherent sweetness. I have mentioned Charbono before, in my tasting notes from Summers Estate, but I didn’t realize that the grape itself has its own Slow Food connections, being listed on Slow Food’s U.S. Ark of Taste (along with the American mulefoot hog, of course). Given its rarity, Charbono is difficult to find, but well worth the search.

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All the pork you can eat, and then some

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Detail: The old Bale Grist Mill's 36-foot water wheel

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Number Fourteen: One delicious American mulefoot pig, deconstructed and smoked

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Tasting notes: Bennett Lane Winery

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 10:57:33 +0000

In many ways, I consider Calistoga to be a destination unto itself, a town somehow removed from the rest of the Napa Valley, not only geographically, but in its attitude as well. With the exception of Castello di Amorosa, the gauche opulence that pervades many parts of the Napa Valley seems to be mostly absent in Calistoga, which remains both rural and rugged. Most of my previous entries regarding Calistoga wineries have echoed this sentiment, along with my reminder this (pending) appellation can offer some really terrific wine values.

Certainly, one of the greatest wine values in Calistoga is over at Bennett Lane, which has continued to offer its popular proprietary blend, Maximus, at very reasonable prices. I tend to classify Maximus alongside Newton’s Claret and Chappellet’s Mountain Cuvee, although it is slightly pricier than either of these two wines. On the upside, Bennett Lane does not require a tasting appointment, so visitors can sample and purchase these wines on a casual walk-in basis (both Newton and Chappellet require appointments). I stopped by Bennett Lane the other day to taste their latest releases:

• Of course, the 2005 Bennett Lane Maximus ($35) was a stand-out, as always. The wine, which is primarily a Cabernet and Merlot blend, exhibited a great deal of earthiness, which was supported by noticeable dose of Syrah. The 2005 Bennett Lane Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) was also noteworthy, and one that I would definitely recommend. There are quite a few outstanding Napa Cabs at the $60 price point, and this wine certainly earns a place on the list.

• I tasted a couple whites as well, including the 2007 Bennett Lane White Maximus ($28), which is primarily Sauvignon Blanc, with the addition of Chardonnay and Muscat. Although I really enjoy Sauv Blanc (as well as Sauv Blanc-based blends), the White Maximus is just not as appealing as its red counterpart, and the 2007 vintage will be the winery’s final bottling (which only began in 2005). I also sampled the 2006 Bennett Lane Los Carneros Reserve Chardonnay ($45), which was pleasant, but not to my tastes. I should note that this Chardonnay is about 30% malolactic, which is right at the upper limit of what I prefer.

• The last wine I tasted was the 2005 Bennett Lane Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($95). I enjoyed this wine, but actually felt that the non-reserve bottling had a little more to it. Either way, I felt that both wines were more or less in the same league, which is always a good news-bad news scenario. Fortunately, the non-reserve bottling presents a strong value, but it may ultimately steal the thunder of the reserve offering.

Vincent Arroyo Winery, revisited

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:27:04 +0000

I took a little road trip up to Calistoga this afternoon: a barbecued tri-tip sandwich from Buster’s was my original objective. Along the way, I decided that I should probably stop by to taste the new wines at Vincent Arroyo, since they had just released their newest vintages on Labor Day (an annual tradition at the winery).

I had last tasted at Vincent Arroyo at the end of May. Although I couldn’t recall my specific impressions, I do remember tasting three 2006 barrel samples of their single-vineyard Petite Sirahs, and I remember being duly impressed by all three. I had made a mental note to revisit the winery in September, when I could actually purchase these wines. Well, some of them, anyhow.

When I arrived at Vincent Arroyo, I discovered that one of their single-vineyard Petites — the 2006 Rattlesnake Acres — had already sold out. To be honest, I was a little surprised by this news (but then again, this bottling is one of the winery’s smallest productions). Fortunately, the other two Petite Sirahs were still available in limited quantities, and therefore I did get to sample the 2006 Greenwood Ranch and the 2005 Winemaker’s Reserve.

As it turned out, I favored the 2006 Greenwood Ranch (according to my notes, it was my favorite from the May barrel tasting, as well): it has terrific depth, full fruit, a lasting finish, and for me, just a touch more complexity than the 2005 Winemaker’s Reserve. I purchased a bottle to go.

[For more notes on Vincent Arroyo, you can read the May 31 entry.]

Tasting Notes: Charbono @ Summers Estate, Calistoga

Thirsty Reader — Sat, 21 Jun 2008 08:32:21 +0000

These days, most of the folks who are familiar with Charbono tend to be the old timers. These are the people who remember when Inglenook was one of the Napa Valley’s most reputable wine producers, long before corporate ownership ran the brand completely into the ground (as corporations tend to do). Inglenook, for a good number of years, actually used to bottle quite a bit of Charbono. Throughout the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, the varietal was one of the winery’s more popular offerings, with a devoted customer base.

During its heyday, Inglenook was responsible for much the Charbono plantings that still exist in the Napa Valley today. But now Inglenook only exists as a name — a name to avoid — if you ever happen to troll the lower shelves of your supermarket’s wine section. Charbono’s existence is a bit tenuous as well, although for entirely different reasons. There’s just not that much of it left anymore. However, it does remain in the dedicated hands of a few wineries that are devoted to its legacy.

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If any winery would be synonymous with Charbono now, it would probably be Summers Estate in Calistoga. Worldwide, there are only about 80 acres planted to Charbono, all of them in California, half of them in the Napa Valley (with a very heavy concentration in Calistoga). Summers is one of the leading producers of the varietal, with an annual production of about 1,200 cases. Aside from bottling Charbono, the winery also offers Cabernet, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and a stainless-steel screwcap Chardonnay, LeNude.

I visited Summers tonight for their annual Summers Solstice Blues Bash, a casual affair with a live blues trio and several variations of grilled chicken wings. The winery offered four wines, but I quickly moved to the two reds, which were the 2005 Adrianna’s Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) and the 2006 Estate Charbono Villa Adrianna Vineyard ($24). Both wines present great values, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon, which may be one of the sweetest deals in Napa County (a place where bargains can be few and far between). The Summers Cabernet is a solid work-horse wine, with a finish that lingers far beyond its price-point.

But even though Cab is king in Napa Valley, the Charbono was the wine that the guests most requested tonight, no doubt taking advantage of the opportunity to taste this obscure varietal. The Summers Charbono exhibits clean acidity, a deep inky color, and a distinct blackberry profile that is undeniable. In terms of food pairing, I would be inclined to treat Charbono as I would Zinfandel, drinking it alongside tomato-based dishes. Then again, the dark berry elements would also complement game birds, such as squab or pheasant.

With the Cabernet offering a tremendous value and the Charbono offering a unique yet delicious novelty, I took home both bottles on principle. If you ever trek all the way upvalley to Summers Estate, I recommend doing the same.Summers