When I was working as a wine educator in Rutherford and Oakville, quick lunch options were unusually scarce. Aside from an occasional Dean & DeLuca sandwich, Mexican food was the only feasible option up valley — not that I ever complained all that much. Being a native of California, Mexican food will always be a staple for me, and the tacos on this page represent literally hundreds of past lunches, especially the tacos al pastor at La Luna Market, pictured above. Conservatively, I’ve eaten over one thousand tacos at La [... read more ...]]]>

Al Pastor Tacos @ La Luna Market, Rutherford.

When I was working as a wine educator in Rutherford and Oakville, quick lunch options were unusually scarce. Aside from an occasional Dean & DeLuca sandwich, Mexican food was the only feasible option up valley — not that I ever complained all that much. Being a native of California, Mexican food will always be a staple for me, and the tacos on this page represent literally hundreds of past lunches, especially the tacos al pastor at La Luna Market, pictured above. Conservatively, I’ve eaten over one thousand tacos at La Luna (at an average of about eight tacos per week for over three years, you do the math). Of course, with that many visits to one taqueria, I’ve sampled La Luna’s entire menu several times over, but at this point, I’ve distilled my go-to selections down to just two choices: their tacos al pastor, or their carnitas (extra crispy) super burrito.

I’ll save the burrito discussion for another time, but La Luna’s al pastor tacos are quite good, if a bit uneven sometimes. At their best, the ground pork has been rendered enough to have a few crispy bits, with the red sauce providing just enough piquant heat. Now that I’ve returned to professional cooking, my trips to La Luna have lessened significantly, but the hopes of on-point al pastor will still lure me up to Rutherford. On the other hand, if I’m in the mood for carne asada, I’ve found that the shrewd move is to drive a bit further to the north, up to Azteca Market in St. Helena. Azteca and La Luna are similar in the sense that both taquerias operate within small convenience stores, although Azteca’s carne asada is superior to that of its Rutherford counterpart. Pictured below, Azteca’s carne asada tacos feature a delicious salsa verde, though my only complaint is that sometimes the meat could be chopped a bit smaller.

Carne Asada @ Azteca Market, St. Helena.

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I scheduled a wine-tasting session at Quintessa last week, and if there’s one thing that I appreciate about Quintessa’s format, it’s the rare opportunity to taste a three-year vertical of premium Napa Cabernet. At the moment, Quintessa is pouring its 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages, and I carefully evaluated all [... read more ...]]]>

Quintessa features a unique and creative set-up for wine-making: The grapes are sorted and destemmed at roof level, then gravity-fed into the winery via the skylights. The custom-made conduit, pictured above, funnels the grapes from the skylights into the fermentation tanks below (click the photo for higher resolution).

I scheduled a wine-tasting session at Quintessa last week, and if there’s one thing that I appreciate about Quintessa’s format, it’s the rare opportunity to taste a three-year vertical of premium Napa Cabernet. At the moment, Quintessa is pouring its 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages, and I carefully evaluated all three wines side-by-side. My conclusion: The 2007 Quintessa offers lush red fruit on the palate, with elements of cherry and ripe raspberry (extremely approachable for a current release); the 2006 Quintessa remains the most emblematic of the Rutherford appellation, with its long, dry, dusty finish; and the 2005 Quintessa, despite its additional age, still seems to offer the biggest tannins of the bunch.

With prices at $145-$150 per bottle, I certainly wouldn’t cite Quintessa as a bargain, but the wines are well-made, no doubt. If I had to choose one wine to purchase, it would probably be the 2006 vintage, for its distinct Rutherford character. However, most people will probably gravitate towards the user-friendly 2007 vintage, which is understandable.

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Back when I first moved to the Napa Valley, I took a job as a line cook at Auberge du Soleil, and despite two years of chef school and several years of prior professional experience, Auberge proved to be an education unto itself. It not only redefined my standards, but it also redefined stress and adrenaline. These elements are inseparable, especially with Michelin-star cooking, and I reserve so much respect and admiration for the line cooks who [... read more ...]]]>

The banh mi sandwich @ Auberge du Soleil, with a yellow and green bean salad (not pictured: Auberge's unrivaled patio view).

Back when I first moved to the Napa Valley, I took a job as a line cook at Auberge du Soleil, and despite two years of chef school and several years of prior professional experience, Auberge proved to be an education unto itself. It not only redefined my standards, but it also redefined stress and adrenaline. These elements are inseparable, especially with Michelin-star cooking, and I reserve so much respect and admiration for the line cooks who can list two- and three-Michelin star restaurants on their resumes. The folks who ascend to those kitchens are far more passionate and dedicated than I ever was (and they possess far more culinary insight than any food writer, with very few exceptions).

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Having left the kitchen several years ago, I returned to Auberge as a diner on Monday, ostensibly for the $20.11 two-course lunch special, a Monday-through-Friday offer that ends this January. My friend Laura mentioned that when she had lunch at Auberge last week, the restaurant was offering its kurobuta pork chop as the special. Wow, a kurobuta pork chop and a first course for just $20.11? And at Auberge, no less? That is, by far, the best deal in the Napa Valley (Bouchon’s $25 late-night dinner is the second-best deal; that offer also ends next week). As you might imagine, I was really crossing my fingers for the pork chop today, but alas, the asparagus risotto had displaced it as the lunch special. Ah yes, the asparagus risotto. I’d spent so many nights at Auberge cooking that very dish, and asparagus itself really isn’t my favorite vegetable (at all), so I had to reconsider my options at the last minute, deal or no deal.

On a whim, I decided to order the banh mi sandwich, which is a Monday-only lunch item. Most people will scoff when I mention that Auberge sells their banh mi for a cool $21. I know, I know, I get it, completely: The humble banh mi is a $2 sandwich in some parts of the Bay Area (I’ve had most of them). But remember, Auberge du Soleil is a Relais & Châteaux property, so all of the thoughtful perks are factored into the pricing. The reality is, for most of the people who actually stay at Auberge, a $21 banh mi sandwich is an eminently affordable luxury that doesn’t even warrant a second thought. For me, it’s a relatively cheap passport into high society, and I must admit, the sandwich captures all of the spirit and flavors of banh mi, with some pedigree.

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The dessert arrived compliments of the house, and not because of this blog, believe me. It’s always great to have friends in the business. The Napa Valley is awfully small, and I still know way too many folks at Auberge to offer an unbiased restaurant review, but take a look at the pictures, especially that beautifully-composed dessert, and you tell me, was it delicious?

Baked phyllo dumplings with warm ganache centers, and tarragon ice cream (back in the day, my favorite flavor to raid after service).

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If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza [... read more ...]]]>

Pizzas on Parade (clockwise, from upper left): Oenotri, Solbar, Redd, Pizzeria Azzurro, Auberge du Soleil, Uva, Cantinara Piero, Ca' Momi, Boon Fly Cafe, Pizzeria Tra Vigne, Papa Joe's, Bistro Don Giovanni.

If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza remain highly subjective, and plenty of effort has already been spent hashing out the pizza-related differences between Chicago, New York, and the rest of the country. However, I chose not to acknowledge any of those debates concerning thin crusts or deep dishes. For this segment, I set out to answer just one very hands-on question: Who offers the best pizza in the Napa Valley?

In gathering my data, I’ve eaten 15 small pizzas in the span of about six short weeks, which some folks may view as excessive. Whatever. I had originally intended to feature maybe six or seven pies, but as this review began to assume a life of its own, I pushed that number to 10, and eventually 12 pizzas. As for my guidelines, there weren’t any, really: Any non-chain restaurant earned consideration, so long as it was located within the Napa Valley. As a result, this review encompasses quite a broad spectrum of pizzas, from specialty pizza joints, to mom-and-pop style parlors, to Michelin-star restaurants. The following mishmash of eateries really speaks to the universal nature of pizza itself — otherwise, how else could you possibly compare Papa Joe’s with Auberge du Soleil?

Pizza Margherita with Pancetta @ Oenotri, Downtown Napa

Like many of the top pizzas on this list, Oenotri is a relatively new addition to Downtown Napa, having opened in early 2010. I would argue that, aside from Morimoto opening his restaurant in July, the addition of Oenotri was Downtown Napa’s biggest boon in 2010. Oenotri specializes in rustic, Southern Italian cuisine, including pizzas fired in their wood-fueled oven from Naples. Personally, I prefer a light and airy crust with elements of charring, which is exactly what Oenotri delivers. Like many of Napa’s top pizzas, Oenotri relies upon a thin crust, enough so that their pizzas cook up in less than 90 seconds at 800ºF. These times and temperatures actually adhere to an Italian standard, and are certified by a Neopolitan consorzio that regulates pizza in the same manner that another consorzio might regulate wine, cheese, or balsamic vinegar. Quick cooking at high temperatures allows for rampant bubbling within the dough, which I can also appreciate; I’ve always viewed the bubbled oddities as the best pieces.

The #11: Porchetta Rucola e Grana Pizza @ Ca' Momi, Oxbow Market, Napa

Located inside the Oxbow Market in Napa, Ca’ Momi is so new to Napa that it wasn’t open when I first began my pizza odyssey. The crust on this pie features a satisfying crispiness, a pleasant smokiness, and great overall character. In contrast to the Campania-inspired pizzas at Oenotri, the pizza at Ca’ Momi skews more towards Venice, and the #11 features baby arugula, large flakes of grana padano cheese, and tender strips of roasted pork. It’s a superb pie, and this new-comer to Napa Valley certainly deserves early consideration. One great perk about ordering pizza at Ca’ Moma is that the rest of Oxbow Market is at your feet, and it’s easy to pass the time while the pizza bakes (diners at Ca’ Momi are given pagers to alert them when the pizzas are ready, so window shopping is encouraged). Along with Pica Pica Maize Kitchen (which opened in 2008), Ca’ Momi has really helped to make Oxbow Market an attractive destination.

Salsiccia Pizza @ Pizzeria Azzurro, Downtown Napa

The Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is one of my favorite pies, and there are certainly days when this selection might rank at the top for me. Azzurro has led the pizza movement in Downtown Napa, having first opened its doors at the smaller Second Street location in 2001. In 2008, Azzurro moved to its current location at First and Clinton, a space that now offers ample seating, though lunchtime can still prove crowded. In my mind, the Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is perhaps Napa’s closest relative to New York Style pizza. If you look closely, the tiny blisters on the darkest parts of the crust reveal the pizza’s inherent crispiness. The Salsiccia features fennel sausage, red onions, and mozzarella cheese.

Compared to the wood-fired pizzas from Oenotri and Ca’ Momi (talk about two restaurants with unique names), the pizza at Cantinetta Piero most resembles the latter. Like a proper baguette, the crust of Piero’s pizza can throw some considerable crumbs. It’s the kind of crust you could tear open and butter, that is, if you actually had the gluttonous nerve to butter pizza. I thought about it, and in the eyes of the law, that’s practically the same thing as doing it. Piero’s Funghi pizza features an intense, slightly-sweet schmear of caramelized onions, which for me, borders on onion marmalade.

The Maitake Mushroom Pizza @ Solbar, Calistoga

Hands down, the Maitake mushroom pizza at Solbar is the Napa Valley’s best up-valley option for great pizza, and it’s the only pizza available on the Silverado Trail, as far as I know. The dough at Solbar is based upon a biga-style starter, which cultivates and propagates the yeasts, developing a more complex flavor within the crust. Traditionally, Italian bakers use a biga starter for making ciabatta bread, and Solbar’s pizza crust definitely features some ciabatta-like characteristics within the crumb. The pizza dough is made without sugar, ensuring a relatively light color, even after the dough has finished cooking. In terms of the pizza toppings, I also admire the simplicity of the maitake mushrooms and the cave-aged gruyere, which both lend an earthy-nutty component to the pie.

Prosciutto Pizza @ Redd, Yountville

The bar menu at Redd is one of my favorite menus in the entire Napa Valley. In fact, I rarely order pizza at Redd, since the hoisin pork buns or the sweet-and-spicy Thai chicken wings often take precedent for me. The pizza at Redd is dressed after-the-fact, which represents a bit of an uncommon approach. If I can deconstruct this pizza accurately, I suspect that the dough is sprinkled with cheese before it’s baked, but it also receives a layer of prosciutto, arugula, and cheese after it emerges from the oven. The prosciutto, in particular, is generous by most comparisons, and it blankets the pie nicely for wall-to-wall flavor. Aside from its bar menu, Redd also has one of the best dessert menus in the Napa Valley, though the former pastry chef has since taken a position at Cyrus.

Duck Pizza with Egg @ Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford

On the right day in the Napa Valley, the pizza at Auberge du Soleil could easily rank higher on this list than sixth. It all depends upon the weather and the view, really, since Auberge offers one of the Napa Valley’s most impressive lunchtime vistas. Although I spent a year at Auberge working as a line cook, I was rarely ever treated to this view, but I did see plenty of foie gras during that time. Along with the two previous pies from Solbar and Redd, the pizza at Auberge rounds out the list of Michelin-star restaurants within this column. To that end, Auberge offers much more than a view, if you really want to splurge; the restaurant’s wine list resembles a phone book, and the bar offers 35 wines by the glass. Yes, 35.

The Positano Pizza with Extra Lemons @ Pizzeria Tra Vigne, St. Helena

Pizzeria Tra Vigne is an adjunct to Tra Vigne Restaurant, which first gained notoriety under chef Michael Chiarello in the 1990′s. These days, Tra Vigne only has the ghosts of Michael Chiarello, while the man himself can be seen several nights a week in the kitchen (and the dining room) at Bottega, which will celebrate its second anniversary this month. Anyhow, I don’t frequent Tra Vigne proper, although I do enjoy the pies that emerge from the adjacent pizzeria. For me, the fried lemon slices on the Positano pizza are addictive, though I know other folks who feel the same. Crescenza cheese and tender shrimp complete the pizza, and the three flavors represent a very compelling combination. The crust holds its own, as well.

The Shrimp and Artichoke Pizza @ Papa Joe's Pizza, Napa

Although Tra Vigne definitely leans in the same direction, Papa Joe’s Pizza crosses into what I call “parlor” territory. Shameless and robust, parlor pizza is what I grew up on as a kid, living in the California suburbs. These are pizzas that demand a splash of Louisiana hot sauce — or perhaps Sriracha — because they have enough stuffing to stand up to the spice. Among Napa’s pizza parlors, Papa Joe’s is the oldest and the best, although it’s delivery and takeout only (thus, the cardboard carrying case pictured above). In the pizza pictured above, the marinated artichokes are an apt counter-point to the sweet, cocktail-sized shrimp. Pound for pound, this was probably the heaviest pizza of the bunch.

Bambini Pizza @ Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa

Although I have seen potatoes on pizza at some venerable New Haven pie shops, this approach is a bit different. Pizza purists may roll their eyes at the Bambini pizza at Bistro Don Giovanni, however, if you were to swap the french fries for some fresh basil, then you’ve got yourself a very serviceable margherita. Whenever I’ve ordered the Bambini, the servers often ask if I want any ketchup on the side for the fries. Truthfully, the contrast between ketchup and tomato sauce is somewhat off-putting for me; I recommend ordering the pizza with a side of aioli instead. If you’re looking for something a little less inventive, Bistro Don Giovanni also offers more traditional pizzas. However, I would be more than remiss to compile a list of Napa Valley pizzas without acknowledging the Bambini.

Margherita Flatbread with Pepperoni @ Boon Fly Cafe, Napa Carneros

I included the Margherita flatbread from the Boon Fly Cafe, even though the restaurant doesn’t actually list this item as a “pizza” per se. To be honest, I’m not sure that this approach is completely fair, since the flatbread pictured above does not exhibit the same character as some of the previous pizza doughs, with their ample crusts and interesting textures. Perhaps this pie had never really aspired to be anything other than a flatbread, so I’m not sure whether or not Boon Fly’s margherita should actually be juxtaposed with the other pizzas on this list. Ultimately, however, I decided that since the BFC flatbread uses “margherita” in its description (and also offers a pepperoni add-on), it’s fair game. Unfortunately, it’s mostly out-matched by the previous pies.

Margherita Pizza @ Uva Traittoria, Downtown Napa

Although I’ve had a quite a few nice dishes at Uva Traittoria, the day I tasted their Margherita pizza, it struck me as slightly bland, to the extent that I wondered if I had done something to mute my taste buds leading up to lunch. I added crushed red pepper flakes to wake it up, but it probably just needed a pinch of salt in the sauce and perhaps the dough (since mozzarella burrata is inherently on the bland side, I think it needs the help of the other ingredients). A healthy dose of grated parmesan might’ve also made the difference.

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Since I have lived here in the Napa Valley, I have visited each of these three wineries countless times [... read more ...]]]> I realize that Memorial Day is all about remembering those who served our country, but since I also had the day to go wine tasting, I decided it would be somewhat appropriate to visit a few of the pioneering wineries here in the Napa Valley, in order to sample the current releases from such stalwarts as Grgich Hills, Heitz Cellars and Duckhorn Wine Company (I had Chateau Montelena on my itinerary as well, but they were closed for the holiday).

Since I have lived here in the Napa Valley, I have visited each of these three wineries countless times (not counting the year when I actually worked over at Grgich Hills). As far as I’m concerned, all three of these wineries are good, and for anyone who doesn’t have any specific wine-tasting agenda plotted out (like me, on Memorial Day), then these places are some of the best wineries to visit on a drop-in basis.

Rather than provide an exhaustive list of tasting notes for each winery, in the interest of brevity, I’ve simply compiled some highlights from the day. Although I have become familiar with the portfolios from each of these wineries over the years, I was reminded of a few things today that I had forgotten. Here are a few of my observations:

• Grgich Hills: These wines display a great deal of old-world character — perhaps more than I realized as an employee. In truth, the Grgich Hills wines remain different than many of the Napa wines out there. Stylistically, I suspect that the Grgich Hills wines have remained constant, while the Napa Valley in general has adopted a more fruit-forward approach. My epiphany during this tasting was that perhaps Grgich Hills wines are not for beginners.

To wit, I tasted the 2005 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvingon yesterday, which was a typical Grgich blend of about 90% Cabernet, with small doses of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The wine displayed a faint serrano pepper aroma, which I’ve often come to associate with Stags Leap District Cabernet (by volume, most of the Grgich Hills Cab is actually sourced from the winery’s Yountville property, which flanks Highway 29). This earthy herbaceous trait may challenge those who prefer a burst of fruit upfront, but may be welcome by those who cut their teeth on Bordeaux.

In tasting the 2004 Grgich Hills Yountville Selection (sourced from two distinct plots of 50-year-old Cabernet vines), I again encountered the same style. To be sure, this wine is a big, dark, brooding beast — intense in its earthiness, but somehow seamless in its complexity. Certainly, both Grgich Hills Cabernets demand a food pairing to really shine, which has become a contrarian approach over the last couple of decades (at least here in the Napa Valley).

• Heitz Cellars: Honestly, I had forgotten how great Heitz is. The value that this winery presents is really rare here in the Napa Valley, and it immediately reminded me of Chappellet (another old winery that has kept its prices low, while quality has remained high). One thing I admire about Heitz is how long they hold their wines in the cellar: the 2004 Heitz Napa Valley Cabernet is their current release, as most other wineries in Napa roll out (or have already rolled out) the 2006 vintage.

I thought that the entire Heitz portfolio was great, and the prices are almost absurdly low: the Zinfandel was only $22 and the Cabernet was only $42. Honestly, any time I can find a great Napa Cabernet for under $60, I’m calling that a bargain these days. But the Heitz Cellars Cabernet — along with the terrific Turnbull Wine Cellars Cabernet ($45) — is among the greatest deals in the Napa Valley.

• Duckhorn Wine Company: In contrast to Heitz, I had forgotten how pricey Duckhorn wines had become. The funny thing about it is, the prices at Duckhorn had taken me by surprise during my last visit as well. I’ll drive up to Duckhorn when the occassion arises because I do enjoy their wines, but then I always get sticker shock when I’m reminded that the Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc is $27 and the Duckhorn Estate Merlot is $85. In the latter instance, that really is a lot of coin for a Merlot that’s definitely good, but which is not really any better than the bevy of $40 Napa Merlot here in the valley.

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The first [... read more ...]]]> I made an impromptu visit to Piña Cellars yesterday, and I tasted a couple of their current Cabernet releases. All in all, the winery produces four different bottlings of single-vineyard Cabernets, with a fifth bottling on the way for the 2006 campaign. All five of the Piña vineyards are located along the eastern portion of the Napa Valley, with properties occupying four of Napa’s sub-appellations, including Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford and Howell Mountain (Piña’s fifth vineyard is planted at the base of Atlas Peak, but is not within the strict boundaries of that appellation).

The first wine I tasted was the 2005 D’Adamo Vineyard Cabernet, which is only Piña’s second vintage from this nine-acre property. Harvested from the rolling foothills of Atlas Peak, the D’Adamo was emblematic of many lower-valley Cabernets, trading on elegance more than intensity. A product of relatively cool Napa climates, the 2005 D’Adamo Cabernet exhibited tremendous balance, and was both soft and layered. I often get the sense that the wines from the Atlas Peak area are frequently overlooked — the 2005 D’Adamo Cabernet presents a compelling reason to explore this region further.

While the 2005 D’Adamo represented Piña’s southernmost vineyard, the second wine — the 2005 Buckeye Cabernet — represented the family’s northernmost interest. Full-bodied, with almost a smoky black cherry aroma, the Buckeye Cab was typical of the Howell Mountain appellation in almost every way. The Piña family has been producing wine from the six-acre Buckeye patch since the 2000 vintage, and the wine shows a bit more concentration than the D’Adamo bottling. Still, the finesse of the D’Adamo proved more appealling to my tastes (and much to my surprise). It was the wine I revisited, and ultimately, the one I took home.

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