Review: Hana Japanese Restaurant, Rohnert Park, Sonoma County

Hana's Ken Roll: Spicy tuna, atop shrimp tempura and avocado

Although I’ve had some pretty decent sushi right here in the Napa Valley, when I’m facing really pent-up sushi cravings, I’m always compelled to drive over to Hana in Sonoma County. Over the years, I’ve found that when sushi is the objective, it always pays to go all in, especially when the merits of the cuisine rely so heavily upon the sheer quality of the ingredients. In these situations, I’ll gladly go out of my way to put myself in good hands (the fact that I’m willing to drive almost an hour from Napa to Rohnert Park should speak volumes about Hana).

Those who are familiar with the Napa Valley dining scene may point out that chef Ken Tominaga can sometimes be found right here along Highway 29, at Cindy Pawlcyn’s Go Fish Restaurant in St. Helena. It’s true. But I much prefer to take my chances with Hana, where Ken-san always seems much more likely to be on the premises (perhaps it’s just the days of the week that I tend to visit). Regardless, I did happen to spot the venerable chef-owner at Hana this afternoon, which neatly supports my theory.

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At Hana, it always pays to peruse the specials before ordering, and today, one of the highlights of my meal included the crab cake appetizer, which featured two beautifully crispy, panko-crusted crab cakes — without a doubt, the epitome of golden brown — flanked with a tartar sauce and a spicy remoulade. The crab cakes were garnished with a small portion of baby greens, which were perfectly dressed with just the slightest hint of sweetness. This dish was as satisfying as I had hoped, and more.

As for the sushi itself, the classic spider roll was as delicious as any version in Northern California, served with slight wisps of steam wafting from the crispy soft-shelled crab tempura. Meanwhile, the Ken Roll (pictured above) featured a terrific marriage of shrimp tempura, spicy tuna and avocado, while the aptly-named Fat Boy, a tempura amalgam of foie gras, unagi and tomago, was every bit as decadent as it sounds.