The Accidental Wino » St. Helena

Photos: Three Lunch Options from Wine Country and Elsewhere…

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:32:18 +0000

As I’ve mentioned here before, my goal in life is to only eat well, whether that means cooking at home or dining out. With that basic principle in mind, I definitely try to document everything delicious along the way, although sometimes certain meals get lost in the shuffle. And sometimes I may repeat myself, especially when I have certain favorites that I’ll revisit when I have the chance. I’ve actually mentioned all three of these lunches in previous posts, but never presented a photo alongside the article (I only upgraded my camera last May). Eventually, I’ll insert these photos into my past entries, but I wanted to give them a little shine on the front page as well.

The Chinatown Duck Burger @ Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, St. Helena

For the duck burger at Cindy’s, the real draw for me isn’t so much the fact that the burger is made of ground duck; what really sets this burger apart is the “shiitake ketchup” that dresses the sandwich. For my January 2009 entry about Cindy’s Duck Burger, click here.

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Pizza Slices @ Gioia Pizzeria, North Berkeley

My old buddy Ross, who lives in the Oakland Hills, got me hooked on Gioia a few years back, and whenever I’m parked on the 580 and I see the Gilman Street exit, I’ll often seize that opportunity to get a couple slices. I’d much rather eat pizza than sit in traffic. For my February 2009 review of Gioia Pizzeria, click here.

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The Tri-Tip Sandwich @ Buster's Southern Barbecue and Bakery, Calistoga

The tri-tip sandwich at Buster’s is always a treat, as long as you don’t order the hot barbecue sauce. I can handle a fair amount of heat, but that sauce tests my limits, so keep that in mind. The cornbread muffin is one of the very best out there — it doesn’t actually require the pat of butter, although I use it nonetheless. Their fresh lemonade (not pictured) is also a terrific accompaniment. For my June 2008 entry for Buster’s, click here.

Breakfast & Lunch: Photos from Napa Valley Wine Country

Thirsty Reader — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 06:48:06 +0000

Cachapas Pernil, Pica Pica Maize Kitchen, Oxbow Market, Napa

Though I had been to Pica Pica Maize Kitchen before, I hadn’t actually tasted the cachapas pernil (#7) until I attended the Napa Valley Chefs’ Market a few weeks ago. The yellow corn pancake is just sturdy enough to provide the exterior, with a flavor profile that’s slightly sweet. The cachapas pabellon (#3), which is shredded skirt steak with plantains, is also a tasty alternative.

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Market Burger, Market Restaurant, St. Helena

As far as cheeseburgers are concerned, the Market Burger is an adequate choice, although the shredded Fiscalini cheese in the photo above reminds me of McDonald’s diced onions. This shredded cheese aesthetic has never really appealed to me, especially since a well-melted slice of cheese features so much more panache.

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Chicken and Waffles, Fremont Diner, Sonoma Carneros

I had assumed that the chicken and waffles at the Fremont Diner would be based upon their Nashville spicy fried chicken, which they offer at lunch. As it is, I’m not a big fan of the boneless chicken paillard; these pieces typically lack character, and they seem to dry out easily. The buttermilk waffle, which easily out-shined the fried chicken, was airy and light, yet delicately crisp.

There Will Be Pastries: Scouting Napa Valley’s Breakfast Options

Thirsty Reader — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 02:01:12 +0000

As I’ve continued to explore the culture of breakfast and lunch here in the Napa Valley, I felt that it was certainly worthwhile to mention a few of the better pastry options out there. After all, even if you’ve enjoyed a large breakfast in the morning, pastries remain a great take-away item, especially if you plan to spend the day wine tasting, when lunch can often get pushed back, or pushed aside altogether. Without a proper lunch, that same cheese danish that may seem gluttonous in the early morning can actually become your salvation in the early afternoon (and maybe help prevent you from drooling at the dinner table, as well). I speak only from personal experience: Don’t fear indulgence. Embrace it. So with that caveat in mind, I have seven pastries to consider below — many hailing from very different walks of life — but each noteworthy in its own right.

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The Cream Cheese Danish @ Bouchon Bakery, Yountville

It’s no secret that I’m tepid on Ad Hoc (even their fried chicken dinner) and that I’m also somewhat ambivalent about Bouchon. I have long-standing reasons for both opinions, but at the same time, I certainly don’t blame anyone who might choose to dine at either restaurant. Both places can definitely have their moments — especially Bouchon — but I just don’t find myself making regular visits to either restaurant these days (and just to set the record straight, these humble opinions aren’t meant as any sort of Thomas Keller “backlash” — I acknowledge that TK is the greatest chef in American history, as well as at the present moment). For me, it’s just one of those things: With limited time and limited resources, some places are bound to be passed over in lieu of other favorites. But before I come across as a complete Negative Nancy, I’ll gladly go on record that Bouchon Bakery rates as the very best bakery in the Napa Valley, hands down. Among the many wonderful selections at Bouchon, my favorite is probably the cream cheese Danish pictured above, while my friend Marissa swears by the chocolate-almond croissant pictured below. Despite their apparent differences, both pastries fit safely and squarely within the “buttery-flaky” category, and either one could double as a dessert. Who doesn’t want to eat dessert for breakfast?

The Chocolate-Almond Croissant @ Bouchon Bakery, Yountville

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One Order of Donuts @ The Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros

It’s important to point out that the Boonfly donuts pictured above are quite close to actual size (they’re akin to a Hostess “Donette,” just for another comparison). As a result, most people could easily eat a Boonfly donut in one single bite, and I suspect that many people do, myself included. Other than their dainty proportions, there’s really no need to discuss much: The Boonfly donuts are fried to order and dusted with cinnamon and sugar — a simple approach, to be sure, but one that also trades on its a la minute freshness.

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Lemon Poppy Seed Muffin @ The Fremont Diner, Sonoma Carneros

Established late last year, the Fremont Diner has quickly proven a strong addition to Napa wine country, and I’ve included it here, even though it’s technically located in Sonoma County (but within minutes of the Boonfly Cafe, for what it’s worth). The lemon poppy seed muffin pictured above features the consistency and crumb of a top-quality cake donut. It’s honest, and if you enjoy lemon poppy seed muffins, it’s also delicious.

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English Muffin @ The Model Bakery, St. Helena

For most people from the United States, the thought of an English muffin might recall something similar to a Thomas’ English muffin. However, this notion is way off-base, especially if you have ever been across the Atlantic. In terms of its design, the English muffin from the Model Bakery is relatively unassuming, except that it is twice the height as a Thomas’ muffin, and probably twice as buttery, to boot. The packets of preserves are somewhat small for the task, so I recommend ordering two.

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Cinnamon Roll @ 7-Eleven, Napa

I’m definitely not recommending a trip to 7-Eleven in lieu of something more local, especially for those people who might be visiting the Napa Valley. I present the 7-Eleven cinnamon roll only as a late night option, since I used to sometimes stop there for cinnamon rolls on my way home from Auberge du Soleil. I can tell you from experience that the pastry vendor delivers the goods at about 11pm each night, so when I was rolling through 7-Eleven around midnight after a night of cooking on the line, these cinnamon rolls were usually still warm from the bakery. Even average pastries, when consumed so quickly after baking, can be transcendent. Timing is everything.

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Señoritra Bread @ Starbread Bakery, Vallejo

Again, some gerrymandering of Napa County lines for the sake of discussion: Vallejo is actually located in Solano County. However, anyone who journeys to Napa Valley from the Bay Area has the option of a quick trip to Starbread Bakery (take the 29 exit right after the Carquinez Bridge). I’ve mentioned Starbread here before — I think I called their señorita bread the love-child of a freshly-baked croissant and a Hawaiian dinner roll. I continue to stand behind that remark. What more do you need to know?

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Wine Tasting Notes: Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Napa Valley

Thirsty Reader — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 03:46:45 +0000

I’ve covered so much about food lately that I haven’t been keeping up with my wine tasting notes. The best wines that I’ve tasted recently were some older vintages of Chappellet Cab, but I’ll try to address those in the future. For the sake of staying a little more relevant to the here and the now, I do have a few notes from my recent tasting at Joseph Phelps Vineyards. I’ll cut to the chase and discuss the 2006 Insignia ($200) the winery’s flagship bottling, and a wine that has developed a loyal following over the years. Recent buzz is that Robert Parker has already anointed the 2007 Insignia with a score of 97-100 (based upon a barrel sample). We’ll see. The 2007 Insignia goes retail later this summer. As for the 2006 Insignia, I found it as underwhelming as I found the 2005 before it. Perhaps it’s just not to my tastes. Others have raved about it, but not me. I’m just not seeing it, even when I want to see it.

I did, however, enjoy the 2005 Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Cabernet ($225), and I felt that the extra $25 would be very well spent purchasing the Backus in lieu of the Insignia. On the other hand, smart money wouldn’t purchase any current-release Napa Cabernet at the $200 level, which is why I haven’t ever purchased Shafer’s “Hillside Select” or Loyoka’s Mount Veeder (these are the two wines that have almost convinced me to reconsider). Although the Backus does boast some terrific attributes — it’s velvety and complex — I can’t say that it ever encouraged me to break my own spending rules, so I wouldn’t place this wine in the same class as Shafer, or Lokoya, or many Napa Cabernets at the $100 level. The Backus was tasty, though. Unfortunately, it’s priced for egos.

One of the more interesting wines of the flight was the 2006 Freestone Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($55), which is produced under Phelps’ second label. But again, even though the Sonoma Coast appellation is producing plenty of Pinot Noir gems these days, the retail price of the 2006 Freestone was pushing the upper limits of what might be typical for that quality level. I encountered a similar scenario with the 2008 Joseph Phelps “St. Helena” Sauvignon Blanc ($32) and the 2006 Freestone Chardonnay ($55). Both of these wines were well-crafted, but they were priced at prohibitive levels. Again, if I’m going to spend $50 on Chardonnay, then I’ll simply opt for my all-time favorite, Shafer’s Red Shoulder Ranch. Meanwhile, I can’t ever justify spending more than $30 on Sauvignon Blanc (and that goes for you, too, Duckhorn).

At the risk of sounding cheap and bitter (too late), I did feel that the 2006 Joseph Phelps Merlot ($40) and the 2006 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) presented appropriate values, but I’m not really trying to stock up on my decent-to-good reds these days. Bring on the sparkling, instead.

Breakfast & Lunch: The Muffaletta @ Farmstead, St. Helena

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 25 May 2010 12:13:37 +0000

Almost famous.

Only in New Orleans could a sandwich as glorious as the muffaletta take a backseat to the po-boy. In just about any other city in the United States, the muffaletta would certainly rank as a culinary claim-to-fame, earning a mention alongside the cheesesteaks of Philly or the towering deli pastramis of New York City. But even in the shadow of the more famous po-boy, the muffaletta of New Orleans boasts a loyal legion of followers (after all, one cannot exist on po-boys alone). With its roots at the Central Grocery in the French Quarter, the classic muffaletta features a round sesame roll, olive spread, a slice of provolone cheese and an assortment of Italian cured meats. It’s thought that the original muffaletta dates back about 100 years, and traditionally, these unusually large sandwiches were sold either as halves or quarter-slices.

At Farmstead, the muffaletta is scaled down to an individual portion, but in terms of flavor and execution, the St. Helena restaurant features an admirable version of the New Orleans classic. Even better, the sandwich comes with Farmstead’s roasted-then-fried new potatoes.

Four Courses @ Terra, St. Helena

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 18 May 2010 07:26:16 +0000

There’s no possible way that I could ever review Terra in St. Helena without heavy bias: I know too many people in that restaurant — from the kitchen, to the GM, to the waitstaff — to maintain any semblance of impartiality. For similar reasons, I can’t really offer my unbiased opinions about Martini House, Auberge du Soleil, or Etoile at Domain Chandon, either. Of the people whom I know socially in the Napa Valley, most of them work at either of these three restaurants. But despite these personal connections, I don’t think there’s much harm in showing some pictures from my latest dinner at Terra. If you’re looking for a short and impartial review of Terra, I’ll have to defer to my own personal hero, LA Weekly food-critic Jonathan Gold.

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Foie Gras on Crostini: This amuse was garnished with cocoa nibs, black cherry, rhubarb compote, one tiny mint leaf, and of course, the bright yellow foie gras fat-cap from the terrine itself.

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Tuna Tartare: Frozen shavings of miso-cured foie gras adorn the tuna tartare on avocado. The bkack-and-white sesame chips featured the taste and texture of crispy wonton wrappers.

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Green Garlic Soup: One of the great surprises of the night, garnished with a deep-fried oyster that featured an incredibly briny component. I said I would try not to show my biases, but this dish was terrific.

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Seared Black Cod with Shrimp Wontons in Shiso Broth: This umami-bomb is the signature dish at Terra, and one of the few times that fish can out-duel pork on a menu. Killer in the summertime, as you might imagine.

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Wine Tasting Notes: Ehlers Estate, St. Helena

Thirsty Reader — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 06:51:50 +0000

The BioDynamic vineyard at Ehlers Estate comprises 43 acres in total. In order to help amend the soil for the upcoming season, rows of vibrant yellow mustard alternate with verdant rows of grasses, fava beans and vetch. With rain subsiding, these same cover crops will assume a monotone shade of golden brown over the next month or so.

In some ways, it’s almost embarrassing to heap lavish praise onto my favorite Napa wineries. I often feel as though I might be coming across as some sort of Napa Valley rah-rah, gushing with unbridled hyperbole, as if I were posting on Yelp. As far as I’m concerned, Yelp represents the absolute lowest of the low in online content. In fact, I resent Yelp much more than I’ve ever resented the Wine Spectator. At least the Wine Spectator — with its hopeless predictability and its overblown influence — still manages to offer up some meaningful content every three weeks. On the other hand, Yelp remains aggressively mediocre, allegedly corrupt, with zero chance of improvement. I’ll say it before, and I’ll say it again: “Yelp Elite” is an oxymoron. But that’s enough Andy Rooney for now.

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Having extensively fawned over Chappellet in my last entry, I’m just going to offer up a bit of shorthand here, and point out that I consider Ehlers to be Chappellet’s equal in several ways: For instance, both wineries feature killer, world-class Cabernets at the top level, those being the Ehlers “1886″ ($95) and the Chappellet Pritchard Hill ($135); in addition, both wineries also offer their wonderful “flagship” Cabernets at under $50 each (and as far as I’m concerned, these two respective reds offer two of the very best values in the entire Napa Valley); and finally, neither Ehlers nor Chappellet makes a bad wine, no matter what varietal you may choose (the greatest wineries are always the most consistent, which is a tribute to the winemaker).

I tasted four Ehlers reds the other day: the 2007 Ehlers Merlot ($45), the 2007 Ehlers Cabernet Franc ($45), the 2007 One Twenty Over Eighty ($45), and last but not least, the 2006 “1886″ Cabernet Sauvignon ($95). Each wine was exquisite, as I’ve grown to expect over the years. The 2007 Ehlers Merlot featured ultra-ripe red fruit with an impeccably smooth finish, while the 2007 Ehlers Cab Franc offered some earth and some grip. The Cabernets, which are very different in their composition, each fill their niche. The 2007 One Twenty Over Eighty is 80% Cab, 14% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot, while the “1886″ is 93% Cab and 7% Cab Franc (and thus, neither Cab features the same blending grapes as the other). Regardless, they’re both strong values at their respective price levels.

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The tasting room at Ehlers, once a pre-Prohibition gravity-flow winery, was constructed in 1886 by Hamden McIntyre, the same gentleman credited with building Far Niente, Inglenook (now Rubicon) and Christian Brothers (now the CIA at Greystone).

Tasting Notes: Chappellet Winery, Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley

Thirsty Reader — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 05:50:13 +0000

Chappellet Winery sits atop 640 acres on Pritchard Hill, nestled among the Napa Valley's rugged Vaca Mountain Range. Red volcanic boulders, excavated from the vineyard over 40 years ago, remain piled under the great oaks in the distance.

Living in the Napa Valley, I’ve discovered over the years that I’m still perfectly capable of rampant tourism. Case in point: I recently hosted some friends from out of town and accompanied them to seven Napa wineries in just two days. That’s quite a bit of wine tasting, although hardly a personal record; when I first moved to the valley, I once covered 10 wineries in one day with an old college buddy. Over the years, four wineries has gradually become my per-day limit, which is not only more relaxing, but infinitely more constructive. With that caveat in mind, the theme this weekend was “All killer, no filler” — with just two days to experience some of the very best of Napa, there was no room for mediocrity.

Whenever I compile a short list of Napa’s best wineries, I always have to include Chappellet, which seems to become more impressive every year. For my money, Chappellet is the can’t-miss mecca for great Napa Cabernet. The winery remains family-owned, with a 43-year history, a breathtaking view from the Vaca Mountains, and above all else, a world-class portfolio. I’ve been a fan of Chappellet for a long time, and winemaker Philip Titus, who began at Chappellet more than 20 years ago, has clearly discovered how to coax the very best attributes from Pritchard Hill. For me, the Chappellet reds consistently strike that rare balance between power and finesse. I really can’t say enough about them.

My favorite wine of the flight — and the one that has set the bar for the year, thus far — was the 2007 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet ($135). This wine is a gentle giant, brooding yet approachable, and destined to fetch top scores from the almighty über-critics, like Jim Laube and Bob Parker. That said, there has already been a significant push for the 2007 Chappellet Signature Cabernet ($47), which is nearly sold out, and which has already been relegated to a strict one-bottle-per-visitor allocation (subsequently, this 2007 Signature is no longer offered as part of Chappellet’s tasting). Frankly, I found this news a little bit alarming. After all, the Signature Cabernet is Chappellet’s flagship wine, and I could’ve easily missed out on this particular vintage. From here on out, Cabernet drinkers are certainly going to have to scramble for this one.

Considering that many people will certainly seek out the 2007 Signature Cabernet long after it’s gone, there is some degree of solace: The 2007 Chappellet Mountain Cuvee ($29). I’m not going to claim that this wine matches the overall complexity of the pricier Chappellet wines, but it will definitely give most other Cabernets in the Napa Valley a run for their money. And at just $29, it’s simply untouchable within the sub-$30 category.

Tasting Report: The 10 Best Napa Cabernets for $50 or Less

Thirsty Reader — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 08:04:33 +0000

As I spent 2009 combing the Napa Valley for great wines (the one definite perk of living here and being in the wine business), I decided to pay special attention to the Cabernets that were priced at $50 or less, hoping to one day compile a list of favorites. In order to confirm their merit, I plan to eventually put all of these wines into blind tastings alongside a few of their $100 counterparts, just to see how they fare against the big boys (I suspect that many of these lesser-priced wines will easily rise to the top). But first things first: Although it did take me all of last year, I’ve finally encountered enough outstanding wine to formulate a serious list, and so I’m now prepared to finally put my selections on record. To that end, I submit the following 10 wines, listed in order of preference…

• Martin Estate Bacchanal 2006 ($48) : One of the great unsung wines in the Napa Valley, I have already placed Bacchanal into a blind tasting of Oakville and Rutherford Cabs, pitting it against the 2006 Groth ($58), 2005 Rubicon ($175), 2006 Pedemonte ($39), 2006 Nickel & Nickel John C. Sullenger ($90), and 2006 Paradigm ($62). The Bacchanal won the tasting, with all five wine tasters ranking the wine in the top half (no other wine exhibited such consistent positive marks). My personal favorite was actually the Nickel & Nickel, with the Bacchanal ranking second. Frankly, Martin Estate is a winery that I have long meant to review, but simply haven’t yet.

• Terra Valentine Spring Mountain 2006 ($38) : In my previous review for Terra Valentine, I mentioned that the winery’s single-vineyard Cabs were the wines that originally drew me up to the top of Spring Mountain Road, but that their Spring Mountain Cabernet blend has now become my favorite Terra Valentine wine. This Cabernet features ripe, plush fruit with terrific character and concentration. If you’re spending a day visiting Spring Mountain wineries, make sure to visit Paloma and Behrens-Hitchcock, as well.

• 2006 Turnbull Estate ($45) : Flanked by Nickel & Nickel to the south and Cakebread Cellars to the north, I think that Turnbull is often overlooked by far too many of Napa’s tourists. My notes from my blind tasting of 2005 Oakville Cabernets revealed Turnbull as the clear winner (and the lowest-priced wine in the flight, to boot). One more reason to visit Turnbull: The winery also offers its 2007 Old Bull Red ($19), a tasty catch-all blend and one of the few good Napa reds that you can find for under $20.

• 2005 Heitz Cellars Estate ($42) : After living in the Napa Valley, I have found that the wineries with the greatest histories sometimes have the lowest prices. Many say that the old-timers have that conservative, farming mentality that will see them through good times and more importantly, bad times. The 2005 Heitz Estate Cabernet is an affable wine that boasts big ripe fruit, and I’m always amazed at how long Heitz holds back its releases (I can’t think of many other wineries that still offer a 2005 Cab as their most current vintage). As a result, these wines are often plush right out of the gate.

• 2006 Bennett Lane Maximus ($35) : Maximus is the perennial 90-point “Feasting Wine” that lures folks to drive all the way up to Calistoga, even during the height of summer. It’s bold in the way you might expect for the newly-designated Calistoga AVA, which typically does so well with hot-weather varietals like Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. My last tasting report for Bennett Lane was in December 2008. Although the winery has since discontinued its White Maximus, the proprietary red is still at its consistent best.

• 2007 Chappellet Signature ($47) : For those who have spent any time perusing the “Essay and Oddities” on the right, I have long championed Chappellet as one of the top five wineries in the Napa Valley. The winery, founded in 1967, has great history, a great view from Pritchard Hill, and great wine. With neighbors like Colgin and Bryant Family, Chappellet presents the best value, by far, along Sage Canyon Road. The winery also offers its terrific 2007 Mountain Cuvee ($29), which could’ve made this list on its own (although this wine is just 51% Cabernet).

• 2006 Titus Vineyards ($41) : Chappellet winemaker Phillip Titus owns an eponymous wine label — Titus Vineyards — that also produces a noteworthy low-cost Cabernet. For me, this Cabernet exhibits some similar traits to Chappellet’s terrific estate Cab. Titus Vineyards is another winery that I’ve meant to review more recently, but have not found the time for a more thorough recap. Hopefully, I can coordinate something in the next month or so.

• 2007 Newton Claret ($25) : Another bargain from Spring Mountain Road, the Newton Claret is one of the lowest-priced bottles on the list. Keep in mind, you could actually purchase two full-sized bottles of the Newton Claret, yet still remain within the $50 or less level (impressive). As with Chappellet, the quality of Newton’s lower-priced wine reflects the overall quality of the winery’s portfolio. Newton wines are always a pleasure to drink, and their Red Label Cabernet ($28) is also an over-achiever. Like Bennett Lane’s Maximus, the 2007 Claret is technically a Bordeaux blend, and not an official Cabernet.

• 2006 Dare ($34) : The second label of Viader, the Dare series offers 100% varietal bottlings of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, and Tempranillo, each at the same price. The Dare Cabernet features fantastic pedigree, combining fruit from Viader’s Howell Mountain Estate and from the historic Lewelling Vineyard in St. Helena. I tasted these wines very recently, on the same day as my trip to Ladera.

• 2007 Vincent Arroyo Estate ($36) and 2007 J.J.’s Blend ($20) : Although the strength of Vincent Arroyo lies in its single-vineyard Petite Sirahs, the winery earns kudos for offering a legitimate giant-killer of a Cabernet (and the only wine on the list at less than 14% alcohol), as well as its lighter and less-expensive counterpart (which takes its name from one of the winery’s resident Labradors). The winery remains one of the Napa Valley’s best-kept secrets.

Tasting Notes: Realm Cellars and Chateau Boswell

Thirsty Reader — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 16:26:31 +0000

I began taking blogging a little more seriously about a year ago, when I finally upgraded the Thirsty Reader from a static HTML page to a more fully functional website. Since then, I’ve attempted to keep pace with my own taste for the good life by sharing as many positive experiences as possible, whether it’s wine, restaurants, recipes, or books. The tricky thing about covering wine, in particular, is that new vintages can roll around in no time, and thus, there is an inherent pressure to not only discover new labels, but to also keep up with the old favorites.

Although this website has become more poplar than I had ever imagined, the wine still does not arrive at my doorstep. I’m not sure if everyone realizes that fact, since there are bloggers who do receive free wines for review. I’ve never received any free bottles of wine for this blog, and I’ve never received any compensation for any advertisements, either. In all honesty, I’m out there visiting the wineries like everyone else, but since I happen to live in the Napa Valley, I’m doing it on a weekly basis. Look, someone who doesn’t have a professional agenda has to be out there, seeing what’s worthwhile, and reporting back.

The Thirsty Reader does offer me a few personal benefits, however. Mostly, it helps me to remember what I’ve tasted, but it also reminds me to revisit some of the wineries that I’ve covered in the past. When I was browsing through my entries for August 2008, I realized that it had been over a year since I had tasted at Realm Cellars, and that I could not afford to lose pace with one of the best new wine labels in the Napa Valley (by “new” I mean less than 10 years old — Realm produced its first wine in 2002). I got in touch with Realm proprietor Juan Mercado, who was gracious enough to pour some wines and offer some barrel samples.

• • •

We began the day with the 2006 Realm Farella Vineyard Cabernet, which may have the least amount of name recognition among the winery’s three single-vineyard Cabs (the other two Cabs being sourced from Beckstoffer To-Kalon in Oakville and Beckstoffer Dr. Crane in St. Helena). The Farella Vineyard is located in Coombsville, which you almost never hear about, and which is not yet an official Napa Valley appellation. But I have found that Coombsville often delivers Cabernets with surprising complexity that easily matches the efforts of areas like Oakville and Rutherford. The 2006 Realm Farella is probably as good as any 2006 Cabernet that I have tasted, with great fruit, a full body, and seamless French oak.

Aside from Realm’s three single-vineyard Cabernets, the winery also produces three proprietary blends, each one being based upon either Cabernet, Merlot or Cabernet Franc. The 2007 Realm “The Bard,” which is the winery’s proprietary Cabernet blend (and which will be officially released in early 2010), was the second wine of the flight. I was told that at this early stage, “The Bard” is currently the most approachable of Realm’s 2007 proprietary wines, which also include “The Tempest” (which is Merlot-based) and “The Falstaff” (Cab Franc-based). “The Bard” was indeed very drinkable, featuring a lush profile of ripe red fruit, rounded out by a good dose of Merlot.

From there, we delved into the barrels themselves, tasting samples from two very different blocks of the 2008 Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard, as well as a sample from the 2008 Farella Vineyard. I also tasted a barrel sample of Realm’s 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet, which may become the fourth single-vineyard wine in the Realm portfolio (as long as this particular wine continues to develop at its current pace). I learned that Realm is always on the lookout for new sources of fruit, and so there may be even more single-vineyard Cabernets in the future.

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Realm actually leases its cellar space from Chateau Boswell, which has occupied the facility since the late 1970s. Fortunately, I was able to taste the 2006 Chateau Boswell Estate Cabernet, which is a co-fermented field blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon with elements of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The estate hillside vineyard only yielded 210 cases of wine in 2006, making this release impossibly scarce. That said, it’s a terrific wine, and one of the few field blends that you’ll encounter in the Napa Valley (in fact, I can’t really name any others, although I’m sure they may be out there).