“The owners of Hotel Luca have retained the two principles of Solage (Tim Harmon and Robert Watson) to help direct the operations of the hotel and restaurant. The hotel is still open and there are no changes planned at this time. [... read more ...]]]> I learned something interesting about Cantinetta Piero tonight at Pancha’s of Yountville (which happens to be located right across the street): Apparently, all of Piero’s employees learned just yesterday that their last night would be Wednesday, July 6. Upon posting this news, I received some clarifications today from Jennifer Tomaro, Marketing Director of Moana Hotel & Restaurant Group:

“The owners of Hotel Luca have retained the two principles of Solage (Tim Harmon and Robert Watson) to help direct the operations of the hotel and restaurant. The hotel is still open and there are no changes planned at this time. As you know, the restaurant was closed last night. There is no definitive plan in place for the restaurant as the team is using this opportunity to evaluate the operation, but the goal is to have it reopened by the end of this year. Please note that we do not have plans to make this a Solage-branded hotel / resort.”

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If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza [... read more ...]]]>

Pizzas on Parade (clockwise, from upper left): Oenotri, Solbar, Redd, Pizzeria Azzurro, Auberge du Soleil, Uva, Cantinara Piero, Ca' Momi, Boon Fly Cafe, Pizzeria Tra Vigne, Papa Joe's, Bistro Don Giovanni.

If there’s one food that can achieve total global supremacy, pizza seems like the natural front-runner. You don’t ever have to sell anybody on pizza. It just seems to endear itself to everybody, like a wealthy uncle, or a gregarious bartender. Although pizza has only become popular here in America since World War II, different schools of thought regarding pizza have already emerged: Individual preferences towards pizza remain highly subjective, and plenty of effort has already been spent hashing out the pizza-related differences between Chicago, New York, and the rest of the country. However, I chose not to acknowledge any of those debates concerning thin crusts or deep dishes. For this segment, I set out to answer just one very hands-on question: Who offers the best pizza in the Napa Valley?

In gathering my data, I’ve eaten 15 small pizzas in the span of about six short weeks, which some folks may view as excessive. Whatever. I had originally intended to feature maybe six or seven pies, but as this review began to assume a life of its own, I pushed that number to 10, and eventually 12 pizzas. As for my guidelines, there weren’t any, really: Any non-chain restaurant earned consideration, so long as it was located within the Napa Valley. As a result, this review encompasses quite a broad spectrum of pizzas, from specialty pizza joints, to mom-and-pop style parlors, to Michelin-star restaurants. The following mishmash of eateries really speaks to the universal nature of pizza itself — otherwise, how else could you possibly compare Papa Joe’s with Auberge du Soleil?

Pizza Margherita with Pancetta @ Oenotri, Downtown Napa

Like many of the top pizzas on this list, Oenotri is a relatively new addition to Downtown Napa, having opened in early 2010. I would argue that, aside from Morimoto opening his restaurant in July, the addition of Oenotri was Downtown Napa’s biggest boon in 2010. Oenotri specializes in rustic, Southern Italian cuisine, including pizzas fired in their wood-fueled oven from Naples. Personally, I prefer a light and airy crust with elements of charring, which is exactly what Oenotri delivers. Like many of Napa’s top pizzas, Oenotri relies upon a thin crust, enough so that their pizzas cook up in less than 90 seconds at 800ºF. These times and temperatures actually adhere to an Italian standard, and are certified by a Neopolitan consorzio that regulates pizza in the same manner that another consorzio might regulate wine, cheese, or balsamic vinegar. Quick cooking at high temperatures allows for rampant bubbling within the dough, which I can also appreciate; I’ve always viewed the bubbled oddities as the best pieces.

The #11: Porchetta Rucola e Grana Pizza @ Ca' Momi, Oxbow Market, Napa

Located inside the Oxbow Market in Napa, Ca’ Momi is so new to Napa that it wasn’t open when I first began my pizza odyssey. The crust on this pie features a satisfying crispiness, a pleasant smokiness, and great overall character. In contrast to the Campania-inspired pizzas at Oenotri, the pizza at Ca’ Momi skews more towards Venice, and the #11 features baby arugula, large flakes of grana padano cheese, and tender strips of roasted pork. It’s a superb pie, and this new-comer to Napa Valley certainly deserves early consideration. One great perk about ordering pizza at Ca’ Moma is that the rest of Oxbow Market is at your feet, and it’s easy to pass the time while the pizza bakes (diners at Ca’ Momi are given pagers to alert them when the pizzas are ready, so window shopping is encouraged). Along with Pica Pica Maize Kitchen (which opened in 2008), Ca’ Momi has really helped to make Oxbow Market an attractive destination.

Salsiccia Pizza @ Pizzeria Azzurro, Downtown Napa

The Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is one of my favorite pies, and there are certainly days when this selection might rank at the top for me. Azzurro has led the pizza movement in Downtown Napa, having first opened its doors at the smaller Second Street location in 2001. In 2008, Azzurro moved to its current location at First and Clinton, a space that now offers ample seating, though lunchtime can still prove crowded. In my mind, the Salsiccia pizza at Azzurro is perhaps Napa’s closest relative to New York Style pizza. If you look closely, the tiny blisters on the darkest parts of the crust reveal the pizza’s inherent crispiness. The Salsiccia features fennel sausage, red onions, and mozzarella cheese.

Compared to the wood-fired pizzas from Oenotri and Ca’ Momi (talk about two restaurants with unique names), the pizza at Cantinetta Piero most resembles the latter. Like a proper baguette, the crust of Piero’s pizza can throw some considerable crumbs. It’s the kind of crust you could tear open and butter, that is, if you actually had the gluttonous nerve to butter pizza. I thought about it, and in the eyes of the law, that’s practically the same thing as doing it. Piero’s Funghi pizza features an intense, slightly-sweet schmear of caramelized onions, which for me, borders on onion marmalade.

The Maitake Mushroom Pizza @ Solbar, Calistoga

Hands down, the Maitake mushroom pizza at Solbar is the Napa Valley’s best up-valley option for great pizza, and it’s the only pizza available on the Silverado Trail, as far as I know. The dough at Solbar is based upon a biga-style starter, which cultivates and propagates the yeasts, developing a more complex flavor within the crust. Traditionally, Italian bakers use a biga starter for making ciabatta bread, and Solbar’s pizza crust definitely features some ciabatta-like characteristics within the crumb. The pizza dough is made without sugar, ensuring a relatively light color, even after the dough has finished cooking. In terms of the pizza toppings, I also admire the simplicity of the maitake mushrooms and the cave-aged gruyere, which both lend an earthy-nutty component to the pie.

Prosciutto Pizza @ Redd, Yountville

The bar menu at Redd is one of my favorite menus in the entire Napa Valley. In fact, I rarely order pizza at Redd, since the hoisin pork buns or the sweet-and-spicy Thai chicken wings often take precedent for me. The pizza at Redd is dressed after-the-fact, which represents a bit of an uncommon approach. If I can deconstruct this pizza accurately, I suspect that the dough is sprinkled with cheese before it’s baked, but it also receives a layer of prosciutto, arugula, and cheese after it emerges from the oven. The prosciutto, in particular, is generous by most comparisons, and it blankets the pie nicely for wall-to-wall flavor. Aside from its bar menu, Redd also has one of the best dessert menus in the Napa Valley, though the former pastry chef has since taken a position at Cyrus.

Duck Pizza with Egg @ Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford

On the right day in the Napa Valley, the pizza at Auberge du Soleil could easily rank higher on this list than sixth. It all depends upon the weather and the view, really, since Auberge offers one of the Napa Valley’s most impressive lunchtime vistas. Although I spent a year at Auberge working as a line cook, I was rarely ever treated to this view, but I did see plenty of foie gras during that time. Along with the two previous pies from Solbar and Redd, the pizza at Auberge rounds out the list of Michelin-star restaurants within this column. To that end, Auberge offers much more than a view, if you really want to splurge; the restaurant’s wine list resembles a phone book, and the bar offers 35 wines by the glass. Yes, 35.

The Positano Pizza with Extra Lemons @ Pizzeria Tra Vigne, St. Helena

Pizzeria Tra Vigne is an adjunct to Tra Vigne Restaurant, which first gained notoriety under chef Michael Chiarello in the 1990′s. These days, Tra Vigne only has the ghosts of Michael Chiarello, while the man himself can be seen several nights a week in the kitchen (and the dining room) at Bottega, which will celebrate its second anniversary this month. Anyhow, I don’t frequent Tra Vigne proper, although I do enjoy the pies that emerge from the adjacent pizzeria. For me, the fried lemon slices on the Positano pizza are addictive, though I know other folks who feel the same. Crescenza cheese and tender shrimp complete the pizza, and the three flavors represent a very compelling combination. The crust holds its own, as well.

The Shrimp and Artichoke Pizza @ Papa Joe's Pizza, Napa

Although Tra Vigne definitely leans in the same direction, Papa Joe’s Pizza crosses into what I call “parlor” territory. Shameless and robust, parlor pizza is what I grew up on as a kid, living in the California suburbs. These are pizzas that demand a splash of Louisiana hot sauce — or perhaps Sriracha — because they have enough stuffing to stand up to the spice. Among Napa’s pizza parlors, Papa Joe’s is the oldest and the best, although it’s delivery and takeout only (thus, the cardboard carrying case pictured above). In the pizza pictured above, the marinated artichokes are an apt counter-point to the sweet, cocktail-sized shrimp. Pound for pound, this was probably the heaviest pizza of the bunch.

Bambini Pizza @ Bistro Don Giovanni, Napa

Although I have seen potatoes on pizza at some venerable New Haven pie shops, this approach is a bit different. Pizza purists may roll their eyes at the Bambini pizza at Bistro Don Giovanni, however, if you were to swap the french fries for some fresh basil, then you’ve got yourself a very serviceable margherita. Whenever I’ve ordered the Bambini, the servers often ask if I want any ketchup on the side for the fries. Truthfully, the contrast between ketchup and tomato sauce is somewhat off-putting for me; I recommend ordering the pizza with a side of aioli instead. If you’re looking for something a little less inventive, Bistro Don Giovanni also offers more traditional pizzas. However, I would be more than remiss to compile a list of Napa Valley pizzas without acknowledging the Bambini.

Margherita Flatbread with Pepperoni @ Boon Fly Cafe, Napa Carneros

I included the Margherita flatbread from the Boon Fly Cafe, even though the restaurant doesn’t actually list this item as a “pizza” per se. To be honest, I’m not sure that this approach is completely fair, since the flatbread pictured above does not exhibit the same character as some of the previous pizza doughs, with their ample crusts and interesting textures. Perhaps this pie had never really aspired to be anything other than a flatbread, so I’m not sure whether or not Boon Fly’s margherita should actually be juxtaposed with the other pizzas on this list. Ultimately, however, I decided that since the BFC flatbread uses “margherita” in its description (and also offers a pepperoni add-on), it’s fair game. Unfortunately, it’s mostly out-matched by the previous pies.

Margherita Pizza @ Uva Traittoria, Downtown Napa

Although I’ve had a quite a few nice dishes at Uva Traittoria, the day I tasted their Margherita pizza, it struck me as slightly bland, to the extent that I wondered if I had done something to mute my taste buds leading up to lunch. I added crushed red pepper flakes to wake it up, but it probably just needed a pinch of salt in the sauce and perhaps the dough (since mozzarella burrata is inherently on the bland side, I think it needs the help of the other ingredients). A healthy dose of grated parmesan might’ve also made the difference.

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Folks, the stories don’t get much more wild than this one, but I’m going to roll with it anyway, since that’s part of what I do: I’ve just heard that the Martini House in St. Helena will be sold to Flemings Steakhouse. I’ve been mulling this one over all morning, thinking about the possibility of this rumor being true, and what it could all mean to the Napa Valley. What [... read more ...]]]> [UPDATE: The rumor below has since been confirmed, although chef Todd Humphries will not be going to the CIA, nor Jeanty at Jack's, as he mentions in the comments.]

Folks, the stories don’t get much more wild than this one, but I’m going to roll with it anyway, since that’s part of what I do: I’ve just heard that the Martini House in St. Helena will be sold to Flemings Steakhouse. I’ve been mulling this one over all morning, thinking about the possibility of this rumor being true, and what it could all mean to the Napa Valley. What I do know is that the Martini House has struggled over the last couple years, due to the economic downturn: Along the way, the St. Helena restaurant has lost its Michelin star (I had speculated that the “family meal” program had been part of that); the Kobe burger, which was once a bar-menu item only, now appears on the regular dinner menu (with fries, not onion rings). In addition to these sorts of things, I had also heard rumblings about the Martini House being sold this summer, but I couldn’t confirm them at the time, or even flesh out any specifics. This sale to Flemings Steakhouse is the first piece of Martini House news with any real details.

As for Martini House chef-owner Todd Humphries, I would guess that he might be preparing to assume a new role somewhere else. Before opening the Martini House with restaurant mogul Pat Kuleto, Humphries had served as the executive chef at CIA Greystone. I can say with much more certainty, however, that Flemings Steakhouse is attempting to stake its claim in St. Helena, although it probably won’t be “Flemings Steakhouse” as you’ve seen elsewhere (St. Helena has imposed a moratorium on chain restaurants, so we may see Flemings adopt another name for its Napa Valley location, similar to the way that the Houston’s in Rutherford had adopted the name “Rutherford Grill” in order to open).

I can’t say for sure, of course, but if everything pans out, I’d assume that these changes would occur sooner rather than later, once the tourism begins to subside in the Napa Valley. Better get that last bowl of the legendary Martini House mushroom soup while you can — I’ve heard from one of my very best sources that the restaurant may possibly shutter by the end of the month. You heard it here first.

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I have always admired the desserts at Redd, especially the peanut butter and milk chocolate gianduja, which I have probably eaten more than any other dessert in the Napa Valley. I’ve also been a longtime proponent of Redd’s bar menu, which is probably my favorite in the area. The other day, I got to thinking about pork buns, sweet and spicy chicken wings, and some of my other favorites, so I dropped by Redd [... read more ...]]]>

Butterscotch sabayon, vanilla rum ice cream, caramel corn, and a sliver of galette (with chocolate cookie crumbles at the very bottom of the dish).

I have always admired the desserts at Redd, especially the peanut butter and milk chocolate gianduja, which I have probably eaten more than any other dessert in the Napa Valley. I’ve also been a longtime proponent of Redd’s bar menu, which is probably my favorite in the area. The other day, I got to thinking about pork buns, sweet and spicy chicken wings, and some of my other favorites, so I dropped by Redd for some appetizers, and I took the opportunity to peruse their dinner menu, as well. Within the next few weeks, I hope to revisit Redd for dinner, as part of my ongoing campaign to evaluate all of Napa’s potential Michelin-star restaurants (the 2011 Michelin Guide debuts on October 27, so we’ll see how many of these places I can cover between now and then). I ended up eating more than I had anticipated at Redd, and I meant to sneak out without ordering dessert, but I couldn’t resist one quick look at the menu; I spotted the butterscotch sundae ($10), pictured above, and I quickly caved. As you can see, a butterscotch sabayon replaces the more traditional butterscotch sauce, which puts a thoughtful spin on this old standby. The garnish of caramel corn adds a crunchy element to the dish, and quite frankly, I could’ve eaten an entire bowl of that stuff.

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Conspiracy theories, in general, are usually pretty boring. After all, who in their right mind wants to listen to some crackpot ramble on about government plots or UFOs? For me, it all adds up to a bunch of noise. But that being said, I do have a small conspiracy theory of my own regarding the 2010 Michelin Guide and Bistro Jeanty’s loss of its Michelin star. Perhaps it’s a bit far-fetched, but perhaps not. It goes as follows:

Since its wine country debut in 2007, the Michelin Guide has long been criticized for [... read more ...]]]>

I know you got sole.

Conspiracy theories, in general, are usually pretty boring. After all, who in their right mind wants to listen to some crackpot ramble on about government plots or UFOs? For me, it all adds up to a bunch of noise. But that being said, I do have a small conspiracy theory of my own regarding the 2010 Michelin Guide and Bistro Jeanty’s loss of its Michelin star. Perhaps it’s a bit far-fetched, but perhaps not. It goes as follows:

Since its wine country debut in 2007, the Michelin Guide has long been criticized for being detached and out-of-touch. Folks have often claimed that Michelin has no basis in local opinion, which calls into question the validity and relevance of the publication itself. The staff at Michelin must have been aware of these troubling accusations, and in order to tap into the local psyche, I suspect that Michelin began to pay more attention to the local papers. Then, along comes San Francisco Chronicle food critic Michael Bauer, who has clearly remained at his post far beyond his shelf-life, but who also boasts the largest soapbox in the entire Bay Area. Bauer takes Bistro Jeanty to task in 2009, in an infamous hatchet-job review that folks here in the Napa Valley still mention (and disregard) to this very day. However, the Michelin Guide, still being hopelessly naive and oblivious to true local opinion, takes its cue from Bauer (of all people), and subsequently revokes Bistro Jeanty’s Michelin star in 2010.

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Whether or not my hypothesis is valid, I continue to recommend Bistro Jeanty to my readers, and I continue to dine there several times per year. Personally, I’ve never known Bistro Jeanty to fall short of my own expectations. During my most recent visit, I ordered the Sole Meunière, pictured above, which proved as delicious as always. And really, what’s not to like about this French classic? A beautifully seared piece of fish, lemon, butter, capers, and a bed of creamy mashed potatoes. No need to reinvent the wheel, especially when all of the necessary elements are present. I’m surprised that the Michelin Guide didn’t respect and appreciate this brand of elegant simplicity. But, perhaps familiarity breeds contempt, and for a French publication, perhaps Sole Meunière seemed a bit passé for 2010. Or, perhaps it really was Michael Bauer’s influence, which is fast becoming passé itself.

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