Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my [... read more ...]]]>

Gateway Market, Emeryville: Adorned with a fantastic mural alongside its parking lot, the Gateway Market is tough to miss on San Pablo Blvd. The artwork has a definite graffiti vibe, but the details are fantastic. Luckily, it hasn't been tagged over. The "W" in Gateway is pictured above (each letter has its own theme). Click on the photo to reveal all of the great flourishes.

Most of these pictures have never appeared on this site, although a couple did appear a few years ago, long before I sharpened my photo-editing skills. Many readers have emailed me about my approach to photography, and I must confess, my only real secret is to simply seek the best lighting possible. Truthfully, I’ve never had any formal photography training, but I did develop an eye for proper lighting while I was working (briefly, almost 15 years ago) as a grip in Los Angeles. Any moviegoer who has bothered to sit through the credits may have wondered what function a grip serves. In a nut shell, the grips help to manipulate the film set’s lighting, based upon the director of photography’s instructions. The “key” grip is the lead grip, while the “best boy” grip is second in command (I was never either of those, obviously). Much like cooking, gripping is long, laborious work with odd hours. However, if you pay attention on the job, you can also learn a few things along the way. Who knew that a summer of gripping would’ve ever become useful?

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Uni with Caul Fat on Crostini @ Marea, NYC: Long before Anthony Bourdain developed his upcoming show, The Layover, which premieres November 21st, I used a four-hour window at JFK to jump onto the subway and eat a seven-course lunch at Marea (top that, Tony). David Koon, my old CIA roommate, was in the kitchen at the time, so I received the VIP treatment, and fast. Coincidentally, Dave opened up his own restaurant, Chuko Ramen, just two days ago in Brooklyn. He said the 35-seat dining room turned out more than 200 covers on its first day, which is an insane number.

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Highway One, Near Salt Point State Park: I was driving up California's North Coast to forage porcinis when I spotted this old fellow gazing out over the Pacific Ocean. He was laying near the edge of the grassy cliff, apparently in total zen mode. Unfortunately, he stood up when I approached to snap a picture. After a two-minute stand-off, I gave up and left him to his meditations. Sorry, buddy.

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Philo Apple Farm, Philo: This large painting adorns the small shopping area at Philo Apple Farm, which is owned by Don and Sally Schmidt, the original owners and founders of Yountville's French Laundry. All purchases are based upon the honor system (at least every time I've visited), and the farm itself is Demeter-certified.

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Nopalito Restaurant, San Francisco: I really like the artwork on this ice-cream freezer outside of Nopalito.

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Five-spice Pork Belly over Rice: This is one of the very first pictures I published on this blog, back at a time when I was publishing recipes. My format has evolved over the years, and at this point, I save all my recipes for the annual Project Food Blog competition, which is coming up again this year (I finished in the Top 12 out of almost 2,000 contestants last year -- just saying).

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Mandina's Restaurant, New Orleans: My sentimental favorite in the Crescent City.

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The Strip District, Pittsburgh, PA: This mural was a work-in-progress during my visit to Pennsylvania a couple years back. I'm sure it's completed by now. I liked where it was headed.

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Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros: I spotted this little VW in the parking lot of the Boonfly Cafe one morning. I'm not sure if it belonged to a purveyor or to a guest. Pretty cool whip, regardless.

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Cookie Fortune @ China Village Restaurant, Albany: I think.

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Unless I’m missing something, the Napa Valley offers just two reliable versions of chicken and waffles, both of which are located at the very southern end of the valley, along the scenic Carneros Highway, separated by just a few miles of rolling hills and perhaps one or two stoplights. Of course, the Boon Fly Cafe and the Fremont Diner are the two restaurants [... read more ...]]]>

Chicken & Waffles @ the Boon Fly Cafe (blue plate) and the Fremont Diner (white plate): It's always nice too see an upward trend in the Southern-fried sector. Images can be super-sized with a click.

Unless I’m missing something, the Napa Valley offers just two reliable versions of chicken and waffles, both of which are located at the very southern end of the valley, along the scenic Carneros Highway, separated by just a few miles of rolling hills and perhaps one or two stoplights. Of course, the Boon Fly Cafe and the Fremont Diner are the two restaurants in question, the latter residing in Sonoma County, but certainly close enough to Napa to warrant consideration. Of the two, my preferred version of chicken and waffles is the Boon Fly Cafe’s version, a natural choice since I’ve long argued that Boon Fly offers the best fried chicken in the area, hands down (Ad Hoc included). The Boon Fly Cafe’s waffle, billed on the menu as a “malt” waffle, neither hinders nor helps the dish, and although the bacon-cheddar waffle at the Fremont Diner does make up some ground in this contest, the heavy breading on the Fremont fried chicken proves a bit much for my tastes — I’m more interested in the bird than the batter.

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If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza [... read more ...]]]>

Pizzas on Parade (clockwise, from upper left): Oenotri, Solbar, Redd, Pizzeria Azzurro, Auberge du Soleil, Uva, Cantinara Piero, Ca' Momi, Boon Fly Cafe, Pizzeria Tra Vigne, Papa Joe's, Bistro Don Giovanni.

If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza remain highly subjective, and plenty of effort has already been spent hashing out the pizza-related differences between Chicago, New York, and the rest of the country. However, I chose not to acknowledge any of those debates concerning thin crusts or deep dishes. For this segment, I set out to answer just one very hands-on question: Who offers the best pizza in the Napa Valley?

In gathering my data, I’ve eaten 15 small pizzas in the span of about six short weeks, which some folks may view as excessive. Whatever. I had originally intended to feature maybe six or seven pies, but as this review began to assume a life of its own, I pushed that number to 10, and eventually 12 pizzas. As for my guidelines, there weren’t any, really: Any non-chain restaurant earned consideration, so long as it was located within the Napa Valley. As a result, this review encompasses quite a broad spectrum of pizzas, from specialty pizza joints, to mom-and-pop style parlors, to Michelin-star restaurants. The following mishmash of eateries really speaks to the universal nature of pizza itself — otherwise, how else could you possibly compare Papa Joe’s with Auberge du Soleil?

Pizza Margherita with Pancetta @ Oenotri, Downtown Napa

Like many of the top pizzas on this list, Oenotri is a relatively new addition to Downtown Napa, having opened in early 2010. I would argue that, aside from Morimoto opening his restaurant in July, the addition of Oenotri was Downtown Napa’s biggest boon in 2010. Oenotri specializes in rustic, Southern Italian cuisine, including pizzas fired in their wood-fueled oven from Naples. Personally, I prefer a light and airy crust with elements of charring, which is exactly what Oenotri delivers. Like many of Napa’s top pizzas, Oenotri relies upon a thin crust, enough so that their pizzas cook up in less than 90 seconds at 800ºF. These times and temperatures actually adhere to an Italian standard, and are certified by a Neopolitan consorzio that regulates pizza in the same manner that another consorzio might regulate wine, cheese, or balsamic vinegar. Quick cooking at high temperatures allows for rampant bubbling within the dough, which I can also appreciate; I’ve always viewed the bubbled oddities as the best pieces.

The #11: Porchetta Rucola e Grana Pizza @ Ca' Momi, Oxbow Market, Napa

Located inside the Oxbow Market in Napa, Ca’ Momi is so new to Napa that it wasn’t open when I first began my pizza odyssey. The crust on this pie features a satisfying crispiness, a pleasant smokiness, and great overall character. In contrast to the Campania-inspired pizzas at Oenotri, the pizza at Ca’ Momi skews more towards Venice, and the #11 features baby arugula, large flakes of grana padano cheese, and tender strips of roasted pork. It’s a superb pie, and this new-comer to Napa Valley certainly deserves early consideration. One great perk about ordering pizza at Ca’ Moma is that the rest of Oxbow Market is at your feet, and it’s easy to pass the time while the pizza bakes (diners at Ca’ Momi are given pagers to alert them when the pizzas are ready, so window shopping is encouraged). Along with Pica Pica Maize Kitchen (which opened in 2008), Ca’ Momi has really helped to make Oxbow Market an attractive destination.

Salsiccia Pizza @ Pizzeria Azzurro, Downtown Napa

The Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is one of my favorite pies, and there are certainly days when this selection might rank at the top for me. Azzurro has led the pizza movement in Downtown Napa, having first opened its doors at the smaller Second Street location in 2001. In 2008, Azzurro moved to its current location at First and Clinton, a space that now offers ample seating, though lunchtime can still prove crowded. In my mind, the Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is perhaps Napa’s closest relative to New York Style pizza. If you look closely, the tiny blisters on the darkest parts of the crust reveal the pizza’s inherent crispiness. The Salsiccia features fennel sausage, red onions, and mozzarella cheese.

Compared to the wood-fired pizzas from Oenotri and Ca’ Momi (talk about two restaurants with unique names), the pizza at Cantinetta Piero most resembles the latter. Like a proper baguette, the crust of Piero’s pizza can throw some considerable crumbs. It’s the kind of crust you could tear open and butter, that is, if you actually had the gluttonous nerve to butter pizza. I thought about it, and in the eyes of the law, that’s practically the same thing as doing it. Piero’s Funghi pizza features an intense, slightly-sweet schmear of caramelized onions, which for me, borders on onion marmalade.

The Maitake Mushroom Pizza @ Solbar, Calistoga

Hands down, the Maitake mushroom pizza at Solbar is the Napa Valley’s best up-valley option for great pizza, and it’s the only pizza available on the Silverado Trail, as far as I know. The dough at Solbar is based upon a biga-style starter, which cultivates and propagates the yeasts, developing a more complex flavor within the crust. Traditionally, Italian bakers use a biga starter for making ciabatta bread, and Solbar’s pizza crust definitely features some ciabatta-like characteristics within the crumb. The pizza dough is made without sugar, ensuring a relatively light color, even after the dough has finished cooking. In terms of the pizza toppings, I also admire the simplicity of the maitake mushrooms and the cave-aged gruyere, which both lend an earthy-nutty component to the pie.

Prosciutto Pizza @ Redd, Yountville

The bar menu at Redd is one of my favorite menus in the entire Napa Valley. In fact, I rarely order pizza at Redd, since the hoisin pork buns or the sweet-and-spicy Thai chicken wings often take precedent for me. The pizza at Redd is dressed after-the-fact, which represents a bit of an uncommon approach. If I can deconstruct this pizza accurately, I suspect that the dough is sprinkled with cheese before it’s baked, but it also receives a layer of prosciutto, arugula, and cheese after it emerges from the oven. The prosciutto, in particular, is generous by most comparisons, and it blankets the pie nicely for wall-to-wall flavor. Aside from its bar menu, Redd also has one of the best dessert menus in the Napa Valley, though the former pastry chef has since taken a position at Cyrus.

Duck Pizza with Egg @ Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford

On the right day in the Napa Valley, the pizza at Auberge du Soleil could easily rank higher on this list than sixth. It all depends upon the weather and the view, really, since Auberge offers one of the Napa Valley’s most impressive lunchtime vistas. Although I spent a year at Auberge working as a line cook, I was rarely ever treated to this view, but I did see plenty of foie gras during that time. Along with the two previous pies from Solbar and Redd, the pizza at Auberge rounds out the list of Michelin-star restaurants within this column. To that end, Auberge offers much more than a view, if you really want to splurge; the restaurant’s wine list resembles a phone book, and the bar offers 35 wines by the glass. Yes, 35.

The Positano Pizza with Extra Lemons @ Pizzeria Tra Vigne, St. Helena

Pizzeria Tra Vigne is an adjunct to Tra Vigne Restaurant, which first gained notoriety under chef Michael Chiarello in the 1990′s. These days, Tra Vigne only has the ghosts of Michael Chiarello, while the man himself can be seen several nights a week in the kitchen (and the dining room) at Bottega, which will celebrate its second anniversary this month. Anyhow, I don’t frequent Tra Vigne proper, although I do enjoy the pies that emerge from the adjacent pizzeria. For me, the fried lemon slices on the Positano pizza are addictive, though I know other folks who feel the same. Crescenza cheese and tender shrimp complete the pizza, and the three flavors represent a very compelling combination. The crust holds its own, as well.

The Shrimp and Artichoke Pizza @ Papa Joe's Pizza, Napa

Although Tra Vigne definitely leans in the same direction, Papa Joe’s Pizza crosses into what I call “parlor” territory. Shameless and robust, parlor pizza is what I grew up on as a kid, living in the California suburbs. These are pizzas that demand a splash of Louisiana hot sauce — or perhaps Sriracha — because they have enough stuffing to stand up to the spice. Among Napa’s pizza parlors, Papa Joe’s is the oldest and the best, although it’s delivery and takeout only (thus, the cardboard carrying case pictured above). In the pizza pictured above, the marinated artichokes are an apt counter-point to the sweet, cocktail-sized shrimp. Pound for pound, this was probably the heaviest pizza of the bunch.

Bambini Pizza @ Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa

Although I have seen potatoes on pizza at some venerable New Haven pie shops, this approach is a bit different. Pizza purists may roll their eyes at the Bambini pizza at Bistro Don Giovanni, however, if you were to swap the french fries for some fresh basil, then you’ve got yourself a very serviceable margherita. Whenever I’ve ordered the Bambini, the servers often ask if I want any ketchup on the side for the fries. Truthfully, the contrast between ketchup and tomato sauce is somewhat off-putting for me; I recommend ordering the pizza with a side of aioli instead. If you’re looking for something a little less inventive, Bistro Don Giovanni also offers more traditional pizzas. However, I would be more than remiss to compile a list of Napa Valley pizzas without acknowledging the Bambini.

Margherita Flatbread with Pepperoni @ Boon Fly Cafe, Napa Carneros

I included the Margherita flatbread from the Boon Fly Cafe, even though the restaurant doesn’t actually list this item as a “pizza” per se. To be honest, I’m not sure that this approach is completely fair, since the flatbread pictured above does not exhibit the same character as some of the previous pizza doughs, with their ample crusts and interesting textures. Perhaps this pie had never really aspired to be anything other than a flatbread, so I’m not sure whether or not Boon Fly’s margherita should actually be juxtaposed with the other pizzas on this list. Ultimately, however, I decided that since the BFC flatbread uses “margherita” in its description (and also offers a pepperoni add-on), it’s fair game. Unfortunately, it’s mostly out-matched by the previous pies.

Margherita Pizza @ Uva Traittoria, Downtown Napa

Although I’ve had a quite a few nice dishes at Uva Traittoria, the day I tasted their Margherita pizza, it struck me as slightly bland, to the extent that I wondered if I had done something to mute my taste buds leading up to lunch. I added crushed red pepper flakes to wake it up, but it probably just needed a pinch of salt in the sauce and perhaps the dough (since mozzarella burrata is inherently on the bland side, I think it needs the help of the other ingredients). A healthy dose of grated parmesan might’ve also made the difference.

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I was first introduced to chilaquiles while I was living in Los Angeles. Back then, I was working a prep cook at Houston’s Santa Monica, trying to get some real-world kitchen experience before heading off to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Since I was working mostly mornings at that time, the “family meal” at Houston’s was often chilaquiles, which I would best describe as breakfast nachos, for lack of better terminology. These meals would assume varying forms from day to day, based upon whatever [... read more ...]]]>

The Chilaquiles @ Miguel's Restaurant, Calistoga (minus the sour cream)

I was first introduced to chilaquiles while I was living in Los Angeles. Back then, I was working a prep cook at Houston’s Santa Monica, trying to get some real-world kitchen experience before heading off to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Since I was working mostly mornings at that time, the “family meal” at Houston’s was often chilaquiles, which I would best describe as breakfast nachos, for lack of better terminology. These meals would assume varying forms from day to day, based upon whatever was available in the kitchen at the time. That said, there are a couple fundamental rules as to what can be considered chilaquiles and what cannot. As the foundation of the dish, the tortilla chips themselves are inherently fundamental to chilaquiles, and proper chilaquiles should also feature eggs (since it is breakfast), as well as some sort of salsa for added flavor. From that point, however, the recipe can allow for many variations and additions, as many comfort foods tend to do.

When my friend Emmy asked me about chilaquiles a few weeks ago, it got me thinking about the Napa Valley’s options for this dish. I had two restaurants on my radar: (1) the Boonfly Cafe in Napa Carneros and (2) Miguel’s Restaurant in Calistoga. For the regular readers of this blog, Boonfly has long been my favorite local spot for fried chicken, and as part of the Plumpjack Group, the restaurant is fairly well-known, especially since it shares property with the Carneros Inn. In contrast, Miguel’s is tucked away in Calistoga, which is one of the least-trafficked areas in the Napa Valley (few people venture north of St. Helena, it seems). As for myself, Calistoga is approximatetly 30 minutes from where I call home, versus just five minutes down to Carneros.

However, when Emmy mentioned that Hiro Sone, the chef-owner of Terra in St. Helena, would frequent Miguel’s for the chilaquiles, I was naturally intrigued. Perhaps Calistoga needed to become a larger part of my culinary routine, especially if a restaurant like Miguel’s was serving up what I call a “destination” breakfast (that is, something worth the 30-minute drive up-valley). I decided to see what Miguel’s and Boonfly had to offer (someone’s got to). But before I delve further into the breakfast scene, it’s also worth addressing Carneros and Calistoga as they relate to wine.

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Among the 15 recognized wine-growing appellations (AVAs) within the Napa Valley, Calistoga occupies the northernmost region, while Carneros occupies the southernmost region. As one might expect, simple geography implies that these two appellations are quite different from one another, yet each is also markedly different from most of the other Napa Valley AVAs. For the last 30 years or so, the Napa Valley has been synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon, and this will always be the case: AVAs such as Oakville, Rutherford, Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain each excel with this particular varietal, and when people visit Napa to seek out world-class Cabernets, smart money should lead folks to these four areas, at the very least.

On the other hand, one will rarely encounter any noteworthy Cabernets from either Carneros or Calistoga. The fact is, neither region features a climate that suits itself to growing top-quality Cabernet grapes. Carneros, which is just a few short miles from the San Pablo Bay, is far too cool for Cabernet, and so the Burgundian varietals, such Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, take center stage in this region. Thirty miles to the north, Calistoga is easily the warmest region in Napa, and so Zinfandel and Petite Sirah become far more prevalent here than anywhere else in the valley. Frankly, I feel that the Calistoga wineries are much more interesting than the Carneros wineries, but that’s just my own personal preference (I’ll take Zin over Chard, and I prefer my Pinot from Sonoma).

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The Chilaquiles @ Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros

The chilaquiles at Boonfly and Miguel’s are quite different, but both are worth ordering (both are extremely filling, as well). Aside from the requisite tortilla chips and eggs, the Boonfly chilaquiles features chorizo, black beans, salsa verde, and pico de gallo. As you can see from the photo directly above, the egg component is cooked on the flat-top and draped over the entire dish, which makes for an impressive presentation. The entree is served on a screaming-hot cast-iron skillet, which is also a nice touch. At Miguel’s, the tortilla chips and scrambled eggs are finished with salsa roja, a sprinkling of Mexican cheese, and an ample dollop of sour cream and guacamole. The flavors are simple yet amazing, and the dish is also accompanied by strips of marinated grilled steak and fried cubed potatoes, which are delicious in their own right. Among these two versions, I’d probably give the slight edge to Miguel’s, although Boonfly is definitely a worthy plan B, especially if you’re already in Carneros.

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