Roy Lichtenstein,

I've been rediscovering Berkeley lately, and will report on lots of great local restaurants. Do stay tuned.

Chilled Tomato Soup @ Martini House

I visited the Martini House for its “Killer Tomato” dinner last week, which was the latest installment of the restaurant’s annual tomato-themed event. Each year at the height of heirloom tomato season, chef Todd Humphries assembles a four-course menu based upon the delicious, perennial summer fruit (which, contrary to botanical opinion, was deemed a vegetable by the U.S. Supreme court in 1893).

While the “Killer Tomato” dinner is served on the restaurant’s front lawn, a campy film from the “Attack of the Killer Tomato” series is screened for the Martini House guests. This year, the film was 1991′s highly forgettable “Killer Tomatoes Eat France,” which was the fourth film in the franchise. Fortunately, the food upstages the film each year.

For me, my favorite course of the night was the chilled tomato soup, which was incredibly delicious. I inquired about the ingredients to the soup, and they were appallingly simple, which really demonstrates the utter potency of farm fresh tomatoes during their peak of season. Basically, four ingredients are at work here: freshly pureed tomatoes, sherry vinegar, simple syrup and salt.

I did not ask for the exact proportions of each ingredient, but the deconstruction of the recipe is rather straight-forward to me. Of course, the tomato puree is the foundation for the soup. Sherry vinegar, which is delicious drizzled over cut tomatoes, adds some acidity and expands the depth of flavor. Simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) helps to bring the acidity into balance by adding sweetness, while the salt should be added to taste.

If I had to make an educated guess, I would probably begin with a quart of fresh tomato puree. The importance of using good, farmer’s market tomatoes is tantamount. Supermarket tomatoes will not suffice as a main ingredient. Chop the tomatoes and puree them in a blender, then pass the puree through a sieve to remove the seeds and any excessively large pieces of tomato peel.

Once the tomato puree is finshed, add about a quarter cup of sherry vinegar, perhaps a couple fluid ounces of simple syrup, and a couple teaspoons of salt. At this point, allow your own taste be your guide. If the acidity of the soup is too bracing, add some simple syrup to mitigate the pucker factor. If the soup seems like it is under-seasoned, add some extra salt. Cooking is not rocket science.

In terms of garnishes for the soup, the Martini House added sliced cherry tomatoes, lobster and diced ham. But there is plenty of leeway here as well. Croutons, bacon bits, or basil chiffonade would also do well, as would a splash of extra virgin olive oil.

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