Although I have covered pho somewhat extensively within these pages, rarely has this popular Vietnamese soup ever been readily available here in the Napa Valley. A few months ago, I had the Martini House “family meal” version of pho, a dish which seems to be out of the rotation at the moment. But as much as I do enjoy the Martini House for many things — including the mushroom soup and the Kobe burger — charging more than $7 for a bowl of pho is clearly pushing it (if I recall, the pho at Martini House might have been $13 or $14).

Fortunately, I can always get an honest bowl of of pho in Vallejo at Pho #1 on Sonoma Blvd (located well behind the Burger King, which is the place that you’re most likely to see from the road). The soup at Pho #1 is based upon a terrific beef broth, perfectly seasoned, with just enough grease for character. Like the best pho houses in the Bay Area, Pho #1 serves its soup just a shade below boiling, with the requisite side plate of basil leaves, bean sprouts, sliced jalapeño peppers, and lime wedges.

Many people have their own ritual and routine regarding the pho accoutrements, and I am no different: I always use two jalapeño slices, the three biggest basil leaves, and all of the bean sprouts (the latter provide an added textural element, while they also help to cool the broth). Although I will gladly squeeze lime juice all over a carnitas burrito, for some reason I can do without it in a bowl of pho. For me, pho is more of a wintertime dish, but the cravings can appear at any time. So, although I do not count on Vallejo for much, at least pho is covered. Ramen, however, still requires a drive into San Francisco.