A couple months ago, I had the pleasure of tasting the 2005 Lokoya Mount Veeder Cabernet, which was one of the best wines I’ve tasted in quite some time. Unfortunately, this wine carries a $200 price tag, which is why I couldn’t add this wine to my cellar (and also the reason why I didn’t purchase the stunning 2005 Shafer Hillside Select during my visit to that winery). Look, I’m all for economic stimulus, but even during the most prosperous of times, $200 for a bottle of wine is a bit egregious, especially at the retail level. My goal, therefore, was to find those dark, brooding Mount Veeder attributes under a more affordable label.
Last week, a colleague in the wine industry hipped me to Robert Craig Wine Cellars, which produces a series of Napa Cabernets from various mountain appellations. Aside from their Mount Veeder bottling, the winery offers bottlings from Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain, as well as their flagship wine, Affinity, which is sourced from the foothills of Mount George. The Robert Craig tasting room is off the beaten path, at least as far as most wineries go, located just a few blocks north of downtown Napa, with nary a vineyard in sight. But for anyone who is willing to trade great scenery for great wine, Robert Craig is definitely worth a visit.
• The flight began with the obligatory white, the 2007 Robert Craig Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay ($45), which is produced in a crisp, food-friendly style: aged 60% in stainless steel, with zero malolactic fermentation. The wine exhibited tropical flavors, with a nose that reminded me of ripe bananas. The 2006 Robert Craig Affinity ($48) was next, the blend for this particular vintage being 76% CS, 13% MR, 6% CF and 5% PV. With a production that represents about half of the winery’s total output, the Affinity is the flagship of Robert Craig, full-flavored and smooth, and a good wine at its price.
• Among the mountain-appellation Cabernets (all priced at $70), my favorite was the 2005 Robert Craig Mount Veeder, which exhibited the plum, cassis and violet notes that were also prominent in the Lokoya Cabernet. The 2005 Robert Craig Howell Mountain played the raspberry to the Veeder’s blackberry, not as dark in flavor profile, but lush nonetheless. The 2005 Spring Mountain Cabernet was reminiscent of the Howell Mountain bottling, but with less of a spicy element on the finish. All three of these Cabernets were noteworthy wines.
• The 2006 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Zinfandel ($50) was next, and presented an admirable version of Zinfandel. The fruit is sourced from Black Sears Estate, which at 2400 feet, is the highest vineyard in the Howell Mountain appellation. The tasting concluded with the 2006 Robert Craig Mt. George Cuveé ($30), a blend that is roughly two parts Cabernet to one part Cabernet Franc. Though perhaps a bit lighter than other Napa Bordeaux at this price point (such as the Newton Claret or the Chappellet Mountain Cuveé), the Mt. George Cuveé offered decent enough value.
