The Accidental Wino » St. Helena

Eating Well: Slow Food Napa Valley’s Potluck Brunch @ Ehlers Estate Winery, St. Helena

The Accidental Wino — Fri, 16 Sep 2011 07:40:35 +0000

The dining area outside Ehlers Estate.

Slow Food Napa Valley hosted a pig roast and potluck on Sunday, September 11th, in conjunction with Ehlers Estate in St. Helena. The following photos highlight the event, which provided a forum for SFNV members to discuss the future of SFNV, and how they can help to increase interest and awareness of the Slow Food movement. Naturally, the brunch was amazing. Please click on any photo for a full-screen view.

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Pig cracklins, up close.

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CIA instructor Patrick Clark carves the Mulefoot Hog, which was provided by Michael Fradelizio of the Silverado Brewing Company and Beer Belly Farms.

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Michael Fradelizio (left) and Patrick Clark (right) remove the pig from the Caja China roasting box. A hungry crowd gathers.

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A look at the just-finished pig inside the Caja China.

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The Mulefoot hog, just a couple hours into cooking.

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The Ehlers Estate line-up. Delicious.

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Ehlers winemaker Kevin Morrisey (far left) talks shop with SFNV members.

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The Ehlers Estate tasting room, built in 1886.

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Debbie Fradelizio (left) and Corrie Beezley (right) greet SFNV members as they arrive for the potluck with baskets in hand.

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One very impressive apple pie.

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A beautiful honeycomb and cheese platter from Marshall's Farm.

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Heirloom tomato platter.

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In Ehlers Estate's BioDynamic vineyard.

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Flowers outside the Ehlers Estate tasting room.

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Book Review: “Riesling Renaissance” by Freddy Price

The Accidental Wino — Thu, 01 Sep 2011 19:19:12 +0000

“Coffee’s for closers only.” Anyone who has seen 1992′s “Glengarry Glen Ross” might recall this line from the film’s first act, when Alec Baldwin delivers one of my all-time favorite movie monologues. The scene marks Baldwin’s only appearance in the film — a scant seven minutes — but his abusive tirade establishes the movie’s tone, and it sets up the second act perfectly. In “Glengarry,” Baldwin plays the character of Blake, an über-alpha real estate salesman, and a role that was written specifically for Baldwin by playwright David Mamet (as great as it is, Baldwin’s “Glengarry” monologue was not part of Mamet’s original 1983 stage play). During his brilliant rant, Baldwin espouses the acronym “ABC” — short for “Always be closing” — a hard-boiled sales mantra that he imparts to an ensemble of A-listers, including Jack Lemon, Ed Harris, and Alan Arkin (with Al Pacino and Kevin Spacey rounding out the cast, just for good measure). As someone who’s seen “Glengarry” dozens of times over, I’m always reminded of Baldwin’s monologue whenever I hear someone use the acronym “ABC” within the context of wine.

For folks like me, those who are devoted to drinking and exploring Napa wine, “ABC” usually means “Anything but Chardonnay.” This quippy, yet dismissive critique of Napa’s most prominent white wine may seem surprising to some, especially since Chardonnay still enjoys both pedigree and popularity the world over. However, the “ABC” philosophy does have some merit in regard to local wine. On one hand, the Chardonnay alternatives are few and far between here in the valley; for most Napa wineries, Sauvignon Blanc represents the only other local option for white wine (Chardonnay accounts for almost two-thirds of Napa’s total white wine production, while Sauvignon Blanc accounts for about one-fourth). But for the “ABC” camp, it’s not so much the fact that Chardonnay dominates the white wine landscape — it’s more the idea that California Chardonnay, despite its overall popularity, simply lost its taste appeal to many wine drinkers.

The local backlash against California Chardonnay began to build in the late 1990s, following an era when many local producers used to treat Chardonnay with a heavy regimen of new oak, coupled with heavy malolactic fermentation (often referred to simply as “malocatic” — or even “ML” — this secondary “fermentation” is actually bacteria-based, and isn’t a true yeast-based fermentation). With Chardonnay, heavy oak plus full ML typically results in the oaky-buttery style that many folks still enjoy (Rombauer Vineyards is the poster-child for this particular approach, and Rombauer will probably always bear the oaky-buttery torch). In the 1980s, this heavy-handed style became the vogue for many (perhaps most) Napa Valley winemakers, and the result was that Chardonnay eventually began to taste less and less like the grape, and more and more like the process. Taste, of course, remains subjective, and inherently, this particular style of winemaking wouldn’t necessarily present an issue, except that it began to make lots of Napa Chardonnays all taste the same.

Indeed, Chardonnay is widely known as “the winemaker’s grape,” a canvass that can lend itself to plenty of tweaking and manipulating in the cellar. As author Freddy Price acknowledges in his brief introduction of “Reisling Renaisance,” the Riesling grape is the complete opposite of Chardonnay. Classically, Riesling is rarely aged in oak barrels and the use of ML is non-existent. As Price also points out in his introduction, Riesling expresses its terroir more clearly than any other wine. Terroir, or what I would colloquially call” the taste of place,” is the notion that no grapevine grows within a vacuum. For better or worse, nature’s elements are bound to have an influence on the vine, and farming techniques are also bound to play a role in a grape’s flavor development. For serious wine drinkers, this idea of terroir is what allows experts to identify a wine’s origin simply by its taste, smell and appearance.

“Reisling Renaissance” is invaluable for anyone who wishes to gain a deeper insight into the world’s Riesling production. Price has spent more than 50 years pursuing his passion for the grape, and his knowledge of Riesling certainly shines. The book is divided into regional chapters, leading off with the most important, Germany, and then delving into sections on France, Austria, Australia, New Zealand, and the United States. “Riesling Renaissance” features great maps, concise and insightful histories, and lists of the top Riesling producers for each wine-growing region. Unfortunately, here in the Napa Valley, Riesling is all but absent, even though the grape was extremely popular before Prohibition, and also during the 1960s and 1970s (today, Riesling accounts for a little more than 1% of Napa’s total white wine production). To be fair, however, Napa is generally too warm to grow world-class Riesling on a large scale (Washington State has since become the domestic leader in Riesling production).

“ABC” has become a tough bet for Californians who wish to drink locally, but a few wineries have continued to produce Riesling with some success. Among the California wineries in consideration, Price highlights Bonny Doon, Greenwood Ridge, Navarro Vineyards, Smith-Madrone and Trefethen. Although it is noteworthy to point out that Bonny Doon sources its juice from Washington State and Germany’s Mosel, the other four wineries do grow and produce a true California Riesling. Trefethen and Smith-Madrone are the only Napa representatives on the list, although personally, I would also add Stony Hill Vineyards, since they’ve been producing an admirable dry Riesling in Napa Valley for more than 50 years now.

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Eating Lunch Up Valley: Napa’s Best Taco Options

The Accidental Wino — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 06:27:18 +0000

Al Pastor Tacos @ La Luna Market, Rutherford.

When I was working as a wine educator in Rutherford and Oakville, quick lunch options were unusually scarce. Aside from an occasional Dean & DeLuca sandwich, Mexican food was the only feasible option up valley — not that I ever complained all that much. Being a native of California, Mexican food will always be a staple for me, and the tacos on this page represent literally hundreds of past lunches, especially the tacos al pastor at La Luna Market, pictured above. Conservatively, I’ve eaten over one thousand tacos at La Luna (at an average of about eight tacos per week for over three years, you do the math). Of course, with that many visits to one taqueria, I’ve sampled La Luna’s entire menu several times over, but at this point, I’ve distilled my go-to selections down to just two choices: their tacos al pastor, or their carnitas (extra crispy) super burrito.

I’ll save the burrito discussion for another time, but La Luna’s al pastor tacos are quite good, if a bit uneven sometimes. At their best, the ground pork has been rendered enough to have a few crispy bits, with the red sauce providing just enough piquant heat. Now that I’ve returned to professional cooking, my trips to La Luna have lessened significantly, but the hopes of on-point al pastor will still lure me up to Rutherford. On the other hand, if I’m in the mood for carne asada, I’ve found that the shrewd move is to drive a bit further to the north, up to Azteca Market in St. Helena. Azteca and La Luna are similar in the sense that both taquerias operate within small convenience stores, although Azteca’s carne asada is superior to that of its Rutherford counterpart. Pictured below, Azteca’s carne asada tacos feature a delicious salsa verde, though my only complaint is that sometimes the meat could be chopped a bit smaller.

Carne Asada @ Azteca Market, St. Helena.

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Rumor Mill: The Martini House Saga May Finally Have an Ending

The Accidental Wino — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 20:30:59 +0000

After breaking the news late last year regarding the October closure of the Martini House, I had also reported that Paul Fleming of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse had planned to move into the newly-vacated space. However, just a few weeks after this news broke, I soon learned that the Fleming deal had fallen through. Now, with the old Martini House property in turn-around, I’ve recently discovered that Hillstone Restaurant Group has apparently stepped in, and the new owners will allegedly be moving forward on the project rather quickly.

Hillstone, of course, is the same entity behind Rutherford Grill, and is also the same company that’s currently converting the old Napa Valley Grille space in Yountville. My sources mentioned that after the acquisition of the Martini House property, Hillstone also made an offer to Farmstead executive chef Sheamus Feeley, who had originally established his local following at the Rutherford Grill. However, it’s my understanding that Feeley will remain at Farmstead for the time being, so there will be no Hillstone-Feeley reunion at the moment.

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Fish and Chips @ The Silverado Brewing Company, St. Helena

The Accidental Wino — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 07:10:12 +0000

Golden brown, and then some.

The fish and chips at Silverado Brewing Company remains one of my favorite comfort foods here in the Napa Valley, although this dish succeeds more on its execution than its authenticity: The fish itself is a Vietnamese catfish called basa — definitely not traditional within the dish — but on the other hand, the crispy beer batter and the house-made tartar sauce are always pitch-perfect. And that’s what really counts.

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10 Things I’ll Eat Again in 2011:

The Accidental Wino — Fri, 31 Dec 2010 07:10:26 +0000

End-of-the-year recaps present a great opportunity to “re-purpose” some old content (I learned this valuable euphemism during the dot-com era). Here are 10 dishes that I really enjoyed this year, in no particular order. I’m not saying this list comprises my top 10 dishes for the year, but some of them could definitely qualify. Clicking the photos will transport you back to the original article — and perhaps, a much simpler time and place.

Crispy shrimp with ginger and onions @ Huong Tra, Richmond.

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Flounder special @ Yuet Lee, San Francisco.

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The #6 Banh Mi @ Viet Nam, San Francisco.

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Black pepper brisket hash @ Fremont Diner, Sonoma Carneros.

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Chilaquiles @ Miguel's, Calistoga.

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Señorita bread @ Star Bread Bakery, Vallejo.

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Sake-marinated black cod @ Terra, St. Helena.

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Oyster po-boy with macaroni and cheese @ Brown Sugar Kitchen, West Oakland

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Pad See Iew @ Sa Wad Dee, Richmond.

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Garlic pork broth ramen @ Ramen Dojo, San Mateo.

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The Twelve Days of Pizza: Exploring the Napa Valley’s Best Pizza Options

The Accidental Wino — Sat, 04 Dec 2010 08:58:34 +0000

Pizzas on Parade (clockwise, from upper left): Oenotri, Solbar, Redd, Pizzeria Azzurro, Auberge du Soleil, Uva, Cantinara Piero, Ca' Momi, Boon Fly Cafe, Pizzeria Tra Vigne, Papa Joe's, Bistro Don Giovanni.

If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza remain highly subjective, and plenty of effort has already been spent hashing out the pizza-related differences between Chicago, New York, and the rest of the country. However, I chose not to acknowledge any of those debates concerning thin crusts or deep dishes. For this segment, I set out to answer just one very hands-on question: Who offers the best pizza in the Napa Valley?

In gathering my data, I’ve eaten 15 small pizzas in the span of about six short weeks, which some folks may view as excessive. Whatever. I had originally intended to feature maybe six or seven pies, but as this review began to assume a life of its own, I pushed that number to 10, and eventually 12 pizzas. As for my guidelines, there weren’t any, really: Any non-chain restaurant earned consideration, so long as it was located within the Napa Valley. As a result, this review encompasses quite a broad spectrum of pizzas, from specialty pizza joints, to mom-and-pop style parlors, to Michelin-star restaurants. The following mishmash of eateries really speaks to the universal nature of pizza itself — otherwise, how else could you possibly compare Papa Joe’s with Auberge du Soleil?

• OENOTRI •

Pizza Margherita with Pancetta @ Oenotri, Downtown Napa

Like many of the top pizzas on this list, Oenotri is a relatively new addition to Downtown Napa, having opened in early 2010. I would argue that, aside from Morimoto opening his restaurant in July, the addition of Oenotri was Downtown Napa’s biggest boon in 2010. Oenotri specializes in rustic, Southern Italian cuisine, including pizzas fired in their wood-fueled oven from Naples. Personally, I prefer a light and airy crust with elements of charring, which is exactly what Oenotri delivers. Like many of Napa’s top pizzas, Oenotri relies upon a thin crust, enough so that their pizzas cook up in less than 90 seconds at 800ºF. These times and temperatures actually adhere to an Italian standard, and are certified by a Neopolitan consorzio that regulates pizza in the same manner that another consorzio might regulate wine, cheese, or balsamic vinegar. Quick cooking at high temperatures allows for rampant bubbling within the dough, which I can also appreciate; I’ve always viewed the bubbled oddities as the best pieces.

• CA’ MOMI •

The #11: Porchetta Rucola e Grana Pizza @ Ca' Momi, Oxbow Market, Napa

Located inside the Oxbow Market in Napa, Ca’ Momi is so new to Napa that it wasn’t open when I first began my pizza odyssey. The crust on this pie features a satisfying crispiness, a pleasant smokiness, and great overall character. In contrast to the Campania-inspired pizzas at Oenotri, the pizza at Ca’ Momi skews more towards Venice, and the #11 features baby arugula, large flakes of grana padano cheese, and tender strips of roasted pork. It’s a superb pie, and this new-comer to Napa Valley certainly deserves early consideration. One great perk about ordering pizza at Ca’ Moma is that the rest of Oxbow Market is at your feet, and it’s easy to pass the time while the pizza bakes (diners at Ca’ Momi are given pagers to alert them when the pizzas are ready, so window shopping is encouraged). Along with Pica Pica Maize Kitchen (which opened in 2008), Ca’ Momi has really helped to make Oxbow Market an attractive destination.

• AZZURRO •

Salsiccia Pizza @ Pizzeria Azzurro, Downtown Napa

The Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is one of my favorite pies, and there are certainly days when this selection might rank at the top for me. Azzurro has led the pizza movement in Downtown Napa, having first opened its doors at the smaller Second Street location in 2001. In 2008, Azzurro moved to its current location at First and Clinton, a space that now offers ample seating, though lunchtime can still prove crowded. In my mind, the Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is perhaps Napa’s closest relative to New York Style pizza. If you look closely, the tiny blisters on the darkest parts of the crust reveal the pizza’s inherent crispiness. The Salsiccia features fennel sausage, red onions, and mozzarella cheese.

• CANTINARA PIERO •

Funghi Pizza with Sausage @ Cantinara Piero, Yountville

Compared to the wood-fired pizzas from Oenotri and Ca’ Momi (talk about two restaurants with unique names), the pizza at Cantinetta Piero most resembles the latter. Like a proper baguette, the crust of Piero’s pizza can throw some considerable crumbs. It’s the kind of crust you could tear open and butter, that is, if you actually had the gluttonous nerve to butter pizza. I thought about it, and in the eyes of the law, that’s practically the same thing as doing it. Piero’s Funghi pizza features an intense, slightly-sweet schmear of caramelized onions, which for me, borders on onion marmalade.

• SOLBAR •

The Maitake Mushroom Pizza @ Solbar, Calistoga

Hands down, the Maitake mushroom pizza at Solbar is the Napa Valley’s best up-valley option for great pizza, and it’s the only pizza available on the Silverado Trail, as far as I know. The dough at Solbar is based upon a biga-style starter, which cultivates and propagates the yeasts, developing a more complex flavor within the crust. Traditionally, Italian bakers use a biga starter for making ciabatta bread, and Solbar’s pizza crust definitely features some ciabatta-like characteristics within the crumb. The pizza dough is made without sugar, ensuring a relatively light color, even after the dough has finished cooking. In terms of the pizza toppings, I also admire the simplicity of the maitake mushrooms and the cave-aged gruyere, which both lend an earthy-nutty component to the pie.

• REDD •

Prosciutto Pizza @ Redd, Yountville

The bar menu at Redd is one of my favorite menus in the entire Napa Valley. In fact, I rarely order pizza at Redd, since the hoisin pork buns or the sweet-and-spicy Thai chicken wings often take precedent for me. The pizza at Redd is dressed after-the-fact, which represents a bit of an uncommon approach. If I can deconstruct this pizza accurately, I suspect that the dough is sprinkled with cheese before it’s baked, but it also receives a layer of prosciutto, arugula, and cheese after it emerges from the oven. The prosciutto, in particular, is generous by most comparisons, and it blankets the pie nicely for wall-to-wall flavor. Aside from its bar menu, Redd also has one of the best dessert menus in the Napa Valley, though the former pastry chef has since taken a position at Cyrus.

• AUBERGE DU SOLEIL •

Duck Pizza with Egg @ Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford

On the right day in the Napa Valley, the pizza at Auberge du Soleil could easily rank higher on this list than sixth. It all depends upon the weather and the view, really, since Auberge offers one of the Napa Valley’s most impressive lunchtime vistas. Although I spent a year at Auberge working as a line cook, I was rarely ever treated to this view, but I did see plenty of foie gras during that time. Along with the two previous pies from Solbar and Redd, the pizza at Auberge rounds out the list of Michelin-star restaurants within this column. To that end, Auberge offers much more than a view, if you really want to splurge; the restaurant’s wine list resembles a phone book, and the bar offers 35 wines by the glass. Yes, 35.

• PIZZERIA TRA VIGNE •

The Positano Pizza with Extra Lemons @ Pizzeria Tra Vigne, St. Helena

Pizzeria Tra Vigne is an adjunct to Tra Vigne Restaurant, which first gained notoriety under chef Michael Chiarello in the 1990′s. These days, Tra Vigne only has the ghosts of Michael Chiarello, while the man himself can be seen several nights a week in the kitchen (and the dining room) at Bottega, which will celebrate its second anniversary this month. Anyhow, I don’t frequent Tra Vigne proper, although I do enjoy the pies that emerge from the adjacent pizzeria. For me, the fried lemon slices on the Positano pizza are addictive, though I know other folks who feel the same. Crescenza cheese and tender shrimp complete the pizza, and the three flavors represent a very compelling combination. The crust holds its own, as well.

• PAPA JOE’S •

The Shrimp and Artichoke Pizza @ Papa Joe's Pizza, Napa

Although Tra Vigne definitely leans in the same direction, Papa Joe’s Pizza crosses into what I call “parlor” territory. Shameless and robust, parlor pizza is what I grew up on as a kid, living in the California suburbs. These are pizzas that demand a splash of Louisiana hot sauce — or perhaps Sriracha — because they have enough stuffing to stand up to the spice. Among Napa’s pizza parlors, Papa Joe’s is the oldest and the best, although it’s delivery and takeout only (thus, the cardboard carrying case pictured above). In the pizza pictured above, the marinated artichokes are an apt counter-point to the sweet, cocktail-sized shrimp. Pound for pound, this was probably the heaviest pizza of the bunch.

• BISTRO DON GIOVANNI •

Bambini Pizza @ Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa

Although I have seen potatoes on pizza at some venerable New Haven pie shops, this approach is a bit different. Pizza purists may roll their eyes at the Bambini pizza at Bistro Don Giovanni, however, if you were to swap the french fries for some fresh basil, then you’ve got yourself a very serviceable margherita. Whenever I’ve ordered the Bambini, the servers often ask if I want any ketchup on the side for the fries. Truthfully, the contrast between ketchup and tomato sauce is somewhat off-putting for me; I recommend ordering the pizza with a side of aioli instead. If you’re looking for something a little less inventive, Bistro Don Giovanni also offers more traditional pizzas. However, I would be more than remiss to compile a list of Napa Valley pizzas without acknowledging the Bambini.

• BOON FLY CAFE •

Margherita Flatbread with Pepperoni @ Boon Fly Cafe, Napa Carneros

I included the Margherita flatbread from the Boon Fly Cafe, even though the restaurant doesn’t actually list this item as a “pizza” per se. To be honest, I’m not sure that this approach is completely fair, since the flatbread pictured above does not exhibit the same character as some of the previous pizza doughs, with their ample crusts and interesting textures. Perhaps this pie had never really aspired to be anything other than a flatbread, so I’m not sure whether or not Boon Fly’s margherita should actually be juxtaposed with the other pizzas on this list. Ultimately, however, I decided that since the BFC flatbread uses “margherita” in its description (and also offers a pepperoni add-on), it’s fair game. Unfortunately, it’s mostly out-matched by the previous pies.

• UVA TRAITTORIA •

Margherita Pizza @ Uva Traittoria, Downtown Napa

Although I’ve had a quite a few nice dishes at Uva Traittoria, the day I tasted their Margherita pizza, it struck me as slightly bland, to the extent that I wondered if I had done something to mute my taste buds leading up to lunch. I added crushed red pepper flakes to wake it up, but it probably just needed a pinch of salt in the sauce and perhaps the dough (since mozzarella burrata is inherently on the bland side, I think it needs the help of the other ingredients). A healthy dose of grated parmesan might’ve also made the difference.

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Project Food Blog 2010, Round 6: A Picnic @ Behrens Family Winery, Spring Mountain

The Accidental Wino — Fri, 22 Oct 2010 06:36:34 +0000

S'more Pots du Creme: Scharfenberger Chocolate Custard, Graham Crackers, and Toasted Marshmallow Fluff.

Last Tuesday felt like the last warm day of 2010. Whether or not that proves to be true, tomorrow can only tell. It’s very possible that November or December might offer an odd sunny day here or there — that happens fairly frequently here in Northern California — but as far as planning a picnic was concerned, Tuesday just seemed like the last sure-shot bet of the season. Instinctively, and with the last vestiges of summer quickly fading into fall, I felt like I needed to plan just one last visit up to Spring Mountain. Among the many wines of Napa Valley, I love Spring Mountain Cabernet in particular, and if I had to name a handful of my personal favorites, I’d list Pride Mountain, Behrens Family, Terra Valentine and Paloma (although the latter winery specializes in Merlot exclusively).

The drive up to the Spring Mountain summit takes you 2,000 feet above the Napa Valley floor, and if you ask me, all that much closer to heaven. When it comes to wine tasting on Spring Mountain, my strategy is to schedule three appointments as far apart in the day as possible (10am, 1pm, and 3pm is ideal), and then pass the time picnicking in between tastings. Spring Mountain features exactly zero restaurants, delis or taco trucks (it’s wine or nothing up there), and it’s way too much of a hassle (for me) to drive back down into St. Helena just to battle the crowds for lunch. The elegant solution, of course, is to pack your own picnic, and to enjoy the view. Each winery on Spring Mountain offers its own unique vista, so hopping picnic grounds is definitely a worthwhile pastime. I’ve got a couple pictures from Spring Mountain at the bottom of this post, but first things first: The views and booze may complement the scene nicely, but the food is still the highlight around these parts. And since I’ve already teased this entry with a picture of dessert, let’s just cut to the chase, shall we?

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• S’MORE POTS DU CREME •

The moment that the words “s’more pots du creme” popped into my head, I was instantly married to the idea. I felt that the words themselves, American slang alongside proper French, conveyed the very idea of a refined take on a classic treat. So how would it look? I pondered my strategy, and after considering all of the possible configurations, I decided that marshmallow definitely deserved the top spot, no question, since it would get the torch. As for the graham crackers, they would get soggy if they were on the bottom, so chocolate was the natural choice for the base. As for chocolate pots du creme recipes, I needed a stove-top approach, since baking the pots du creme in the oven would prove risky (these glass jars aren’t tempered, so they might not survive the extreme heat). I used a Cook’s Illustrated recipe as inspiration, but with a few substitutions and omissions, based upon what I already had on hand. Custard recipes offer a fair amount of leniency, so long as you keep them in the ballpark. Italian meringue, pictured below, requires a little more focus, but is also relatively forgiving, which is great. Once you learn to make Italian meringue from scratch, you’ll take step closer to rock star status among your friends (not to mention, the groupies).

Little Fluffy Clouds: Re-Whipping after a Night in the Fridge.

Italian meringue is marshmallow fluff, plain and simple. Everything is the same, but the name; they’re both created by adding hot, liquid sugar to beaten egg whites. I suspect that for most people, making an Italian meringue is one step beyond the norm. For me, I used to execute this recipe nightly when I was working the pastry station at the Martini House. However, I had never made Italian meringue even once before that, nor had I ever really considered it. Luckily, the sophistication of Italian meringue lies in its simplicity, which was excellent for me, since my background in baking and pastry was relatively scant. In this case, having a candy thermometer is 90% of it, and having a stand mixer is the other 10%. Basically, if you can read a thermometer, you’ll do fine. The recipe for meringue, which I also included below, is adapted from the one and only Julia Child.

• RECIPE •

S’MORE POTS DU CREME

Chocolate Pots du Creme Ingredients

• 9 oz Scharfenberger 62% (pale yellow wrapper, three big bars)

• 5 egg yolks (save the whites for Italian meringue)

• 1/4 cup sugar

• 2 cups heavy cream

• 1/4 cup whole milk

• Pinch of salt

Chocolate Pots du Creme Method

1. Break the chocolate bars into coin-sized pieces and set aside in a large bowl.

2. In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks with the sugar and the salt, until the mixture becomes pale yellow. Add the milk and the cream, then transfer this mixture to a sauce pot. Cook the custard slowly, over a low flame, stirring and scraping the sauce pot with a wooden spoon. Cook the mixture until it coats the back of the wooden spoon, about 170ºF.

3. Strain the warm custard over the chocolate, and stir until the pieces dissolve.

4. Divide the custard into jars and chill.

• • •

Italian Meringue Ingredients

• 5 egg whites

• 1/4 teaspoon, cream of tartar

• 1-1/3 cups, sugar

• 1/2 cup water

• 1T vanilla extract

Italian Meringue Method

1. In a stand mixer, beat the eggs, salt, and cream of tartar, add the salt and cream of tartar, to soft peaks. Turn the mixer to the slowest speed as you complete the sugar syrup.

2. Bring the sugar and water to the simmer, and boil to the soft-ball stage (234°F to 240°F).

3. Beating the egg whites at moderately slow speed, dribble the boiling syrup into the mixer, trying to avoid the wires of the whip. Increase mixer speed to moderately fast, add the vanilla extract, and beat until the sides of the mixing bowl are just warm.

4. Allow the meringue to sit for 30 minutes, then re-whip the mixture to the smooth consistency pictured above. From this point, the meringue can be held for several hours, or re-whipped again the next day.

• • •

S’more Pots du Creme Assembly

1. After the custard has set overnight, add a layer of graham cracker pieces, followed by a layer of marshmallow fluff. Toast the marshmallow fluff with a torch.

• • •

What didn't fill the jars filled the ramekins. Not a bad look, either.

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• THE MAIN COURSE •

Snap and Go: Shrimp Ceviche, Roasted Garlic Hummus, Duck Rillettes.

Duck rillettes sparked my fascination with hinged jars recently. Since I had duck confit in the fridge from a previous challenge, I knew that I wanted to bring some delicious duck rillettes up to Spring Mountain. But then I got to thinking about hinged jars in general, and how well they travel. Sure, they’re heavier than plastic containers, but glass also insulates far better than plastic, the hinged lids make it easy to flip the jars shut if there’s insects buzzing around, and glass also looks much more appealing than plastic (which certainly counts in PFB). I got carried away with the idea, and before I could even reconsider, I was knee-deep in brainstorming.

As for the food itself, I decided that the picnic should only consist of cold-prep items, since there would be no option to heat or re-heat anything at the summit of Spring Mountain. At the same time, I also wanted foods that would lend themselves to casual noshing, which meant that I wasn’t keen on specific portions, either. I envisioned impromptu snacking between winery visits, a scenario where one could simply make canapes as desired, selecting among a few different options. In this situation, someone could eat just a little of one thing, and maybe much more of something else. Ultimately, it all plays to personal taste, and having freedom from specific portions is a beautiful thing, so long as everyone has enough to eat.

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Sourdough crostini.

Crostini are great for picnics because it’s one-handed eating: You can hold a wine-glass in one hand, a duck rillettes crostini in the other hand, and you’re free to walk among the trees and take in the full view. What’s the point of eating outside if you can’t be liberated from the table?

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• SHRIMP CEVICHE with TOMATILLO-AVOCADO SALSA •

Shrimp Ceviche, smothered with Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa.

Since I had duck rillette in the works, I wanted a couple lighter options to balance out the savory course. Ceviche was a great choice, since it represents one of the lightest seafood preparations possible. I adore ceviche, and I also have a great admiration for tomatillo-avocado salsa. What can I say? I put them together, although in layers, just to kind of echo the look of the duck rillette (I blame this far-out presentation on too much wine, and my staunch California upbringing). If you don’t feel like getting freaky with the presentation, you can certainly mix the ceviche with the salsa verde ahead of time.

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Shrimps.

I had actually been planning scallop ceviche, but when I got to the market, the scallops looked haggard compared to these beautiful shrimp.

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Tomatillos, alongside Avocado and Lime.

• • •

So fresh and so clean.

Put together, the ceviche and tomatillo-avocado salsa look striking in the outside light. This photo above is what didn’t fit in the jar. So vibrant and tasty on a proper tortilla chip, pictured below.

I bought the chips along the way, courtesy of my local lunch spot.

• • ••

• RECIPE •

SHRIMP CEVICHE with TOMATILLO-AVOCADO SALSA

Shrimp Ceviche Ingredients

• 1 lb. shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped

• 1 carrot, diced

• 1 small red onion, diced

• 1 red jalapeño, seeded and diced

• Zest and juice of two limes

• Salt, to taste

• Cilantro, chopped, to taste

Shrimp Ceviche Method

1. Combine ingredients and chill overnight.

• • •

Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa Ingredients

• 1 ripe avocado

• 5 tomatillos

• Juice and zest of one lime

• Salt, to taste

• 1/4 cup water, plus more, as needed

Tomatillo-Avocado Salsa Method

1. Puree all ingredients, except for the avocado. Add water to the puree to achieve the desired sauce consistency. Transfer the tomatillo puree to a bowl and mash in the avocado with a whisk.

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• DUCK RILLETTES •

Duck : Rillettes. Pig : Bacon.

Although by far the most modest-looking of the trio, the duck rillettes were actually the star of the show (I floated some sprigs of thyme in the fat cap, just to add a little style to the presentation). Pictured above, this jar of duck rillettes is potent stuff, all lack of style is accounted for with substance: Three legs of duck confit, minced together with one shallot, and the three respective duck cracklins, pictured below. Oh yes. There’s high-octane flavor in that jar. The photo below depicts the cracklins as they emerge from the frying pan, before being minced into the confit. Duck skin sets the bar for crispy. And look at that golden brown color. You just can’t coach that. The picture below is actual size, unless you click it. For more background on duck confit, please visit my entry for cassoulet pizza.

What's cracklin, y'all?

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• ROASTED-GARLIC HUMMUS •

I stuck the parsley leaves to the inside of the jar with a little dab of olive oil. Then I filled the jar with a piping bag. If you use this little trick, the leaves stay put, no problem. You'd have a tough time trying to do this with a spoon, believe.

I feel like hummus is quite a bit like guacamole: As long as there’s enough salt and acidity, it’s usually pretty good. Hummus is a simple recipe, so much so that I never really use exact measurements for hummus. However, I’ll typically process two cups of drained garbanzo beans with an eight-ounce jar of tahini, assisted by 1/4 cup each of olive oil and water. For this recipe, I also added the roasted garlic (pictured below) to the puree. Once the puree is smooth, simply add salt and lemon juice to taste (for a recipe of this size, I’ll usually add the zest and juice of at least two lemons). I also like to add rough-chopped parsley to the hummus, for a clean, bright, herbaceous note.

Garlic, dressed with Olive Oil, Salt, and Black Pepper (then roasted for 30 minutes at 300ºF).

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• CUCUMBER AGUA FRESCA •

Cool as a cucumber: Agua Fresca has a great look in the sunlight. It's iridescent from some angles.

I started making tons of agua fresca this summer, especially as watermelon came into season. I have a general formula that includes two pounds of fruit, one pint of water, and 1/4 cup of sugar (of course, this ratio can be heavily modified to suit personal tastes). The mixture is simply blended and strained. I chose cucumber because it’s one of the more counter-intuitive ingredients for a beverage. Plus, cucumber agua fresca is super-delicious.

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• THE PICNIC •

The jars fill the bottom, and everything else fits on top, even the plates and the accoutrements.

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Picnic with a view: I stitched together three photos of the Behrens Family vista. If last Tuesday does prove to be the last warm day of 2010, at least it was perfect. Click to zoom.

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The tasting room at Behrens Family is the business: A 1947 Westcraft trailer. I took this photo during my March 2010 visit. Great wines.

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Taken the same day as the photo above, this is the picnic area at Pride Mountain, as seen in the early springtime. Great wines, as well.

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Napa Rumor Mill: Martini House Closing, to Be Purchased by Flemings Steakhouse

The Accidental Wino — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 18:51:26 +0000

[UPDATE: The rumor below has since been confirmed, although chef Todd Humphries will not be going to the CIA, nor Jeanty at Jack's, as he mentions in the comments.]

Folks, the stories don’t get much more wild than this one, but I’m going to roll with it anyway, since that’s part of what I do: I’ve just heard that the Martini House in St. Helena will be sold to Flemings Steakhouse. I’ve been mulling this one over all morning, thinking about the possibility of this rumor being true, and what it could all mean to the Napa Valley. What I do know is that the Martini House has struggled over the last couple years, due to the economic downturn: Along the way, the St. Helena restaurant has lost its Michelin star (I had speculated that the “family meal” program had been part of that); the Kobe burger, which was once a bar-menu item only, now appears on the regular dinner menu (with fries, not onion rings). In addition to these sorts of things, I had also heard rumblings about the Martini House being sold this summer, but I couldn’t confirm them at the time, or even flesh out any specifics. This sale to Flemings Steakhouse is the first piece of Martini House news with any real details.

As for Martini House chef-owner Todd Humphries, I would guess that he might be preparing to assume a new role somewhere else. Before opening the Martini House with restaurant mogul Pat Kuleto, Humphries had served as the executive chef at CIA Greystone. I can say with much more certainty, however, that Flemings Steakhouse is attempting to stake its claim in St. Helena, although it probably won’t be “Flemings Steakhouse” as you’ve seen elsewhere (St. Helena has imposed a moratorium on chain restaurants, so we may see Flemings adopt another name for its Napa Valley location, similar to the way that the Houston’s in Rutherford had adopted the name “Rutherford Grill” in order to open).

I can’t say for sure, of course, but if everything pans out, I’d assume that these changes would occur sooner rather than later, once the tourism begins to subside in the Napa Valley. Better get that last bowl of the legendary Martini House mushroom soup while you can — I’ve heard from one of my very best sources that the restaurant may possibly shutter by the end of the month. You heard it here first.

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Tasting Notes: Pinot Noir @ Failla Wines, St. Helena

The Accidental Wino — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 08:36:56 +0000

Despite its spike in popularity over the last several years, Pinot Noir remains rather uncommon here in the Napa Valley. With the exception of the Carneros District — which is the coolest and southern-most region in the Napa Valley — Pinot Noir proves ill-suited for our warm Mediterranean climate. But even if this fickle Burgundian varietal could somehow become more adaptable to Napa, Cabernet Sauvignon has long staked its claim here in the valley, and no other varietal can ever muster a challenge for the crown. Since capturing the world’s attention with the Judgment of Paris in 1976, not only is Cabernet the main event here in the Napa Valley, it’s practically become the only show in town. Searching for Pinot Noir in Napa remains a fool’s errand, no questsion. That is, unless the discussion involves Failla Wines in St. Helena.

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The hook here is quite simple: Failla is that rare Napa Valley winery that produces noteworthy Pinot. Of course, there’s an obvious caveat to this scenario: Failla’s grapes are sourced exclusively from Sonoma County, where coastal climates offer Pinot Noir a relatively cool growing season. For what it’s worth, sourcing fruit has always remained a common aspect of winemaking, and it’s not a trend that should be considered either positive or negative. It’s just how things happen to be. After all, many wineries in the Napa Valley will source their grapes from other areas throughout the county, whether they own these vineyards or not. However, the overwhelming majority of Napa’s purchased fruit is Cabernet, with Chardonnay ranking a distant second. What really sets Failla apart, therefore, is not only the fact that the winery focuses primarily upon Pinot Noir — it’s that Failla leaves Cabernet completely out of the equation, as well.

To be sure, any Napa winery that doesn’t feature Cabernet had better excel in other key areas. Fortunately, Failla winemaker Ehren Jordan has developed a deft touch with Pinot Noir, and Failla has thus carved its own unlikely niche in the heart of Cabernet country. Long before Jordan had launched the Failla label with his wife, Anne-Marie Failla, he had served as the winemaker for Turley Wine Cellars, a position he has held for 15 years now. The well-informed reader might note that Turley Wine Cellars is located just south of Paso Robles, meaning that Jordan will sometimes have to make frequent trips between the North Coast and the Central Coast, especially during key times of the season. Of course, none of this jet-setting would mean anything if Failla’s wines weren’t consistently terrific.

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Over the last few years, those who have been paying close attention to California Pinot Noir will acknowledge the importance of the Sonoma Coast appellation, which offers wines that easily rival those of the more famous Russian River Valley. I would argue that, vintage for vintage, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir actually trumps Russian River Pinot Noir, at least among the top producers. Even among Failla’s portfolio, I much prefered the Sonoma Coast Pinot to the Russian River Pinot. That said, my favorite wine of the tasting was the 2007 Failla Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir, which for me was just slightly more dynamic than the 2007 Failla Occidental Ridge Pinot Noir, also from the Sonoma Coast. Personally, I enjoyed the additional element of fruit within the Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir, although the 2007 vintage had certainly been kind to each of these Sonoma Coast wines. I definitely wouldn’t kick the 2007 Occidental Ridge out of bed.

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