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One thing that’s interesting about making annual visits to my favorite wineries is that I can gauge the consistency of my own personal taste. Consistency is important for wine drinkers, since the wines you purchase in the tasting rooms are the very wines you’ll ultimately be drinking at home. This notion seems obvious, of course. But there have been times when I’ve purchased wines, only to pop them open months or years later, and wonder what the hell I was thinking when I bought them. Was it perhaps the last tasting of the day? Was my palate just shot by then? Could I have been drunk? Drinking fine wine can be a somewhat costly proposition, so it’s key to be able to reach into the collection with confidence, knowing that anything you select will taste as delicious as you might remember. It’s important, therefore, to put yourself in tune with your own taste, which is the true benefit of going wine tasting.

I never review my old tasting notes before I revisit my favorite wineries, since I don’t want to be unduly influenced while I’m out tasting wine. Even more importantly, I don’t want to see anyone else’s notes either, and I hate when wineries publish scores alongside their tasting notes. I do admit, however, that wine ratings do interest me from a curiosity standpoint, but I have long since pushed them out of my mind when it comes to buying the wine that I plan to collect and drink. If I’m at a tasting room, and I can taste the wine for myself, does it even matter what the Old Guard thinks? Unless Jim Laube and Robert Parker are coming over to my place for drinks (fat chance of that, since I don’t host a seniors night), then who really cares what they think of the wine I serve? Instead of offering wines that reflect someone else’s tastes, I feel that my selections should really reflect my own tastes.

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Forgive me, I said this entry would be short, and I can ramble in the wee hours. But the reason why I mentioned consistency of taste was that I discovered that I tend to gravitate towards the same two wines at Papapietro Perry: The Pauline’s Vineyard Zinfandel and the Leras Family Vineyard Pinot Noir. In the latter instance, I’ve twice tasted the 2007 Papapietro Perry Leras Family Vineyard Pinot Noir ($49), although these tastings were almost one year apart. Both times, I’ve been absolutely floored by this wine. I would argue that the 2007 Leras may represent the pinnacle of Russian River Pinot Noir. I took a bottle home, and I when I looked at my notes from 2009, I learned that I also took home a bottle last summer (I originally caught this wine just as it was released, and now it’s finally ending its run). In the meantime, the 2007 Leras did compile some nice scores from Jim Laube, as well. Although I don’t agree with his influence, sometimes we do agree on wine.

As for the Pauline’s Vineyard Zinfandel ($37), it was my favorite Zin of the day, although I do remember enjoying the 2006 Pauline’s Vineyard more than the 2007 vintage. In general, I tend to prefer the 2006 Dry Creek Zins to their 2007 counterparts, which seem to have higher alcohol levels in general (though not in the specific case of the Pauloine’s Zin, which was 14.7% for both vintages). The 2007 campaign was a warmer vintage for Dry Creek Valley than the 2006 campaign. Having done some research on the Pauline’s Vineyard Zinfandel, I noticed that 2006 featured an early October harvest, while 2007 noted an early September harvest. More time on the vine allows for more complexity, which is probably why I remember doing back-flips for the 2006 Pauline’s, while the 2007 was delicious, but not as devastating.

Rather than purchase a Zinfandel from the 2007 vintage, I decided to instead stockpile a little more 2007 Pinot, since that vintage represents one of California’s all-time best for the varietal. The 2007 Pinots are beginning to disappear from the market at this point, as wineries are now beginning to offer their 2008s. With this in mind, I purchased the 2007 Papapeitro Perry Peters Vineyard Pinot Noir ($49), which I had briefly considered to be the best California Pinot Noir that I had tasted in a long time — until I tasted the 2007 Leras Family Pinot shortly thereafter. Both wines are formidable, to say the least. The 2007 Leras displays a touch more finesse than the 2007 Peters, but both wines feature a terrific aroma and an incredibly lengthy finish.

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Unti Vineyards is going to get short shrift in this post, since I’m almost at 1,000 words here. But I have exalted Unti plenty in the past, most recently with an entry regarding their 2008 Rosé, which is now sold out. Regardless, I found the 2009 Unti Rosé ($19) to be just as appealing. Among the nine other wines that I tasted at Unti, the one that really caught my attention was the 2007 Unti Grenache ($30), which is 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre. In my notes, I’ve summed it up simply as “impressive.” On the lighter side, I also purchased the 2008 Unti Segromigno ($24), which is 92% Sangiovese and 8% Montepulciano. It had aromas of mocha on the nose, alongside red fruit on the palate. Quite nice.

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The Cream Cheese Danish @ Bouchon Bakery, Yountville

It’s no secret that I’m tepid on Ad Hoc (even their fried chicken dinner) and that I’m also somewhat ambivalent about Bouchon. I have long-standing reasons for both opinions, but at the same time, I certainly don’t blame anyone who might choose to dine at either restaurant. Both places can definitely have their moments — especially Bouchon — but I just don’t find myself making regular visits to either restaurant these days (and just to set the record straight, these humble opinions aren’t meant as any sort of Thomas Keller “backlash” — I acknowledge that TK is the greatest chef in American history, as well as at the present moment). For me, it’s just one of those things: With limited time and limited resources, some places are bound to be passed over in lieu of other favorites. But before I come across as a complete Negative Nancy, I’ll gladly go on record that Bouchon Bakery rates as the very best bakery in the Napa Valley, hands down. Among the many wonderful selections at Bouchon, my favorite is probably the cream cheese Danish pictured above, while my friend Marissa swears by the chocolate-almond croissant pictured below. Despite their apparent differences, both pastries fit safely and squarely within the “buttery-flaky” category, and either one could double as a dessert. Who doesn’t want to eat dessert for breakfast?

The Chocolate-Almond Croissant @ Bouchon Bakery, Yountville

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One Order of Donuts @ The Boonfly Cafe, Napa Carneros

It’s important to point out that the Boonfly donuts pictured above are quite close to actual size (they’re akin to a Hostess “Donette,” just for another comparison). As a result, most people could easily eat a Boonfly donut in one single bite, and I suspect that many people do, myself included. Other than their dainty proportions, there’s really no need to discuss much: The Boonfly donuts are fried to order and dusted with cinnamon and sugar — a simple approach, to be sure, but one that also trades on its a la minute freshness.

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Lemon Poppy Seed Muffin @ The Fremont Diner, Sonoma Carneros

Established late last year, the Fremont Diner has quickly proven a strong addition to Napa wine country, and I’ve included it here, even though it’s technically located in Sonoma County (but within minutes of the Boonfly Cafe, for what it’s worth). The lemon poppy seed muffin pictured above features the consistency and crumb of a top-quality cake donut. It’s honest, and if you enjoy lemon poppy seed muffins, it’s also delicious.

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English Muffin @ The Model Bakery, St. Helena

For most people from the United States, the thought of an English muffin might recall something similar to a Thomas’ English muffin. However, this notion is way off-base, especially if you have ever been across the Atlantic. In terms of its design, the English muffin from the Model Bakery is relatively unassuming, except that it is twice the height as a Thomas’ muffin, and probably twice as buttery, to boot. The packets of preserves are somewhat small for the task, so I recommend ordering two.

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Cinnamon Roll @ 7-Eleven, Napa

I’m definitely not recommending a trip to 7-Eleven in lieu of something more local, especially for those people who might be visiting the Napa Valley. I present the 7-Eleven cinnamon roll only as a late night option, since I used to sometimes stop there for cinnamon rolls on my way home from Auberge du Soleil. I can tell you from experience that the pastry vendor delivers the goods at about 11pm each night, so when I was rolling through 7-Eleven around midnight after a night of cooking on the line, these cinnamon rolls were usually still warm from the bakery. Even average pastries, when consumed so quickly after baking, can be transcendent. Timing is everything.

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Señoritra Bread @ Starbread Bakery, Vallejo

Again, some gerrymandering of Napa County lines for the sake of discussion: Vallejo is actually located in Solano County. However, anyone who journeys to Napa Valley from the Bay Area has the option of a quick trip to Starbread Bakery (take the 29 exit right after the Carquinez Bridge). I’ve mentioned Starbread here before — I think I called their señorita bread the love-child of a freshly-baked croissant and a Hawaiian dinner roll. I continue to stand behind that remark. What more do you need to know?

Like the best banh mi baguettes, Leidenheimer rolls are imminently tender, yet they’ll throw beaucoup crumbs along the way, thanks to their thin-yet-crispy exterior. But even with these standard-issue rolls, po-boys remain relatively straight-forward in scope, even in New Orleans. Most restaurants offer a choice of either fried shrimp, fried oysters or fried catfish, and the sandwiches themselves are dressed with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and remoulade (of course, In New Orleans, po-boys aren’t always stuffed with fried seafood — I usually went to Gene’s for a late-night cheeseburger po-boy, and I always went to Mother’s for their famous roast beef “debris” po-boy). Here in California, however, the rules to tend to bend a little; it’s kind of what we do here, especially with our cuisine. So with this basic caveat in mind, I wondered what kind of po-boy I could find in the Bay Area, even if it wasn’t likely to be strictly authentic.

Last month, I tasted almost as many po-boys as I would typically taste in New Orleans. Well, that’s not true actually: In New Orleans, I was operating on a totally different level, eating five meals a day if I wasn’t working, and snacking like a damn fiend whenever I was working. At K-Paul’s, every cook begins his tenure by running the fry station, and I mobbed the shrimp nightly for that first month, dropping a few extra pieces for myself with each order. In that kitchen, I ate a silly amount of fried shrimp and oysters every night, then usually chased it all down with 10oz Budweiser cans at the Chart Room (which never closes or kicks anyone out). Not healthy living, but l-i-v-i-n living.

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I need to note right off the top that I’ll eventually expand this article to include an eighth Bay Area po-boy, the one they offer at Yat’s New Orleans Original Po-Boys. I’ve tasted the Yat’s po-boy before, but it was quite a while ago, at their original Jack’s Club location, and I never took any photos from that trip. By the end on 2009, the still newish Yat’s had vacated Jack’s Club (which features a shoebox-sized kitchen), and the operation re-opened for a short time at Annie’s Bistro near the Presidio. Today, Yat’s is currently awaiting its third home, which will now be on 3rd Street, but which will finally be a destination unto itself. I called the line for Yat’s today, and the gentleman on the phone mentioned that they were hoping for a June opening, but that mid-July debut was more realistic. In the meantime, I do have seven local po-boys that I’d like to discuss (listed roughly, but perhaps not exactly, by order of merit).

Oyster Po-Boy, Brown Sugar Kitchen, West Oakland.

The oyster po-boy at chef Tanya Holland’s Brown Sugar Kitchen is quite great: fundamentally sound, flavorful and balanced, and very much in the spirit of New Orleans. The oysters are deep fried in a “dry” batter, which is most a likely 50-50 combination of corn flour and corn meal, augmented with select Cajun seasonings. This method is the true New Orleans style, though you may notice that the other two oyster po-boys on this list are beer-battered (that’s California, for you). As for the bread itself, Chef Holland has sourced a well-chosen local alternative to the Leidenheimer roll. Oh, and the macaroni and cheese pictured to the left? That was easily the single-greatest thing about this entire project. For my tastes, the BSK mac and cheese cannot possibly be improved upon, and it comes as an optional $1 upgrade with the oyster po-boy. Get it, and the memory will stay with you.

Shrimp Po-Boy, Brenda's French Soul Food, San Francisco

Brenda’s is a lot like the San Francisco counter-part to the Brown Sugar Kitchen, and I can make many comparisons between the two restaurants. Superficially, they both keep breakfast and lunch hours only, and they are both helmed by two extremely talented chefs, who both happen to be women of color (if that even means anything to you as a reader — I really just care about the food, myself). The similarities run much deeper, however, as both restaurants excel in Southern comfort food, and both are destination restaurants in the truest sense. Best of all, I always see both chef-owners working the line whenever I visit. Brenda’s offers shrimp and oyster po-boys, with a catfish version as a daily special. The sandwich is mighty tasty, and chef Brenda Buenviaje’s gumbo is the best in the Bay Area, no question. I crave it like I crave New Orleans gumbo.

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Oyster Po-Boy, Hog Island Oyster Company, Napa

Hog Island bucks tradition with a hamburger-style potato bun, beer-battered oysters, and their bacon remoulade (or lemon aioli, but who are we kidding?). Frankly, I’m fine with all of it. This sandwich is delicious in its own context, and it’s by far the best option in the Napa Valley. Bonus points for being in the Oxbow Market, which can lead to other nice food-related discoveries. I also like the fact that Hog Island stakes its reputation on oysters, which guarantees that this oyster po-boy should possess an inherent quality within. Sure, it might not be a po-boy in the pure sense, but it can come awfully close to satisfying a craving.

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Soft-shell Crab Po-Boy, Queen's Louisiana Po-Boy Cafe, San Francisco

Queen’s Louisiana Po-Boy takes the most authentic approach possible, shipping in palates of par-baked Leidenheimer bread, which they finish in-house. Along similar lines, Queen’s also brings in gulf shrimp, along with more seasonal fare, such as the soft-shell crab pictured above. This sandwich is worth a quick trip down the 101, and the restaurant is freeway-close for an easy hit-and-run (exit Paul Avenue, and you’re there already). Queen’s also carries a nice selection of Zapp’s potato chips and Abita Beer (I wish they would offer Barq’s Red Cream Soda). Not to worry, I will eventually try their fried chicken.

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Shrimp Po-Boy, Angeline's Louisiana Kitchen, Berkeley

Angeline’s puts Creole mustard on their po-boys, which is weird. Even though the mustard may be Creole, it ain’t right. However, I don’t count this against Angeline’s since (a) they do mention this fact on the menu, and (b) they do have remoulade in house. I order Angeline’s shrimp po-boy with no mustard, substitute remoulade, and then I’m back in business. The gumbo upgrade is also worth getting, although I don’t rate Angeline’s gumbo as highly as I rate Brenda’s gumbo. It’s pretty good nonetheless, and much more interesting than french fries. In the past, I have ordered the jambalaya at Angeline’s, and have been underwhelmed to the point of not even wanting to finish it. Not all restaurants can be all things to all people, but for a decent shrimp po-boy, it’s Berkeley’s best option (just remember about the mustard).

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Shrimp Po-Boy, The Fremont Diner, Sonoma Carneros

The Fremont Diner takes its cue from the lobster rolls of Maine, and features a shrimp po-boy on a hot dog bun. The beer-battered shrimp are much bigger than what’s typical (in addition to being beer-battered), and the toasted bun is far more robust than your average supermarket-variety hot dog bun. All in all, it’s kinda good, but it should only be an option if the Fremont Diner runs out of its Nashville spicy fried chicken. That, or the breakfast menu, is where it’s at.

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Oyster Po-Boy, Bardessono, Yountville

Bardessono’s Sunday Supper is the best dinner deal in the Napa Valley, as I’ve claimed many time prior. As for the po-boy pictured above, it’s too quaint to rate, although I do appreciate the shabby-chic presentation with the brown bag of house-fried potato chips. I should mention that the sandwich above had also arrived without remoulade, which it desperately needed (I sent it back, and it was much-improved). Ah, well, like I said: Not all restaurants can be all things to all people. The real favor, follow my advice: skip this four-bite wonder, and have the killer four-course Sunday Supper instead.

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